Recent content by Grimm

I know it's been a while since I had anything to post on this project, but I got a free week of vacation between the holidays! So I took a winter drive to my brother in laws' house because at his job he has tools better suited to frame building :wai: No, its not totally straight, no we didn't...

still slowly progressing when I have free time, I obtained a brake rotor from an older snowmobile, it happens to be nearly perfect fit for the parts I already have. so I matched it's hole pattern to my mount that will go on the jackshaft. I also stripped off the zinc plating so it can be safely...

I got some more parts closer today, all the components of the rear hub are ready to weld, and the jack shaft is getting closer. the long tube is the rear hub, the smaller 8 holed plate is for the sprocket, and the red one is for the rim. the sprocket will be drilled so i can change the final...

so I have been working on the mount, and I think it is pretty good. since theae pictures were taken I added another piece that ties to the left gas tank stud because it had some flexing. when the engine is running, the lights come on at just over the idle, so I will be using a battery in...

today the torque converter showed up, and as I had heard, it did not come with the correct bolts. :mad2: so a trip to home despot and here we are. I think I have everything on correctly, although the flat sides are not 100% in line (about 1/16th off) when assembling it, I was concerned that...

for pulleys and belt, I used the XL size which is 1/5" or 5.08mm between teeth and 3/8" wide. they can get spendy if you don't look hard enough, I think i paid $7 for the small one (12 tooth) and $14 for the large one (35 tooth) when I ordered, they let you pick the bore diameter, for the larger...

it's a belt drive with teeth so it won't slip. the lights are only pulling 36 watts total so the outrunner has lots of room as when run via a motor controller it can handle over 300 watts. with the pulleys I have, it will spin 2.6 times faster than the engine. that works out to 9600 rpm at...

today I got my electrical bits into a project box, tested again to make sure before closing it up. if anyone wants to make something similar i can get you a detailed parts list of what I am using.

got some mounting done today :) they look a little narrower on the rims, but it'll work.

I am also going to be adding an alternator to the engine as i need to have headlights and tail lights for the occasional long trail ride. it might be over engineered but it will work well and let me add more functionality later on. here is a quick demo of the alternator working...

thanks, it was my first time using a steady rest on the longer bearing tube :) once I have the wheels, I can turn the small shelves for the plate parts to fit perpendicular for welding.

First build, fat tire bike long story short, i am building an off road mini bike/ trail bike. because it will have to traverse more than dirt trails, i want to have full suspension and fat-ish knobby tires. i have already bought the predator engine, some carlisle tires and a pair of 8*7 rims...

true, the gear ratio would have to be changed by the TAV and rear sprocket like a non suspension bike.

why not use a rod for the swing arm and have the sprockets on a tube with bearings inside? only would need 4 bearings, 2 of which could be bushings for the swing arm movement. a couple of clip grooves or even shaft collars to keep the sprockets in line. correct me if you see an issue, i had...

Coeur D'alene to be precise.