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Nice for me that you already tested the number of breathers/check valves and seems like 2 is the sweet spot! LOL The crankcase hose I installed is coming from the hole where the governor arm was. A new vented side cover was too expensive in my mind so I did it myself.

Got it. But where are you saying I need to put the second check valve? In the crankcase hose or drill another valve breather?

What do you mean by plug the hose? My setup is based off this one minute video minus the fact that I only have one crankcase vent hose vs the two in the video. He wasn’t using check valves for the crankcase hoses. Is that what you’re saying is the problem?

Only one check valve in the valve breather at the moment.

Copy on the no check valve for the tank breather. Question about the valve cover breather though… Now that I have the crankcase venting to the valve cover with a new outlet drilled in the middle between the two rocker arms, I’m seeing oil leak out of the stock valve breather hose due to the...

What direction should the check valve be for the fuel tank breather? I thought it was supposed to point in but the stock valve check has an arrow pointing out. Thanks

Ah, I see what you’re saying now. Not a bad idea. I def don’t want to start wearing down the new cam from the get go. Maybe I’ll give that a shot. My original thought process was to put everything in up front, so I can “set it and forget it”, and do as minimal upgrades in the future. I’ll keep...

The old push rods are stock too, so if my setup bent the new stock rods, then they would just bend the old ones. I think I read on another thread here in DIY that it was somewhat pointless to break in an engine stock, then break it in again with the mods. I’m confused on breaking in the cam. Is...

Yeah, def misunderstood you LOL And I thought I was getting a good deal with the $20 coupon, just to see it was $99 this weekend for their spring Black Friday! Jokes on me 🤣 No coloring on the clutch springs, but I feel like diagnosing the clutch is easier than the engine so I’m putting that to...

Pics as requested. Not sure how to break it down any further, but let me know if you can tell what clutch it is. Thanks.

Nope - I didn’t mill the head. I’ll get a new guide plate like you recommended. What do you mean in regards to a better platform. Are you talking about a better engine block in general? I’m stuck with what I have for now due to the investment I’ve already made. I’m obviously working on getting...

I’ve taken the clutch cover off or whatever it’s called, to lube the ring, but still didn’t have any identification on it. From what I could feel when I took the kart out, their was no issue with the clutch disengaging.

No idea. It came with the Kart. No logos or numbers anywhere on the clutch so I can’t tell.

Welp, after only taking the engine out once, the stock push rods are already bent a little… I’m no expert, but am a bit surprised they’re bent after only reaching a 38MPH top speed. Do you guys recommend a specific length for chromoly push rods on a stage 3 212?

Will do! OMB Warehouse is where I’m ordering from so I’ll check for that piston- I know they have the gasket. Go power sports takes FOREVER to ship and they never pick up their damn phone. They lost me after I place my first big order. Thanks Brown Stain! PS Having Crohns, I think I hold the...

Phew, that’s reassuring. I add Sta-bil storage to the gas. I’m def changing the head gasket to .027 like you recommended, so that should help. I don’t plan on taking the exhaust, intake, or springs off since I’m fairly confident theirs no issue there. Unless you really think there could be a...

You’re right, I did it the way you explained now that I’m looking back at it. I have the head off now. Before I took the engine off my kart, I checked the spark plug to see if I’m running lean or rich, and it definitely looked rich. But now that I have the head off, it looks like it’s running...

Nice! I don’t have a temp gauge and don’t plan on getting one so I’ll ignore covering up any vents. I have 22lb springs since that’s what the .265 dynocam I have recommended. In regards to boring the head, I went in the intake port with a Dremel grinding stone bit and took off a small amount...

Thanks again for your detailed analysis! Do you prefer ARC or NR over the other or same ****, different brand? The research I’ve done said the stock timing is 28 degrees. I bought a 4 degree offset key for my PVL Flwheel since the manufacturer recommends starting at 28-31 degrees. I haven’t...

If I get a new flat top/hemi piston, will that change how thick of a head gasket I’d need? If so, do you know how thick I should go?