1996 YZ125 into KGB Shifter kart

[Kshannon17]

I checked and The rear is 23 and I don't have a front sprocket yet. The one for the bike is bigger and didn't fit with the smaller chain.
That single inlet pump is way cheaper than the pump around system, I was hoping I could avoid the pricier one- thank you.
This might be a dumb question but how do these work without a battery or anything?

 

[Kshannon17]

The rear sprocket has 23 teeth and i dont have a front sprocket yet but i think the options on sharkshifter are 14 thru 19.
I just dont know which is best-
I was hoping to hear the good new about not having to buy the more expensive pump
After the welder gets me the mount back on tuesday all i have left to do is
Find a spot for the radiators
Install the pump and sprocket once i get them in mail
fix the leaking rear tire(seems to be leaking along the rim and not a hole in the rubber)
install the j shifter
and put the carb back on
mount the exhaust

sorry for not posting pictures as quick as i should, i will get on it though
Thank you again for your quick replies, i really do appreciate it.

 

[anderkart]

I checked and The rear is 23 and I don't have a front sprocket yet. The one for the bike is bigger and didn't fit with the smaller chain.
That single inlet pump is way cheaper than the pump around system, I was hoping I could avoid the pricier one- thank you.
This might be a dumb question but how do these work without a battery or anything?

Yeah the pump around systems are just for wealthy racers that want just a little more hp from their engines. But I'd suggest you order the large round Mikuni pulse pump that has 1 inlet & 2 outlets. If you want you could try it without the return line and see if your carb floods or not. Then If it floods, instal the return line.

These pulse fuel pumps work off a vacuum-hose connected to your intake manifold (reed-cage).
Or as an option, connected to a fitting you'd need to instal in your engines crankcase.
If your reedcage doesn't already have a 1/4" fitting installed, I'd suggest you instal one in it.

Check out these 2 videos for lots more info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2bRbaph_Ys

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKWkLM-3nXI

The tool the guy in the 2nd video doesn't know the name of, is a 'tap' made for tapping out 1/4" MIP threads that fit the threads of the pulse fitting he's installing in his reedcage.

The rear sprocket has 23 teeth and i dont have a front sprocket yet but i think the options on sharkshifter are 14 thru 19.
I just dont know which is best-
I was hoping to hear the good new about not having to buy the more expensive pump
After the welder gets me the mount back on tuesday all i have left to do is
Find a spot for the radiators
Install the pump and sprocket once i get them in mail
fix the leaking rear tire(seems to be leaking along the rim and not a hole in the rubber)
install the j shifter
and put the carb back on
mount the exhaust

sorry for not posting pictures as quick as i should, i will get on it though
Thank you again for your quick replies, i really do appreciate it.

I'd order the 16-tooth counter sprocket for your engine when using a 23 tooth axle sprocket. But make sure it, and your axle sprocket are made fore the same pitch chain. (I've posted a chart with info about that below)

Sounds like your tire has a bead-leak, sometimes you can just break the tire loose from the bead, clean everything up and re-inflate to fix those, or sometimes not...

I havent needed to see any pics so far.

Yer welcome

You can left-click on this chart to view a larger image.

 

[Kshannon17]

Ok i placed the order for the Mikuni Duel Outlet Round Fuel pump and a front sprocket 16 tooth. I will buy a drill bit, a tap, and that fitting from home depot tomorrow while at work. If I buy a 1/4" fitting do i drill a 7/16" hole? Is drilling the hole in the reed cage safe to do? it wont mess anything up with the fuel?
I ordered them from sharkshifter, are they pretty good?
Thanks again.

 

[anderkart]

Cool, make sure you order like 15 feet of clear 1/4" fuel line from a racekart shop too. You can usually buy it tinted to several colors, but you'll really appreciate having transparent fuel line so you can always see if your getting fuel to the carb or not. You should also order a few in-line fuel filters and pick up a small bag of mini-zip-ties to use as hose clamps on every single hose connection.

________

Your 16/23 gearing combination should give you somewhere between a 55 to 75mph top speed with 11" rear tires. It just depends on if your engine has been modded for higher rpm and how well its tuned/running. But It'll prolly be SCARY-fast with neck snapping acceleration even if your engine is nearly wore out and/or running poorly!

