B.M.800
TheBeal.
Hows the tire size change effect the gearing? How bout the gas mileage?
Looks cool though!
Looks cool though!
1987 Subaru GL Turbo beater/wheeler
- Thread starter newrider3
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I've heard up to 31" tires are livable with the N/A engine, so I think 27"ers will be fine with the turbo mill. If I drop to 20mpg I can't say I'd even care, that's still double what my pickup gets. Speedometer will probably be way off also, but I'm kind of used to it with my truck.
brandongeiger2
New member
Do the front wheels scrub at all? When my buddy lifted his cherokee he had to cut the fenders for clearance im aware its a very different machine but just curious.
OzFab
Well-known member
I wanna know how you managed to get six stud rims onto 4 stud hubs.
Rolling guard lips is a pretty simple operation but, I've never used a cutoff wheel
Rolling guard lips is a pretty simple operation but, I've never used a cutoff wheel
The spacing of many 6-lug wheels is the same spacing as the Subaru 4-lug pattern. I took one of the hubs, and knocked two opposing studs out. Then I bolted the hub up to a wheel with the remaining two studs, and used it as a pattern to drill two new lug holes, basically converting it into a universal wheel.
Some cutting was needed rather than rolling because the clearance issue wasn't at the upper lip, but at the two bottom corners of the front fenders, and the front bottom corners of the rear wheel openings.
I'll get pics of both of these mods whenever I'm out there next, keep forgetting.
Some cutting was needed rather than rolling because the clearance issue wasn't at the upper lip, but at the two bottom corners of the front fenders, and the front bottom corners of the rear wheel openings.
I'll get pics of both of these mods whenever I'm out there next, keep forgetting.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
That thing looks awesome. Props if you can figure out how to put stacks on that
Funny you say that, i had a 96 subaru wagon with a single custom stack. also had 30" mud tires. Not a road rig, got it free as a totaled car, made the same type of lift newrider did and used it as a wheeling rig.
30s were tough on the clutch, but that was with the newer subaru platform, how does yours feel with those 235s? i assume yours is geared lower stock.
I never drove it with the bologna skin tires, but it feels great cruising around on the 235's. It's a pretty quick little car, at least compared to my pickup. Bombed it around a little on the ditch trail behind my friend's property too, and it did great. Should be perfect for the fire roads and unimproved trails up in the mountains.
porsche930dude
New member
i like it! those are **** good cars
OzFab
Well-known member
I hope you mean you drilled new holes in the wheels & not the stud plates/hubs
buddyochoa
Not Senior Yet
He did mention turning them into universal wheels, which would lead me to believe thats where the holes are.
Doc Sprocket
*********
OzFab
Well-known member
Ok, ok, I get it. 
In all my years in the auto industry, it's just not something I've ever seen before
In all my years in the auto industry, it's just not something I've ever seen before
Rustydog2010
NZ Nutta :|
What kind of boost does it run? Crank it right up!
brandongeiger2
New member
Probably like 8psi at the most id assume haha its surprising the gauge goes to 15
crazzywolfie
New member
that thing looks pretty cool. i can't believe you drive it on the road. i found some more idea's for it but i don't know if they are street legal
OzFab
Well-known member
A little wider is better in a way, especially now with the big wheels. At least you know if the bumper hits something it's gonna clear the wheels whereas, if it was narrower, you may damage your wheels/steering
I had a little fun with this thing yesterday-in the way that nearly losing a wheel on the interstate is fun. I'd been getting a worsening noise from my driver's side front end that I thought was the CV axle eating itself (I had the same sound from a bad passenger CV previously) so I was planning to replace it when I got home for fall break. I managed to make it half way home before I started to get some drag from that front wheel, the car would jerk almost out of the lane when I would hit the gas or let off and engine brake. Finally I pulled over at a truck stop, and noticed something was now grinding from the driver's front wheel. Got out and saw this:
Apparently I lost the cotter pin from the hub nut, and never noticed (for several weeks!) as the nut backed off and let the hub slide out.
If you look at the top corner of the caliper, you can see the little slot that the rotor had been milling away into it, as well as some discoloration from the heat being generated from metal on metal contact. Aside from this, there's no other damage. I didn't have any tools with me in this car, so I had to borrow a pair of slip joint pliers from a trucker to get the hub pressed back into place and the nut tightened. I managed to find an old quick release pin in a can of hardware from another project to get it pinned temporarily to make it the rest of the way home. As soon as I got back, I threw some blue Loctite on the nut, tightened it down and put a new cotter in it.
But that's not it.
That adventure was yesterday. Today, I went for maybe a 15 mile drive to my buddy's house, and I was telling him this story and got to looking at the hub nut, and it was loosening again! We pulled the nut, and this is all that was left of the brand new cotter:
What. The. ****.
This time we busted out the red Loctite and the torque wrench and ran it down to around 150 ft/lb. Then we dug around for a grade 8 bolt that fit the cotter hole and castle nut, and put it in along with a nyloc nut douched with Loctite for good measure.
If it fails again, I'm either going for the green Loctite, or I'm gonna stick weld the ***** together and never take it apart again.
Moral of this story is: don't ignore those noises, even if you think you know what they are; and carry tools in all of your vehicles (as soon as I got home yesterday I filled a spare box with extra tools from home and some new cheapies from Harbl Freight, along with bailing wire, zipties, electrical tape, etc).
Apparently I lost the cotter pin from the hub nut, and never noticed (for several weeks!) as the nut backed off and let the hub slide out.
If you look at the top corner of the caliper, you can see the little slot that the rotor had been milling away into it, as well as some discoloration from the heat being generated from metal on metal contact. Aside from this, there's no other damage. I didn't have any tools with me in this car, so I had to borrow a pair of slip joint pliers from a trucker to get the hub pressed back into place and the nut tightened. I managed to find an old quick release pin in a can of hardware from another project to get it pinned temporarily to make it the rest of the way home. As soon as I got back, I threw some blue Loctite on the nut, tightened it down and put a new cotter in it.
But that's not it.
That adventure was yesterday. Today, I went for maybe a 15 mile drive to my buddy's house, and I was telling him this story and got to looking at the hub nut, and it was loosening again! We pulled the nut, and this is all that was left of the brand new cotter:
What. The. ****.
This time we busted out the red Loctite and the torque wrench and ran it down to around 150 ft/lb. Then we dug around for a grade 8 bolt that fit the cotter hole and castle nut, and put it in along with a nyloc nut douched with Loctite for good measure.
If it fails again, I'm either going for the green Loctite, or I'm gonna stick weld the ***** together and never take it apart again.
Moral of this story is: don't ignore those noises, even if you think you know what they are; and carry tools in all of your vehicles (as soon as I got home yesterday I filled a spare box with extra tools from home and some new cheapies from Harbl Freight, along with bailing wire, zipties, electrical tape, etc).
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