Search results

I'm modifying the existing frame. The subframe will reduce the overhang and produce a symmetrical chassis. I think this is the easiest way for me to perform the mod. :iagree: 10" is my initial guess and is not written in stone. Currently I have a 66T, which OD is just 7 1/4". 72T OD is less...

:oops: I'm confused now. I don't plan to extend any segment existing by welding material using just the section as point of contact (ie make a 12" segment by joining an 8" and a 4" segments) My idea is to build a brand new 24"x10"x1" rectangle, pillow block bearing will be attached to the 10"...

I already have enough 1" square tube and want to minimize welds on structural parts. :iagree: I'll use most of the removed material.

:iagree: Thanks! I'll double check the 10" dimension planning for the future. :oops: There will be just 0.75" overlap in each side since it was wider in the front. What is the minimum recommended overlap? Once assembled I'll test it and can perform a mod in the front end if required.

The drawings show the original asymetric rear end (left one) and my proposal to make it symetrical (on the right). The idea is to add a 24"x10"x1" rectangular frame to install the pillow block bearings that support the 1"x36" axle. This will reduce the overhang. I'll also move the engine from...

Part numbers for live axle: With Steel Insert-1" to 3/4" Step, 1/4" Keyway 1117 Half With Steel Insert 1" ID, 1/4" Keyway 8009 Half With 3/4" Bore 8011 1117 is composed of one 8011 and one 8009.

I'll draw some options for the chassis mods taking your comments into account...

Azusa Tri Star rims for live axle are composed by one keyed half and one half with bearing. I'm following Azusa's technical advise, so I bought 2 keyed halves since I already have enough bearing halves. The Viper STX is a rectangular chassis but in the left rear side has a sort of extension...

The parts just arrived. The first picture shows: 1" x 36" axle, 2 rim halves, sprocket hub and pillow block bearings. My concern is the lenght of the axle ends if I attached the pillow block bearings directly to the chasis as it is today. Left side will be 7" and rigth side 9.5" from the edge...

Thanks for the explanation! I understand how tyre diameter and width impact traction and breaking. In your experience, it is possible to build a single drive kart that breaks fine and has not traction problems when used "off road" (grass and gravel surfaces).?

Not clear with your comment. As far as I know my initial post/question gives enough details about the traction and braking issues. I'm really interested in learning as much as possible about building karts. Do you think that bigger tires will solve the breaking/traction issue? If so, could...

It is cheaper to buy the axle from AZUSA than 1020 + precision shop charges (at least here in Costa Rica)

The 4 wheels are 5/8" with bearings. I ordered from AZUSA parts to convert 2 of them to live axle (half wheel with keyway and 3/4 bearing), a sprocket hub and 1" axle. Parts should arrive by Sep 22. I'll buy pillow block bearing here in Costa Rica. I'll post pictures before and after the...

Yes, I know but I use the kart in the back yard and it gets stucked in the grass and gravel. I hope an improvement in traction. I'll post results when the parts arrive.

I ordered some parts from AZUSA, they should arrive to Costa Rica by Sep 20... I'll try to post some before/after pictures...

Works great! It seems I'm the first one from Costa Rica!

Hi everyone! I'm new in this forum and I need your help. I built a Viper STX using the MXK.COM plan. It is single drive with a sprocket/drum brake, so only one tyre brakes and it is a real safety issue. I use the go kart in the back yard and driveway. In the grass the traction is terrible...