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So far, I've none of this has been near as cheap as I'd have dreamed it would have been. I ended up ordering a 90" cable from the jungle store.... manco or something chinese I'm sure. We'll see.

Any suggestions for a throttle cable and throttle attachment solution? I'll be leaving the governor on, for now.

I suppose I could cut the nose off and widen it more, and that probably is the right way to do it, but I'm already quite a bit wider than the plans called for. Stepping back to the 8" rack would also be and easy solution. I already have the roll cage started and welded on too. I'm committed...

Well I guess I should qualify the bump steer statement... I'm debating how anal I need to be about it. With the way these A-arms are setup, I think bump steer could be eliminated by making the steering rods the exact same length as the A-arms (pivot points, eye to eye). My Steering rack is too...

You're in good company then, I'm just figuring this out as I go :). So... I'm not sure if taking any ideas from my build is wise or not... Yeah the A-arms are a pain, could have been a much easier process with a different design... now that I've done it once I might try something else...

This is mainly for my 10yo son & 7yo old daughter (eventually). We live very rural, and he can jump on it and run around the sticks right from our house, so I'm hoping it'll get used every day, but we'll see. I built it big enough hoping it'll last him well into his teen years. 20" wheels...

I'd be happy with running 420 chain on a #41 sprocket in steel... but I actually didn't find a lot of options in steel... all I could find in 5.25" 6 bolt circle was either a 40T, or a 54T. If I run aluminum, I found all kinds of options, but I also found that to be true for #50/530 sprockets...

I bought an axle hub for my project to run 6 bolt 5.25" circle pattern sprockets... which seemed to be common pattern in the karting world. For various reasons, I'm going to end up running #50/530 pitch chain, which is likely overkill, but it's what i'm going with. I can change if I really...

So, on the topic of bump steer.... given that the A arms are exactly the same length, and spaced the same vertically, there is no imaginary intersection point at which to align steering rods. The tires move up and down perpendicular to the frame. My small brain then says to eliminate bump...

I think through this a lot for how I might do my next buggy (which I'm hoping to do IRS).... I'd just use CV axles from the auto industry. They're likely cheaper than ATV/UTV parts and should be plenty stout. I doubt you could actually make them cheaper yourself by the time you're done buying...

Hmmm.... if I add L brackets to move the attachment point of of the spindle arms inward (to obtain ackermann angle), I would think I would need to maintain the over all length of the tie rods relative to the the A-arm, so I'd need the pivot points of the rack connections to be set inward as well.

Ah.... I guess if I thought about it enough (sometimes hard), the pivot points at the rack (ideally, in line with the A-arm pivots) will move with the attachment/pivot points at the spindle arm, so... the geometry the should stay relatively the same.

That was a good video.... most valuable part to me was to get your angle on the spindle arms to meet at the center point of your rear axle which makes sense to me to get the proper arc on the inner and outer circle of your tires. I think I can accomplish this easy enough by adding brackets to...

Well I learn something new on this build at every corner... didn't know anything about ackermann angle, so thanks for that rabbit hole. I may have to build some sort of "L" bracket off the spindle arms to achieve this. Not quite sure how to get the geometry right yet, but, "close enough" might...

Something else, I use the parts list on the BMI kit as a bit of a guide sometimes to see what BMI puts together for their kit and go from there: https://www.bmikarts.com/Kit-for-GrandDaddy-Kart-Plan-from-Spider-Carts_p_21522.html I don't think they made all the best choices in some cases, but...

I went with the standard 3/4" spindles. They are on BMI karts but can also be found on amazon, which is where I got mine, but it is no longer listed now. I ended up with the 3/4" by 4.5" spindles, much like this: https://www.bmikarts.com/Complete-Spindle-Set--4-12-x-34-_p_4996.html The 4.5"...

I extended 6", and I think that is about right for me (5'11"). You could possibly stretch further, but I could fit reasonable with the seats all the way a back, and my 9 year old can still reach everything comfortably with the seats all the way forward (granted, he is tall for a 9yo). I think...

Rear subframe is on, and mocked up engine location. I ended up making the subframe 2" longer because the 420 is a good bit bigger than the plans were designed for. I also kinda wish I'd made it a couple inches wider too, but the upper shock mount location was already part of the mainframe...

One more point to your question... widening might not be a bad idea if you lengthen. I sometimes wonder if I should have done this. Another inch of space between the seats, and between the seats and the outside rail wouldn't hurt (it is a pretty close fit). Its an odd number but you could go...

Yeah, this hobby requires constant learning it seems. What I've arrived at is to tack more locations, check square, double check square, tack again.... make sure that it is lined up with lots of tacks before I start burning it all together. It seems to be helping. I'm also not welding it ALL...