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Got the new springs installed. I didn’t realize when I put it together how much the original springs had sagged. Close to a 1/4” shorter over the new 2” springs. The springs took a lot of extra noise away when driving, increased the feed back in steering and took away 90% of the slop. Not sure...

Cutting the springs and adding spacers will only change the spring rate and total travel. It’s a linear equation. Spring rate with the new springs will be about 216lbs for the 2”. I bought 6 springs for the price of 2 off any go kart site, so no reason not to play around.

I appreciate the advice. I’ll see how they work out, if they are to stiff I may end up cutting it down to one inch with a spacer or ordering a lower spring rate and making it a progressive suspension.

I ended up adding, by accident, a little positive camber to the right spindle when I welded a new bolt on. I have a feeling when I made the first tack weld it bent the bolt down a bit. I bought new 2” springs from McMaster Carr with a spring rate of 107.83 lb/in. I couldn’t find any...

She done! Had to weld on a new bolt on the right spindle because the previous owner had cut through half the bolt. Did notice it until I started putting her back together. Got her up to 31MPH before I got scared and let out. The front end at those speeds is loose. No doubt it would go faster...

Thanks! If I was making a cart for my self I would paint the chassis grey with neon splatter and the wheels neon green. It was originally blue and yellow, but I went with a brighter blue and yellow. I’m going to slap a couple Goodyear and Sunoco stickers on it and be done. My son is turning...

A lot closer tonight. I did end having to slightly modify the axle collar stop for the driven gear. Nothing a grinder, welder, and 3 trips to the hardware store couldn’t solve.

I feel like everyone took my QC comment personal. I love what HF offers, I’m not talking **** on HF or the predator engine itself. Let’s face it HF doesn’t manufacture, they buy and sell. And it’s known that they are able to cut costs by forgoing extra QC by the manufacturers. It’s not a...

I appreciate all the replies. I did a little digging and as far back as 2021 this has been occurring. I am familiar with the engine, but when I bought it thought I had a non-hemi. It wasn’t until yesterday that I had paid much attention to the head when installing the tach/hour meter. I was...

The model number specified it’s not, but I’m thinking like you, that’s a hemi valve cover. I’m going to have to pull the head at some point to verify.

If you’ve got the ability it may cause less heartache. Glad we could help. Keep us updated on the axle swap.

Getting things sanded and primed. I did have a question for those familiar with the predator 212 line of engines. The model I have is 69730, which is not supposed to be a “hemi”, hemispherical piston. However, the valve cover is cast material and rectangular, which is typical of a “hemi” engine.

I believe Denny is referring to the axle tube. I would agree. It sounds like the bearing had gone bad at some point and was not replaced causing the tube to widen at the opening. Lots of torque on one end of the axle tube. You could get a caliper and measure both sides and see how far it has...

Just my two cents, but it does appear that the driven clutch (in pic 6) sets almost a 1/4” toward the engine. It’s difficult to say for sure as pictures are worth a thousand words, but don’t always tell the truth. Is it possible that the belt is not the correct size? Should the belt ever...

Thanks for the confident tip.

I little work on the kart tonight. I mounted the CVT and scrapped some the loose paint. Cleaned up the vinyl on the seat and side pads. The good news is that the mock up with the CVT appears as though the driven gear and axle gear align perfectly with no modifications. I measured the frame...

Some examples of live axles attached. Hope this helps you delineate your setup.

Attach some pictures of the current axle setup. Axles attach a few ways and it is necessary to know for a “kit” swap unless you have the means for fabrication and welding. Wheels are either bored to fit a specific axle diameter with a key or you need hubs bored for axle diameter with key and...

Just curious, do you have a picture of the output side?

If I ever decide a 1” axle is necessary, I’ll put it on a 1 1/2” tube frame. No real gain upgrading to 1” except in the amount of wheel/tire combinations. The frame, I haven’t measured, but would guess is probably 3/4” tube. For now the 5/8” axle, albeit an odd size, will suffice. I know I...