18hp twin - rigid frame (for now) - two seater

[Kentguy13]

I had a thread going in the question area, but figured I'd post the build pictures here, it just seems like a more suitable place.

Started with my donor cart: I bought this frame off craigslist for $25, most of the other parts are from http://www.bmikarts.com. With the exception of the seat, it is from http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1100/. Oh, and the tires and rims were off the old family golf cart. I wish I wouldn't have sold the rest... I sure could use some parts off it now.

After I bought $220 worth of square tube steel, I built a wood jig so my cart will be somewhat square. Received the steel 9-3-10

Next, I started on the frame. I used 2"x2" tube for the main rails and front/rear bumpers.

The front axle is (2) 1"x1" welded together. I do intend on adding some more support to this area once the steering is connected.

That is pretty much the end of build day #1. First day of build was 09-16-10.

 

[Kentguy13]

Build Day #2 & 3

On 09-18-10 I started on the engine mount. I plan on using an 18hp Briggs & Stratton twin from an old lawn tractor. It runs great! If your staring at my engine thinking...."that 20 series isn't going to work with that thing", well then your absolutely right! haha. I have removed it and have a 40 series coming (hopefully). Also, as of today, the engine mount is not welded to the frame. I'm waiting for the clutch before I tach it in.


On 09-19-10 I started tinkering with the steering. I want to use the rack and pinion from the mid 80's EZ-go gas golf cart that I parted out.... but its been giving me trouble since day one. In the following pictures you see it is mounted, however that location did not work with where I have the seats so I moved it. The second location, not pictured, worked great with the seat position, but blocked my pedal position... so I moved it again. Currently, the column is not mounted, but I have a pretty good idea how to mount it now.

 

[Kentguy13]

Added Pedals and started on roll cage

Today, 10-05-10, I was hoping to get my new jack shaft from the UPS guy... but never came, so I started with pedal location and adding more framing to add a support for the steering column and roll cage. The frame is not outrageously heavy yet, but I definitely bought a thicker tubing than I really needed. Good to know, for my next one will be lighter.

 

[Hendersonjk]

looking pretty sturdy is it gonna be wide enough for two?

 

[Stratogeezer]

Niiiiiice!

Kentguy - VERY cool design. I love the twin seat arrangement.

I think you'll be happy with the 40 series.

Let me know how the EZ-GO steering unit works - I was thinking that may be a good upgrade for my kart too.

Keep the pictures coming and post a video or two as the project progresses. Great work so far.

 

[motor_head]

engine is sort of high.
you could mount the driven pulley behind the engine so the engine can be mounted lower

 

[Randy]

Pedal Mount Suggestion

When I looked at the front hoop for a roll bar I wondered if you mounted your pedals from that.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/340-3950/10002/-1?parentProductId=744524

You could cut or disasemble the bracket. I had these on an old race race car...It was my first go kart 1990 Ford Festiva DM SCCA.

If you didnt want to run front and rear brakes you could set up either side to brake differently depending on driving conditions or weight.

I have a set if you wanted them with the MC. I would be happy to trade for parts to finish my project.

 

[Kentguy13]

looking pretty sturdy is it gonna be wide enough for two?

Yes.... hence the two seats.

 

[Kentguy13]

engine is sort of high.
you could mount the driven pulley behind the engine so the engine can be mounted lower

I've been kicking around the idea of lowering the engine. With the 20 series TC that is on it now I put the driven under it so I could use a shorter belt. I intend on mounting the 40 series in the same location, but there is still extra room between the jackshaft and the axle that I can lower the mount a few more inches. I like the look of it sitting a little higher, but I understand the consequences of a high CG. I also need to mount the gas tank somewhere back there... so I'll probably shorten the mount to lower the engine, and stick a tank above it and attached it to the roll cage when I get around to building it.

 

[Kentguy13]

Randy - Those are some cool pedals, and if I didn't have mine mounted already I would have considered mounting them like that. I'll keep the idea in mind for my next project. Thanks!

 

[Kentguy13]

Steering column - rack and pinion

I managed to find a few hours today... and fabricated a bracket to mount the EZ-GO steering column and gear box. My thoughts on attaching the whole system will include a torque tube to connect the gear box to the tie-rods. I may even use an old jack shaft and bearings I had laying around as the torque tube. Any thoughts??



This is the old jack shaft I mentioned. I need a press to remove the old driven unit. I'm still researching that piece, it came with an old cart I have, I bought it without a motor, so no driver to match. The belt size is 1-1/8" top width (by my measurement).

 

[Kentguy13]

I found about 3 hours today to work on the front of my buggy/cart. Unfortunately I ran out of welding wire as soon as I started, so I had to take about a half hour and fun to the hardware store for some more. This time I bought 2 reels, so next time I have a spare!

As mentioned before, the engine is still not attached, nor the steering. All I worked on today was the rest of the supports on the front.

 

[Kentguy13]

Steering is now complete (sorta). It works, but it takes 3-1/2 steering wheel rotations to go from full left to full right. I'm not sure I will want that much, but won't know until I get it motorized and going.

 

[redsox985]

That's some interesting steering.

 

[Wim]

If you shorten the top arm on your transfer mechanism should reduce wheel turn.

 

[Kentguy13]

Thanks for the input. I'm familiar with the mechanics of it. I just ran out of time and motivation to relocate the pivot point. I'm gonna go with it for now and see how it drives. I figure I will seldom need to steer from full left to full right, so it may be fine.

 

[Wim]

Thought you might know whats up, but just in case.

I had a kart a few years ago that was about 2.5-3 turns from full lock and one good thing was it soaked up the bumps, could steer easily one handed.

 

[Kentguy13]

80% now

Hello... yes its been about a year in the making, but I've made alot of progress! It is a functioning, driving cart now. With no suspension it is limited to the type of driving you can do, but its a great yard cart. Enjoy the pics, if you have any questions feel free to ask! I look forward to finishing it and then starting the next project.

 

[Kentguy13]

Kill switch and supply wire

Also, I had a difficult time finding the kill switch location on this craftsman (B&S) 18 hp engine. There is a post on the top of the engine.... for anyone that has kept up with my posts and remember me asking a while back I originally confused it with the other wire sticking out from the top that helps charge the battery.

 

[logan_hurst]

Cool . . . I bet that's a lot of fun in an open parking lot! What do you think your top speed is? And how is the acceleration? What's your gearing?