150+ hp two seater rear axle chain driven

Willie1

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As to a right angle gearbox - issue with those are the RPM ratings - most are only 3600 RPM, especially at that power level. A healthy snowmobile engine pretty much doubles that. I would certainly look into that before designing a driveline around one.
The Odyssey build above used the factory Odyessy box and axles.

Pretty sure this project could be done. Cost effectively ??? And would you have a reliable - and rideable - unit when you are done? At what level quality of the build would make you happy? Reason I mention this, I follow some car/truck builders on the tube that do amazing things with swap projects, but one that stands to mind is a guy that always take the builds to "rat rods" level - basically a really neat project that mostly functions but IMO is a drivable eyesore (LOL)

I've done projects before that came out well, using stuff I had laying around and was able to make them work together. Had some expensive "failures", too - ended up spending more money than the end result was worth, trying to build a project around a "free" engine or chassis. Again - not trying to rain on any parades, or belittle others opinions - just trying to shine some light as to the pro's and cons of some ways to skin this particular cat.
 

FlyFrog

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As to a right angle gearbox - issue with those are the RPM ratings - most are only 3600 RPM, especially at that power level. A healthy snowmobile engine pretty much doubles that. I would certainly look into that before designing a driveline around one.
The Odyssey build above used the factory Odyessy box and axles.

Pretty sure this project could be done. Cost effectively ??? And would you have a reliable - and rideable - unit when you are done? At what level quality of the build would make you happy? Reason I mention this, I follow some car/truck builders on the tube that do amazing things with swap projects, but one that stands to mind is a guy that always take the builds to "rat rods" level - basically a really neat project that mostly functions but IMO is a drivable eyesore (LOL)

I've done projects before that came out well, using stuff I had laying around and was able to make them work together. Had some expensive "failures", too - ended up spending more money than the end result was worth, trying to build a project around a "free" engine or chassis. Again - not trying to rain on any parades, or belittle others opinions - just trying to shine some light as to the pro's and cons of some ways to skin this particular cat.
junkyard digs? vice grip garage? mortske repair? puddins fab shop?
 

Keef_it_Up

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To be quite honest I would prefer it to look like I bought it but I have always been into the minimalistic nature of rat rods but I need it to be strong more than anything. And just so you know I watch roadkill almost everyday. Really into the idea of fixing garbage. I just don't have any special tools like a lathe or anything like that so I can't fab low tolerance peices very well, if at all. I don't even have a garage or anything, I do all of my work in the front driveway
 

Denny

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I’d start with the 5 hp to practice doing a quality build first. Hone those fabrication chops first. Ride it and discover what you like and don’t like about it. Then change what you don’t like and redesign what doesn’t work. Then do the big build. Knowledge is what you get from making mistakes and then learning from them.
 

Keef_it_Up

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I’d start with the 5 hp to practice doing a quality build first. Hone those fabrication chops first. Ride it and discover what you like and don’t like about it. Then change what you don’t like and redesign what doesn’t work. Then do the big build. Knowledge is what you get from making mistakes and then learning from them.
The only thing that is new to me is the whole "make your own frame" part of it. I could do just about anything but because I have no budget I need to make it right the first time. I only have 8 bed frames for the angled sTeel and about 4 fuel tank's for sheet metal. Last thing I want to do is just slap it together to learn from my mistakes. I'd prefer to do my research and draw up plans with proper measurements. I like getting things right the first time. Just my opinion on things as I've had many ocupations. From electrician to mechanic to carpenter. I've seen people do stuff without planning enough and it usually ends with it being more costly and time consuming to retrofit changes to something with a poor design from the jump. I've seen engines catch fire because they didn't look at the thing before turning the key. It had a leaking fuel line beside the actual coil. If you look and think for a bit stuff works a lot easier. Oh and btw I am a great welder but I can't make thing's that require a lathe. No matter how good I am with a angle grinder.it's just not feasible. Long story short. I got plans for the 900 to go in it so I'm building the frame around that.. scrapped one already as it was too tight.
 

Denny

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Bed frames are junk steel and crack easily. Ask me how I know. From experience! I think I’m going to bow out now. I could not have someone’s getting getting hurt on my conscience. I can understand not having a lot of money for a build. We have had several kids on here in the past that have done decent builds by scrounging what they could. But they listened to the advice they were given and built their dream machine. You do not seem willing to listen to advice from anybody. It almost feels like we are being trolled. Good luck, I’m out.
 

