Sparkly Oil?

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ineed2fly

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I finally put the gasket on my crankcase and when I opened it up the oil was sparkly....like bits of metal in it. It is a 5.5 HP B+S. Is this part of the normal break in cycle? What is the reccomended break in method for a B+S? I was thinking just let it run thorough a tank of gas on idle.

Thanks,
Nick
 

jr dragster T

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well since you do fly airplanes Maybe "glow fuel" or nitro you should be fairley familier with break in procedures normally you just run normall oil in it and vary the rpms every so often for a few tanks then run synthetic if you want. But if the engine is used then why need to break it in? I am assuming its used because your putting a new sidecover gasket on it.
 

kibble

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I guess if the oil was never changed since it was new then that may be the reason why. If the oil had been changed since then, you shouldn't have sparkly oil, you may have another problem.
 

ineed2fly

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It was an engine from a tech class that is new, but the lost the gasket. Actually I don't fly *sob* (saving for PG now though) I do fly kites! Does that count? I am putting new oil in so as not to put metal bits back in but this is the first oil change but it has only run for less than an hour. But my friend said "it looks like break in oil" (cloudy gross oil) The engine does still run. However when we cracked it open the timing was off so that might have something to do with it, its fixed now though. I guess we'll see what happens. Should I just let it idle through a 1/2 tank?
 

kibble

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I think you said a key point: "new engine". That could explain it.
 

ineed2fly

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K so engine just stopped working, like ran fine, ran fine, ran fine, then stopped reving high and now when you start it, to even get an attempt at starting it needs to be on full throttle and it just makes sounds like a backfire 3 or 4 times and wont run.

I think I mite be screwed, I don't have the $ to buy an engine.
 

ineed2fly

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I don't think so, we lined it up, but i dont want to check cuz then I need to redo my gasket.
 

Russ2251

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I think I mite be screwed
Yup....sounds like it...
I was thinking just let it run thorough a tank of gas on idle.
This is a common but bad idea.
Letting it idle for long periods will screw around with how new parts 'wear in'. Some engine manuals call for a break-in period while others (most) do not and usually just amounts to making an early 1st oil change.
Most of the new push mowers run at 3600 rpms out of the box with no throttle control and will never idle during their lifetimes.
Best way to break-in is to run it in it's full throttle range and normal governed state for at least a few hours unless manual says otherwise. On-line manuals can be found at http://www.briggsandstratton.com/
 

ineed2fly

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Problem solved. I think the bore is OK because the engine isn't smoking so no oil is getting past the piston rings. I was trying to get it running and I heard a rattling under my valve cover. So I pulled it off, and the exhaust valve+nut had come completely off. Tightened it, gapped it, and it runs great!
 

ineed2fly

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For seriously! I just need to remember to take a ratchet set, allen wrench, cresent wrench, and spark plug gapper with me everytime I go, and keep it on the kart. Next to the little fire extingquisher, yes a fire extinguisher. IT LOOKS SO BA!!!! Mounted on the roll cage right were it should be. Is anyone else thinking sound system? :sifone:
 

ineed2fly

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Being that the engine didn't smoke I think it is just wearing the cylender down from a very tight factory fit. If the engine started to smoke I would be concerned. I will probaby put some restore inside though.
 

ineed2fly

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You put it in the oil and it fills scratches in the cylinder. Helps increase compression. Would it be better to run a better fuel than regular unleaded? Should I use unleaded premium? I've heard it doesn't make a difference at our altitude. (5280)
 
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