08 Subaru 265cc clutch problem ??

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itsid

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it's torqued to 100N +/-5 which is on the TIGHT side of things ;)

slide it back onto the engine shaft (with key installed!)
get a long wrench (ring preferred) and give it a tap with a hammer.

(the inertia of the engine should hold the clutch in place and the whack should free the nut)

but yes, penetrating oil does help ;)

'sid
 

dieinstyle

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I dident want to break it dose it just snap off?

---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------

Yea It dose not wanna come off
 

Poboy kartman

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I dident want to break it dose it just snap off?

---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------

Yea It dose not wanna come off

Use excessive force...yes...they are not designed to be removable...but just an unnecessary piece of plastic that covers a metal screw underneath.
 

dieinstyle

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And now it's broken good advice

---------- Post added at 06:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 PM ----------

Well I reken my thing stays crappy and stuff now no more idle screw
 

itsid

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Sorry..
yeah. snapring: very important: it keeps the spring in place..
So find a matching snapring and install it.

Just take your clutch to the hardwarestore and testfit a handfull of sizes ;)

Now for your carb:

yes, it's supposed to be only turnable by that much to prevent IDK users messing with it too much because of EPA regulations or something
And yes, that IS the idle screw.. (or pilot screw or pilot air mix needle... anyways idle screw :D)
or should I say has been :(

IDK why Doug told you to snap it off, that was in fact a BS move,
since parts for low profile mikunis are not exactly easy to find :(
And even more.. there was no need to turn any further than the preset ...

(here's a breakdown of your carb in greater detail:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/subaru_robin_mikuni_27x-623xx-xx_carb.asp
)
When I interpret that image (on that site above) correctly, yours should have snapped just above a square part but for sure above the collar.

IF SO.. You are perfectly fine... nothing happened (you just removed the limiting cap)

get a needle nose plier and unscrew the needle .. all the way out!
Now slot the top piece to have it fit a screwdriver (clean the needle, and a bit of compressed air to also clean the thread it came from)
and screw it back in using the screwdriver...
all the way in "but gently", no need to apply force
what you want is a lightly seated needle.

and when you bottomed out, one and a quarter turn back out.
that's the stock setting.

Now sart the engine and use that screw to dial the idle speed in;
have it as low idling as possible without hiccups.

If it snapped further down the thread you're screwed I'm afraid
unfortunately not even the robin parts manual lists the pilot screw,
and thus I can't tell you it's oem part number :(

If you can remove it's remains though, you can measure the thread and needle distance
(best needle specs.. [length diameter].. as well)
and then trace down a part from a different carb that fits.

Good luck.

'sid
 

Poboy kartman

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Well...I figured that he would seperate the plastic from the metal...not snap the dammmmed head off! IDK....

Where has common sense gone?

I told him there was a screw under there.
 

itsid

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Yeah DOUG I know (well I assumed that)

still it's not yet the best advice ever.. from the video the engine ran fine, no need for a thorough carb clean or anything (from what little I can tell by the sound of a video from across the globe of course)
Anywhoo.. removing the cap wasn't even necessary here IMHO.
(turning it up or down where required within it's limitations)
to get it set low enough for the clutch to not engage (once reinstalled)

that's all we needed in this case ...

Ah well, layed eggs.

dieinstyle, selffullfillingprophicynicknameanyone? :lolgoku:

Now, you still have the collar on the screw (to hold the spring)?
if so, again, nothing to worry about; you're still golden.
slot it, use it.. feel bad about the loss of a plastic cap, but nothing harmed the usability of your engine (you only increased the idle range settable :D)

'sid
 

dieinstyle

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Yea it's broke off I'll take a pic when I get home
Lol I've had dieinstyle sinse socom 3 hit ps2 I even had a guy I know see my name on ps2 he stole it for Xbox
 

dieinstyle

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yup

So here be the insides of me clutch the red guy dosent look happy
 

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OzFab

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As well as needing some necessary maintenance, I feel you may have the incorrect belt fitted... but, I could be wrong...

When not running, is the drive belt loose?
 

itsid

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Well, I think the red/orange piece will still be fine.

If I'm interpreting it correctly It's made as a spring retaining plug that is designed to also keep as much dust, grime and dirt out as possible.
And while I agree that the lip isn't properly sealing no longer (because of it's non existence)

So yeah, I'd get the missing snapring, and reassemble the clutch.
then start some researching to find a replacement grommet
just to know where to find one in case you need one.
amsportworks still has the complete driver clutch listed in their shop ($420 :eek:)
Anyways, I'm sure they can be of help to get the part you need if you do need it to be replaced.

'sid
 

dieinstyle

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Yea it's loose when not running and I do think the snap ring is there pics I've seen show the orange guy sucured in the housing when I opened it up it was not the thing exploded when I took the bell off

---------- Post added at 09:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ----------

And if I were to replace the pully are there cheaper alternatives
 
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