Will you be using the stock chamber? Lots of shifterkart guys end up cutting the motocross pipe into sections, then turn/re-position those sections before re-welding back together. This way the pipe is still tuned, but better fits the kart...

________


Yep, you use a 7/16" drill bit for tapping 1/4" MIP threads, but you'll probably want to start your hole out drilling a pilot-hole with a smaller bit like a 1/4", then use a 3/8", then use your 7/16" bit. I've found using graduated sizes like this usually works out better than staring out with a larger sized drill bit like a 7/16".

Installing a pulse fitting in your reed cage wont compromise its strength, but I'd try to make the fitting fit flush on the inside so it wont disturb the smooth air/fuel flow. I'd also pick up a couple jam-nuts and a thin stainless steel flat washer to screw on the 1/4" barbed pulse fitting before installing. Then I'd coat the fittings threads with red-loctite, and only screw the fitting in just far enough to be flush with the inside, then tighten the first jam nut/with the washer up against the reedcage. Then finally tighten the second jam-nut up against the inner-nut using 2-wrenches to lock the nuts against each other.

If everything is coated with that red locktite, It should make a very good seal and never rattle loose. Just make sure you dont over-tighten anything and strip the threads... Take it easy, Its brass, the locktite will really help out here!

________

Sharkshifters is cool because they stock most everything you'd ever need, but you can sometimes save lots of money by shopping around other on-line racekart shops for lower prices. (make sure you compare shipping prices too, that can make some bargain prices not such a great deal after all...)

Here's a few others you could check out:

http://www.out2win.com/catalog/index.html
http://www.kartpartsstore.net/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.cometkartsales.com/
http://www.tsracing.com/store/Directory.cfm?DID=7
http://www.apskarting.com/
http://www.bmikarts.com/
http://www.russellkarting.com/
http://www.accelerationkarting.com/partsandaccessories.aspx

These are good sources for used racekart parts:
http://www.seventh-gear.com/store/index.php
http://karting.4cycle.com/forumdisplay.php?f=54
http://kartoramainc.com/Used_Karts.html

If you use the correct terminology in the ebay search window, you can find smokin deals on lots of racekart parts there too...

 

[Kshannon17]

I found a local kart store today but they were pretty expensive. They had a ton of karts on the showroom floor and parts for EVERYTHING.
I will just get all the tools from home depot like the bit, the tap, and the valve. I think i would have to drill on the left side of the reed cage, but im not sure how that would work with the setup as a whole.
Is there any way to drill through the rubber boot?
I was looking at the motor and there is some kind of valve coming off of the case, not sure if it is a vacuum line or a let off valve, there was just a hose connected to it. I uploaded some pictures of it. Thank you for those links, I should be more patient before i pay full price

 

[Kshannon17]

That hose on the OEM replacements website for that model and year is called
2: CONNECTOR,SCTN PPE
(5NX1)

 

[Kshannon17]

Here are some pictures of the finished mount on the kart. Feels solid, but still have more tweaking to do. l have to find a better way to mount the radiator and also have to drill the hole in the reed cage.

 

[Kshannon17]

Here is the hole that i drilled and tapped into the reed cage. Just need some Loctite and a couple nuts to keep the inside smooth. I ran it at kind of a weird angle so it points straight into the exhaust pipe but i think ill just wrap it in tin foil or some other heat protecting material.
I have the motor mounted to the chassis, the sprocket in place on both with the chain in between, but i couldnt get the motor to start.
I plugged the hole that i drilled because i am not ready to install the pump yet, connected the gas tank, radiators, put oil in it, grounded the ignition coil so i could see spark, kicked her over and over, gave it some gas, turned the choke on and off several times and still nothing.
Motor has good compression, and everything seems perfectly intact, but the gas seems to be running through the carb and straight out of the letoff hose onto the ground. Im not sure what it could be. Any ideas? Thank you for the help

 

[Kshannon17]

How far away from my motor can i run the radiator? There is no room for the radiator on front of the motor and the closest place is across the seat, between 1 and 2 feet away. If i try to make the hose level, will this be ok?

