15kw Electric Racing Kart

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wesleyb82

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Attached is a graph which shows motor amperage and battery amperage for a hard run around the block. Although the battery amperage peaks around 500 amps (although the controller reports battery voltage for some reason), the average battery amperage is about 100 amps which means if I'm on it hard non-stop it will last around 20 minutes but my real world tests allow me to run it for about 45 minutes and still have a little left.

There were some lessons learned along the way that I would like to share with this build. First, there is a reason you do not see many solid axle electric karts with 45lb batteries hanging off the back. That is because as everyone already knows solid axles dont like to steer on hard surfaces as it is then once you add weight on the rear it makes it even harder. To steer on the asphalt I must brake hard and steer at the same time which means you must carry a lot of speed through corners and come hard on the brakes to get it to steer. In the dirt its a different story naturally and its a beast. Power delivery is instantaneous and its a lot of fun in the dirt. Problem is this racing kart is so low even though I put the largest rain tires on the front and rear the bottom is dragging and the fiberglass seat is getting destroyed. So larger tires are in order.
 

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Ih82lose

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That's good information about the battery placement. I was wondering how much of an impact a rear mounted battery would have. What is the approximate weight of the components you have mounted in the back? I was planning on mounting my AGM batteries on the sides, but am still worried about the impact of the weight on the handling.

It looks like a blast to drive!
 

wesleyb82

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The battery is 45lbs plus the support bars which might be another 10lbs. If you have room on the sides I would recommend putting them there. It is a blast to drive. Instant power delivery.
 

drm

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hey wesleyb...i have a stock ggroundforce kart and would like to upgrade to bigger wheels like yours. do you have a build thread for that kart?
 

HelloYOU

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I just want to let you know that those pancake style motors are not very durable compared to a Series-Wound DC motor or AC induction motor setup. You will soon have lifted comm bars as the motor gets hot. For DC applications I like to use the D&D ES-22-2 series wound motor and AXE7234 controller for 72 volt systems or AXE4834 controller for 48 volt systems. The D&D ES-22-2 can also handle 72 volts with ease for top speeds near 70 MPH, depending on the gearing and tire diameter.
 

wesleyb82

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Thanks but your advice is about a year too late. This motor was already destroyed when the armature melted at the brush contact point. All good, now I know that doesn't work. I've been looking at brushless motors but I will look at the D&D's again I thought they were a little pricey when I looked last but maybe they will hold up better.
 

HelloYOU

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Thanks but your advice is about a year too late. This motor was already destroyed when the armature melted at the brush contact point. All good, now I know that doesn't work. I've been looking at brushless motors but I will look at the D&D's again I thought they were a little pricey when I looked last but maybe they will hold up better.

I would go AC induction. It's also brushless, but has no permanent magnets as it is 100% electromagnetic. It's the most reliable motor out of all the other types. I plan to leave DC and go AC also. Im looking at the AC-9 Kit: http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/motors/ac-induction/ac-9-kit.html with the 450 AMP controller option. The price is not bad.
 

Nikmish

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Thanks but your advice is about a year too late. This motor was already destroyed when the armature melted at the brush contact point. All good, now I know that doesn't work. I've been looking at brushless motors but I will look at the D&D's again I thought they were a little pricey when I looked last but maybe they will hold up better.

do you still have parts from it? i need brush housing, the plastic part of it.
 
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