Recent content by greenkidd

I don't have any keystock on the shaft; the fixed flat pulley face (side closest to the engine) and the 4-lobe splined hub have a keyway but that's it. Even if it did have a key, the washer would still be sitting out like it is. The shaft on this Mitsubishi engine is @3 1/4" long (it appears...

Yeah, everything I've seen shows it flush with the pulley/bell. However, it's butting up against the engine shaft (I don't have any keys in the shaft). I ASSume the bolt holder washer is essentially an extension of the shaft from the engine (same diameter and has a keyway)?

Well, I'm back again with more stupid questions. The bolt holder on the driver pulley butts up against the engine shaft (photo below). Am I missing something here? I used the spacer included with the kit but guessing I did something wrong. Instead of the bolt holder piece, I have a washer that...

Here I am asking questions again. Using that OMB adapter plate, I'm able to line up the sprockets. However, what I'm noticing is when I place the drive sprocket on the axle splines, there is a bit of wobble. It does appear that some of the splines on the sprocket (and axle) are a bit worn. I...

The jackshaft or the plate itself is bent based on how it was set up before with the sprocket on the end of the shaft. The shaft itself won't slide out of the TC plate and I have a hard time putting the old drive sprocket back on it. Good point on trying to shim out the sprocket on the...

I reinstalled the axle along with the old torque converter mounting plate to get an idea of how much room I'll need (the jackshaft is bent!). As seen from the photos, the engine needs to slide to the left a bit and probably to the back. The bolt holes on the frame are slotted so I can move the...

Yeah, good call on those ideas Red and Denny. Based on his photos, if mine ends up having the same spacing (I ASSume it will since it has the Mitsubishi engine), I'm thinking of two things. The first is using some steel plate or square tubing to space the engine over to the left and up. I...

Thanks for the help and information everyone! I finally removed the axle and ground off the welds from the drive sprocket. It slides freely onto the axle splines and I just need new bearings. However, after reading the posts linked below, I’m wondering if there’s a reason why the previous owner...

Yeah, I'm trying to figure this thing out, including where and why they welded the drive sprocket on the shaft. At this point, I don't think the sprocket carrier has a keyway; it appears to only have splines (I haven't seen a keyway or key on the shaft or sprocket). I like the idea of the...

Ha ha, good call! I might use a torch again to see if it helps. I have new bearings on order.

I was able to get back out to look over things. It appears that the drive sprocket should be on the splines on the shaft? I'm assuming that anyway because the brake rotor goes on the splines on the other side. With that said, IF I can grind off the welds on the sprocket assembly, it should slide...

Wow Jim, thanks! I'll work on it this week.

Thanks! The sprocket is welded to the axle. I considered grinding the welds off if I can but a part of me is just considering a new axle. The brake is good but I’d get new bearings and lock collars.

Well I finally got to the kart and after using some heat, was able to get the passenger side loose. Now I can at least move the axle inwards to have the sprocket line up better but on the passenger side I’m not able to move the bearing inward because the diameter of the axle is too large. Also...

Okay, the sprocket has 69 teeth, the tire is @16" outside diameter, and the links are 1/2". Also, after looking, could I loosen the collar clamps on the axle(s) and slide the axle over toward the passenger side? I kind of feel like a previous owner moved the axle out more on the driver side. I...