1920s Racer Inspired Kart

[JR74Ford]

Cheers guys, the wood is 3mm MDF and 11mm marine ply. I was going to put foam in between the rib sections, shape it and then fiberglass the lot. How ever I am struggling to get my hands on a suitable foam that is sandable. Does anyone have any ideas?

The other option I just started to consider today is to use very thin strips of wood and strip plank it then fiberglass over. Say 2mm x 20mm. I have only allowed 4mm for the fiberglass as the ribbed section is 3mm smaller all around than the rest of the body which will get one layer of glass also.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers John

 

[Brian Hadden]

Expandable foam in a can is sandable.

 

[Highland doc]

You could try florist's foam

 

[Denny]

Last night I stumbled on your build on the Cyclekart club forum. There is good information on there on how to go about it, I remember spray can foam is not a good option though. I myself would go the thin plank method and then glass over it. Keep up the good work.

Denny

 

[JR74Ford]

I ended up going down the strip planking road... It's taking a very long time as I have to wait for the glue to dry between strips. At the very back I will shape and attach a solid piece of wood.

 

[landuse]

Once again....awesome work.

 

[Denny]

I've been following you at the Cyclekart Club. It looks fantastic!

Denny

 

[firemanjim]

Very awesome build indeed..... !
One question..... Where do you get the springs for the front end and what are the dimensions (length - width) and spring rating?

Ok, so it was 3 questions.....

 

[JR74Ford]

Cheers guys. I got the springs from here http://www.springs.co.nz
It probably isn't much use to you as its on the other side of the world. They were really helpful though, they make them to what ever specifications you like and only cost $26NZ a side so about $20US. I'm sure there will be an equivalent place near you.
Another option is horse buggy seat springs as used my many of the karts here: http://www.cyclekartclub.com/phorum/list.php?2

My springs are 280mm eye to eye by 30mm wide. I'm not sure of the spring rate. I just guessed the completed weight and they made them to suit.

Hope this helps.

Cheers. John.

 

[JR74Ford]

I have been slowly chipping away at this.
Here is the inspiration car again.











Next I think I'll work on the steering. It's a bit slow going at the moment with having a baby a few weeks ago.

 

[chancer]

Nice work this thing is gonna be beautiful. Congrats on the new baby. (Yes the human one not the Kart)

 

[JR74Ford]

Progress slowed for a while, I'm getting back in to this now though. We put new tyres on it and my son and I started it up for the first time a couple of days ago.

https://youtu.be/i_MqCF5VvJQ
Next will be fiberglassing over the front two thirds.

 

[Zombient]

That's pretty sweet.

 

[Kelly Wood]

I'm liking that man. Build on.

 

[landuse]

That looks so sweet!! Good workmanship

 

[X-Shark]

I've just come to the table. [1st post]

I really like your project. It has a lot of the makings of some of the stuff I do.

But I can steer you on the foam and fiberglass. I have a pretty fair amount of experience with the stuff.... along with vacuum bagging it.

Devinacell or Kledgecell is the foam you want. With your nice buck that you made , some clamps and a heat gun you can even form it. Then you glass over that. I've used a LOT of Epoxy resign.... and several different brands as well.

Most of the stuff I do today is Polyester laminating resign.

I don't want to hijack your thread, but I'm going to throw these pix's up as a example as to what you can do.

The material [green] is 3/8in Divenacell.

And it got trimmed and glassed to become a instrument pod on a boat I built.

Here's the whole build if your interested?

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/



I do have a question on cooling...... isn't that a air cooled motor?

I'm afraid it will get to hot and do a melt down..... no?

I have done a melt down with a Chinese generator that was a Honda knock off.

 

[JR74Ford]

Thanks x-shark
I love the work you have done!! Awesome!
I ended up aborting the foam idea and strip planked the buck (I suspect you may have missed the second page of my build?).

I am planning on fiberglassing the rest of the body before I paint it. Do you have any advice on what weight cloth to use? And can you recommend a type of resin? Here in New Zealand the west system is the most available/common though it is very expensive.
I am considering trying to glass over the tail cone too though I will only do this if I can get a clear Finnish? Do you think this is possible? West system have a product they claim has a clear finish. At the very least I will give it a coat of clear resin.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers
John

---------- Post added at 07:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:45 PM ----------

Oh and with the engine heat issue, I am hoping that if the air flow through the nose of the kart is directed over the engine by making the only path for the air to escape right under the engine and by using a small electric fan it will stay cool... If not ill have to come up with plan B, perhaps additional vents.... not sure..

 

[supermanotorious]

this is an amazing build!

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

Very nice, I've never seen a boat tail roadster kart. I'm very well versed in fiberglass ( used to make custom one off parts for a living ) if there's anything you're not sure about I'd be glad to help in any way I can.

 

[X-Shark]

Hey John....

I see your wanting to clear it. West System is popular..... It's popular because of it instructions and availability. Most people that just start in this stuff use it.

Then they figure out easier to use and cheaper products.

The glass is supposed to give the surface protection. But with all those radical curves...I'd stick to no heavier than 6oz cloth. That will not afford a Lot of protection, but it will be ok.

I've used West System.... It's neat on paper. I don't like the short pot life times on it.

I actually use a product from US composites.... Their 2 to 1. But I haven't cleared it.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

I'd be more inclined to point you toward System Three's Clear Coat.
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Clear-Coat-c14.htm

All those pumps that West System has makes it seem easy... and it's not bad at first.

BUT! the cost of the pumps.....The fact that they get gummed up after sitting for a while I don't like them. A 5 to 1 mix is a LOT more critical to have exact.

Don't get me wrong....A 2 to 1 is also.....In fact all epoxy mixes should be adhered to for mix ratios.

2 things screw up a epoxy mix..... Not adding the 2 parts correctly and not enough stirring....I literately stir my stuff for 3mins.

Now 2 to 1 mixes are the most easy to pour in a cup, as the graduated containers have the proper increments on them.

I use a sharpie marker to highlight the marks.

Now.....The final finish.

Awlgrip paints [ #1 in the boat industry] makes a Clear epoxy primer.

It's Awlgrip 545 Clear.
http://www.awlgrip.com/products/primers/545-epoxy-primer.aspx

Once your epoxy resign is sanded this can be sprayed and block sanded. When that is all slick.... No finer than 400gt wet or 220gt on a DA sander.

Then you can topcoat it with Clear Awlgrip.

This is how the High End " Bristol" wood work is done on yachts. Like the extreme wood fighting chairs.

http://www.murrayproducts.com/sportsfishing-html/fight_chairs.html

The system I described will give you a finish to behold... It will look a foot deep and magnify the grain.......... and any wood flaws too. LOL