 

[Kshannon17]

Even though i was real nervous for it to actually happen, i got the motor to turn over. Took the air filter off, squirted some gas into the carb, gave it full throttle and kicked 10-15 times and she ran great! Got a little oil leaking from the shift lever tho
Now i just need to find a place to mount the radiators, ignition, and fuel pump.

 

[anderkart]

Sorry Ksh, I've been gone a few days, I'll try to post in the morning.

 

[anderkart]

I found a local kart store today but they were pretty expensive. They had a ton of karts on the showroom floor and parts for EVERYTHING.
I will just get all the tools from home depot like the bit, the tap, and the valve. I think i would have to drill on the left side of the reed cage, but im not sure how that would work with the setup as a whole.
Is there any way to drill through the rubber boot?
I was looking at the motor and there is some kind of valve coming off of the case, not sure if it is a vacuum line or a let off valve, there was just a hose connected to it. I uploaded some pictures of it. Thank you for those links, I should be more patient before i pay full price

You probably could have glued some type of fitting in the rubber carb-boot, but it might have rattled loose/out so...

That ('valve coming off of the case, not sure if it is a vacuum line or a let off valve, there was just a hose connected to it')
Is probably your engine breather hose. If so, you cant use that to drive a pulse pump because then your engine couldnt breath.

Yeah It pays to shop around for better prices, as long as your still getting high-quality parts.

Here are some pictures of the finished mount on the kart. Feels solid, but still have more tweaking to do. l have to find a better way to mount the radiator and also have to drill the hole in the reed cage.

I'm no big expert at metal fabrication, but I'm thinking you could add some simple braces to your motor-mount to make it much-much stronger. I think an X-brace welded in-between those uprights would give your motor mounts way more lateral support. I'm talking an X-brace between the two front brackets, and another X between the 2 rear uprights.

Here is the hole that i drilled and tapped into the reed cage. Just need some Loctite and a couple nuts to keep the inside smooth. I ran it at kind of a weird angle so it points straight into the exhaust pipe but i think ill just wrap it in tin foil or some other heat protecting material.
I have the motor mounted to the chassis, the sprocket in place on both with the chain in between, but i couldnt get the motor to start.
I plugged the hole that i drilled because i am not ready to install the pump yet, connected the gas tank, radiators, put oil in it, grounded the ignition coil so i could see spark, kicked her over and over, gave it some gas, turned the choke on and off several times and still nothing.
Motor has good compression, and everything seems perfectly intact, but the gas seems to be running through the carb and straight out of the letoff hose onto the ground. Im not sure what it could be. Any ideas? Thank you for the help

Yeah it looks like you did a good job installing your pulse fitting in the reedcage.

Aluminum foil is a good Idea, but you could also go to a good auto parts store (like Napa) and ask if they have any type of fuel-resistant 1/4" hose that's rated for use in high heat areas. (like hose for a vacuum-servo valve mounted to a cars exhaust manifold) Then use that type of hose as your pulse line near your chamber.

If fuel was running out of your carb, your carbs Needle & Seat valve might have been stuck open. Either from old gas varnish, or dirt, or It could be defective.

Even though i was real nervous for it to actually happen, i got the motor to turn over. Took the air filter off, squirted some gas into the carb, gave it full throttle and kicked 10-15 times and she ran great! Got a little oil leaking from the shift lever tho
Now i just need to find a place to mount the radiators, ignition, and fuel pump.

Cool, good job getting it running

You'll find LOTS of shifterkart pics in this google Image search link:
http://www.google.com/search?q=shif...Hq9ASG5IHAAg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=556
If you see any pics that look like they might help you, click on the pic to view a larger image and possibly get some Info.

If its any help, here's how racekart radiators are usually mounted:

 

[anderkart]

Kshannon17, I've moved your thread to this section of our forum.

