$100 Manco Dingo

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STiForester

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So I just pick up a Manco dingo 5 horsepower it does run and everything is intact it has a rear disc brake and a front suspension. I have so many ideas flowing about a cool little kart. I'm so used to building atc70 and whatnot. The kart world is new to me but everything is fairly cheap.

I'm hoping the wife likes to cruise in it in the snow. Even though I just picked up a trx70 project for her.

Post som pics of your builds. Maybe it will spark some.cool ideas!
 

Poboy kartman

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Welcome to the forum! !! Ummmm......you have the pic thing backwards.....you post up pics of your stuff......

There are pictures all over this forum.....just go looking.....
 

STiForester

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Yea I hear ya. I'll have to post pics when I'm not on the my mobile. These seem cheap enough and easy enough to tinker with. Now to do some searching on clutch components and sprockets. Any tips for a rider that's 5'10" 160lbs for spring choice or sprocket choice?
 

2SlickNick

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Welcome. Yes we do like pics.

Fo-getta-bout a clutch.
A torque converter is the way to go with a live axle kart like you have.
 

STiForester

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That's what I meant! I have to reassemble the torque converter. The guy before me put on a centrifugal clutch instead of the torque converter and it wouldn't go anywhere. So he sold it to me for $100

I still have all of the original parts he took off. So game on. Not sure the condition of the springs and such I haven't got a chance to look at it all yet
 
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Hursty

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:welcome2: some one else from pa. :wai:

good deal on the Manco!!!!

i also just picked up another cheap Manco today, needs work but thats the way i like them. :roflol:
 

OzFab

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Most likely, it didn't want to move with the CC because the gearing was way off, with the original TC in place, you restore the original gearing so, it should go ok...

For future refernce, see the "Edit" button in the lower right of your posts? We prefer you use that as opposed to making multiple, consecutive posts a minute apart ;)

Welcome to the forum...
 

STiForester

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So what's a better option? Centrifugal clutch or the torque converter? I started ordering new stuff like the bronze bushing and new belt for 30 series. I noticed the Buttons were all missing and some one tried to ride it. Pretty banged up so I also ordered another driven pulley assembled.

I was curious of a way to run a battery and some wiring to an led light bar. Any links easily accessible? I'm going to continue my search but so far hasn't paid off
 

firemanjim

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There are a bunch of ways to get more power. Use the search feature and look for 5hp Briggs ......
You're asking the same questions as 1000's before you..... We have the answers to the most obvious questions like these , all over the forum. I promise, if you spend a few minutes ,using the right key words, oh will find all the answers...... :thumbsup:
Please fill in your location, so we know where "your neck of the woods" is...... There is no point in me finding you a sprocket in Argentina, if you're in Brussels....... :thumbsup:
And use the TC.... The cc will not work......
EDIT
Disregard the location part, confused this thread, with the one I read prior to it.....
 

STiForester

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Ok I got it all together but the chain is hitting the driven clutch. Am I missing a part? I got the kart in pieces. I feel like then sprocket should have a built in key way. And they maybe need a spacer in between?

 

STiForester

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I made a few spacers with 5/8 ID and also added some holes for sets screws at the machine shop today. Well see how the fit. I may need to fave more material off to get the right spacing.
 

JMINDY

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As long as the Driver and the Drive Clutch are in proper alinement to each other (and as long as it is tight with no side to side play) , then I wouldn't think you need a spacer.

To me it looks like you just need to mover the axle sprocket over to the right to line up with the jackshaft sprocket, thus moving the chain away from the drive clutch. Then if the chain hits the engine/frame (it looks close - maybe, maybe not) or still hits the drive clutch, you can add a spacer (thick washer) between the jackshaft and the mounting plate or the jackshaft and drive clutch depending on which side it's hitting. Adding a spacer moves the drive clutch out further on the shaft, so you have to add a spacer also on the inside space of the driver on the engine shaft to keep the driver in alinement with the drive clutch. Can't add to much width in spacers because you'll run out of engine shaft to mount the driver on.

I'd start with making sure the two TC drivers are in line with each other, then move the axle sprocket over in line with the jackshaft, then if the chain hits add spacers to each driver shaft to create clearance.
 

STiForester

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Exactly what I was thinking. I'm going to do that today. Also I need to grab a keyway for the sprocket

How tight should I make the jackshaft? Right now it has the availability to move side to side about half inch
 

JMINDY

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I just bought my first TC for my build, so I don't have much experience to go by... don't think you would want any movement. If jackshaft is moving, means chain is out of alinement, which is more wear on the sprocket teeth.

If the jackshaft doesn't have a set screw, then you may need spacers to fill the gap and limit movement.
 
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