2 newbies and a garage sale go kart (Clutch question)

[Phoenixs4r]

Friend of mine picked up a couple of go karts for cheap at a garage sale. 2 are not put together, the 3rd we tried to figure out how to start yesterday. We were given a starter box, but the end seems to have been broken off at the clutch + the sprocket is shot.

I see a lot of clutches that range from $50-$300 online, and want to figure out how to purchase the correct one. We were told the engine is a "Yamaha 80" I did see a Yamaha sticker on the motor, however couldn't find any other identifying markings. The sprocket appeared to have 11 teeth before they were ground down.

Could you guys take a look at the pictures taken and point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

 

[John551]

Hey, welcome to the forum. The engine is a KT100, maybe the 80 is the amount of teeth on the axle sprocket. There are two different types of clutches; a dry clutch and a wet clutch. I'm not certain, but I believe you have a wet clutch and it has a cover (the teeth or "sprocket" you are describing) that can go over them. Don't quote me on that because I am not an expert on clutches, just wait for someone who knows more about this subject. As for starting the motor, if you could take some pictures of the starter and the shaft (where you insert the starter), I'm sure that would help. Also, take some pictures of the kart, we're always interested .

 

[OzFab]

It's extremely possible that "80" refers to the capacity of the engine (as in 80cc); either someone messed up the size or it is, in fact, a yamaha 80...

That clutch is toast, for a number of reasons:
1. teeth are non existant
2. the front bell has been welded to the rear base, locking the clutch...

If it still had teeth, you wouldn't need the starter, just get someone to push it & it would start because the rear axle is locked to the engine... the downside is, as soon as the kart stops, so does the engine...

As for what to replace it with, that's not my area as I primarily deal with 4 stroke engines & 2 strokes are a totally different animal (2 strokes produce less torque but hace a much higher RPM range); you may be able to use a simple maxtorque clutch but, somehow, I don't think so...

Welcome to the forum

 

[John551]

I am not sure the clutch is fried, but I figured out that it is a wet clutch, hope someone can chime in. Below is a picture of what the actual clutch and "cover" with the teeth look like, the clutch looks very similar to yours. On a side note, I am 100% sure the engine is a KT100, and you probably will need gaskets if it has been sitting. The gas to oil ratio is 20:1.

 

[Phoenixs4r]

Thank you for all the replies and the warm welcome! I really appreciate the input. Supposedly, another friend has gone through the engine and replaced the seals, but not 100% sure. The oil ration will definitely help lol.

We thought those welds didn't belong, so technically speaking if we found a new cover with intact teeth we could push start it? Was was the purpose of welding the clutch? To better handle the power? I think we'd rather have it idle, i don't forsee real racing in our future, just something to mess around with, so I'll google some wet clutch assemblies. From what I can tell I just need to be sure of the shaft diameter? and obviously the tooth count

Here is the kart:



EDIT: I didn't realize the pictures were coming out so small, I can host them larger if it helps.

 

[John551]

Unfortunately, with clutch, you also need a starter. There's a WTB section in ekartingnews where I'm sure someone would get rid of a cheap starter for $30-$60. To push start it, it would have to be direct drive, which means when you stop, it turns off (not worth it).

 

[Phoenixs4r]

Ya, he has two starters. I'd rather replace the entire thing so it's not direct drive to be honest. The clutch that looks very similar is $315 omg lol

 

[OzFab]

We thought those welds didn't belong, so technically speaking if we found a new cover with intact teeth we could push start it?

Possibly but, by the time you cut the old bell off, then reweld the new one, it may be easier to replace the entire clutch...

Was was the purpose of welding the clutch? To better handle the power?

Possible because it didn't work correctly...

I'll google some wet clutch assemblies.

NO! For your application, you want a dry clutch...

EDIT: I didn't realize the pictures were coming out so small, I can host them larger if it helps.

Here are instructions on how to post pics direct to the forum...

 

[Phoenixs4r]

Gotcha, thanks!