You didnt do anything wrong when originally posting it where you did, but lots more guys will find your cool thread here, and be able to offer helpful advice

 

[Kshannon17]

I'm sorry I haven't posted in so long! Just busy with work and school with tests and stuff, I will continue to post though! I'll update you more tonight

 

[Kshannon17]

ok, i do apologize about the long wait, its just a little tough to update with going to school/work full time.
First off, i was wondering if anybody knows anything about these KGB karts? Google doesnt have much to offer for these.. lol How much would the kart be worth? Are they reliable?
I have not made much progress on the kart after getting it started, but i have been thinking alot about the setup and how its going to work. The guy a couple units down in my apartment said that radiator hose was not needed, but i could just get the same size diameter of standard heater hose and it would be way cheaper. I think i am going to run the hose from the motor behind the seat and the other hose underneath the seat.
Do i run the vacuum hose off the reed cage to the single inlet on the underside of the pump?
The throttle cable that came with the bike isnt quite long enough to reach to the foot pedal, so im thinking i will just buy some cable that size and try to tie them together or something.
I'm getting excited for this thing to work, ive been looking at big empty parking lots to tear up while i test it, but its hard when i live in a city with over 300,000 people
Plus i got the cops called on me for riding my rmz in main streets... apparently people dont like that.
Anyway, i will do more work tomorrow afternoon and let you know my progress so far.

 

[Kshannon17]

The fuel pump works! plus there were holes drilled in the seat from the same pump from whoever had it before me! The setup seems to be working great. It starts, idles and revs and you can see gas moving through the system! The return line back to the gas tank is even functioning like it should! Got the radiator hose and ran it behind the seat, and underneath the seat. Just have to mount it all up still and find a permanent spot.

I was messing with the brakes a little and found that depressing the pedal doesnt actually move the brake pads at all. I took the whole caliper apart and removed the pistons (which were way harder to remove from the brake cylinder than they should have been). The seals were full of dried up plasticky gunk. That must be the old brake fluid dried up that kept them from moving.

Almost ready to get her up and running! motor mounts a little tricky, but i WILL get her straight and tight

 

[anderkart]

KGB racekarts are very high-quality/reliable, and still win lots of pro-level kart races around the whole world.

Yours is an older (late-1990's/early 2000-era) model, It looks like it has a 40mm. axle and no front brakes. So that means it was probably intended for use in the 100cc./2-cycle, 125cc./TAG, or the 80cc. shifterkart race classes. All semi-modern 125cc. shifter racekart chassis brands would would have came with front brakes as standard equipment, because they're so dam fast you trully need-em to stay alive...

I think your kart was prolly worth around $500 as a complete/used rolling chassis, and then will be worth somewhere in the $1200 to $2000 range when completed/running with a cleanly-installed 125cc. motocross engine AND front brakes. Without front brakes, the strict rules at many racelkart tracks wouldnt even alow it on the track for practice sessions, let alone to compete in races...

Heater hose should work fine, just make absolutely sure you completely bleed all the air out of your cooling system so you dont burn that engine up! The radiator in the dirt bike was elevated up a little higher than the engine, so bleeding all the air-pockets out wasnt so critical... Make sure your pressure/water-pump side is connected to the top fitting of your radiator, and also make dam sure your coolant is actually circulating too!

You could extend your throttle cable with a simple cable-clamp/stop,
like the one on this page:--> http://www.out2win.com/catalog/cables.html#fittings

Yes, it can be very dificult to find cool riding places (the cops wont bust) for racekarts. That's one of the reasons most guys end up racing at a kart track. Another big reason is: Its a whole-lot more fun riding/racing karts against others. If your like me, riding around by yourself will eventually get very boring, no mater how fast your kart is...

Your Caliper most-likely had that 'full of dried up plasticky gunk' simply because someone used the wrong type of brake fluid. The rubber seals in your kart were designed for use with DOT-5 brake fluid.

Lots of times guys dont realise this and ad DOT-3 (or 4) type brake fluid, and this doesnt always mix with DOT-5. After you get that caliper cleaned up and reassembled: go buy a bottle of any brand DOT-5 brake fluid you can find, and completely flush/bleed-out the system with that!

 

[Kshannon17]

Here are some pictures of the pump, fuel lines setup. I will reply more later tonight

 

[jdmkid]

nice progress man! mind telling me where you go the fuel pump? or anywhere i could get a good, used or new one for not too much moola? thanks, its for a cr80 btw.