Keef_it_Up

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Bed frames are junk steel and crack easily. Ask me how I know. From experience! I think I’m going to bow out now. I could not have someone’s getting getting hurt on my conscience. I can understand not having a lot of money for a build. We have had several kids on here in the past that have done decent builds by scrounging what they could. But they listened to the advice they were given and built their dream machine. You do not seem willing to listen to advice from anybody. It almost feels like we are being trolled. Good luck, I’m out.
Well I thank you for all the insights you've given me so far. If they're junk then I guess we are thinking of different styles. I shall try to post a few photos to see if you think I should keep going with them.
 

Keef_it_Up

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Bed frames are junk steel and crack easily. Ask me how I know. From experience! I think I’m going to bow out now. I could not have someone’s getting getting hurt on my conscience. I can understand not having a lot of money for a build. We have had several kids on here in the past that have done decent builds by scrounging what they could. But they listened to the advice they were given and built their dream machine. You do not seem willing to listen to advice from anybody. It almost feels like we are being trolled. Good luck, I’m out.

20211210_004704.jpg20211210_005007.jpg
 
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Denny

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Still think it is a bad idea. Shame to do all that work just to throw it away. Steel water or gas pipe would be better. Just make sure to grind off the zinc galvanized coating in the areas you are going to weld. Zinc poisoning sucks, it’s worse than the worst case of flue you ever had. Oh, and it can kill you quickly but painfully.
 

Keef_it_Up

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Allright well atleast I have some extra steel for making pickup truck headache racks. I'll be sure to post my material before I start another frame.
 

Keef_it_Up

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Sorry for the usual excuses but where I live there is just a public landfill for the town of 250 people. Next town over is a 2 hour drive. With the same scenario. Next town after that is the same thing. Closest junkyard is in the city, 5 hours one way trip. And because it's winter we get sunlight from 11 am until 3pm. Also, gasoline is $1.899/liter. Which I believe is close to 7$/US Gallon
 

7thofa2nd

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It's the engine I have. I have a Honda 5hp but would you pick 5hp over 155hp? I have my doubts lol
In my unsolicited opinion... unless you plan on spending a lot of your time at a 1/8 - 1/4 mile race track, what else are your plans for your finished project? For me personally, I think the novelty would wear off after a few hours.
 

DavidBoren

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Could you just fix the sled?

People drag race those things on drag strips... race them on sand dunes... salt flats... snowmobiles show up in all kinds of places that have never seen snow. There are tracks and skids for pretty much every surface you could take a go-kart. And... you have snow... a snowmobile is probably usable more months out of the year than a go-kart.

Although, that is not what you asked... so, how far can you shorten the belts/chains in the clutch setup? Stack that system up as much as possible, to shorten the amount of space it takes. Can you flip the chaincase towards the front, and put the driveshaft directly under the engine? Isn't that essentially what a transverse CVT in a car has done?

Even if you can only shorten the drivebelt and chain to their minimum possible lengths, you should be able to sit that behind some seats... the distance between the secondary clutch and drive sprocket can be exactly what you need it to be in order to center it or line it up with whatever your rear axle setup ends up being.

I would try stretch the chassis to best distribute weight, and position all storage and radiators and fuel above the front tires. Possibly make it more of a trike... a pair of front tires set wide apart, and either a single rear tire or a set of tires mounted as close together as possible. I think this trike arrangement might just work if you end up with a literally solid rear axle (spool/welded/locked). You could possibly adapt a single-sided swingarm from a motorcycle to work with the snowmobile drive system... I don't have detailed enough knowledge to know if that could be done easily, or not.
 

DavidBoren

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Holy crap... I was wrong... WAY wrong...

A single-sided swingarm for a 200hp motorcycle is 10,000 freaking American dollar... $10,000.00!!!!!!!!!!

My bad. Nevermind that suggestion.
 

OffRoadGoKart2024

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> I am extremely budget limited 50/month

Well, at least around in the Atlanta Georgia area you can buy Ford 9" axles for $150-$300. For a non road use vehicle, those are fairly easy to cut down and reweld the axle tube ends. If you get a Ford F-100 axle, they came with 5x4.5 vs. the truck standard 5x5.5 wheel mounts. Many Ford 9" axles are in the 66-68 WMS range.

I would advise driving it by the pinion, but, if you lincoln locked it, you could maybe could drive it from a single axle shaft with a gear welded or bolted to the axle wheel mount end, so, no brakes on that side. You can get just about anything you can dream up for a Ford 9" axle, They even have generator kits for Ford 9" axles.
 
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