Kelly KDS48100E fried

[shakham]

Hi all,

I'm running a 24V 500W brushed motor in a razor gokart. It has the stock thumb controller.

The Kelly controller, KDS48100E blew up (see pic) and I'm not sure why. Has anybody dealt with this or have any ideas?

Kelly said it was "the power supply of the controller, probably due to high voltage". Unsure what could have done this. The only error that may have been made once is the RS232 cable was connected directly without using the dongle. That in itself at worst would have effected the serial chip to be affected.

Gokart is a simple Razor with a 24v 500W brushed motor. I'm using the standard setup with the contactor/resistor/diode.

I have a replacement, but just don't want to have this happen, so trying to figure this out. Kelly just states "follow the wiring diagram" not much else.

Appreciate any help.

PS: completely new here, so apologies if I haven't following a protocol that I'm supposed to.

 

[Functional Artist]

Howdy shakham, &

Um...I don't see any pics

The "red flag" that "jumps out" at me is:

You say that you are "running" a 24V 500W motor
...but, I believe a Kelly KDS48100E controller is for use with a 48V system

What voltage battery pack are you using?

 

[shakham]

Howdy shakham, &

Um...I don't see any pics

The "red flag" that "jumps out" at me is:

You say that you are "running" a 24V 500W motor
...but, I believe a Kelly KDS48100E controller is for use with a 48V system

What voltage battery pack are you using?

Hi, and thanks for replying .

Ah...I think I started the thread early and then sent it later, so it removed the pic. Just fixed it.

So the KDS48100E works with 24V-48V system.
I'm using pair of ERYY Lithium LiFePO4 Battery 12V 25AH wired in series, giving me 24V.

I'm using the brushed motor wiring (see attached), except for the fuses. Come to think of it, maybe putting at least the 2amp fuse would help.

I'm just checking if anybody has had this happen to them.

 

[Functional Artist]

OK, I see them now

Yup, ya "let out the magic smoke"

In the first pic, it looks like several things got "fried"

Do you know what those circuits were or do?

More questions:
1.) What made you change out the original SC?

2.) After installing the Kelly controller was the kart up & "running"?
...for hours?
...days?
...weeks?
...& then the SC got "fried"?
or
3.) The original SC got "fried"
...then, you installed the Kelly SC
...& it got "fried" quickly?

 

[shakham]

OK, I see them now

Yup, ya "let out the magic smoke"

In the first pic, it looks like several things got "fried"

Do you know what those circuits were or do?

More questions:
1.) What made you change out the original SC?

2.) After installing the Kelly controller was the kart up & "running"?
...for hours?
...days?
...weeks?
...& then the SC got "fried"?
or
3.) The original SC got "fried"
...then, you installed the Kelly SC
...& it got "fried" quickly?

Hard to know what the circuit does. I asked Kelly and they didn't give me any details. I'm thinking I'll open the new one and see what parts exist around there.

1) Original was 350W. The motor died, so put a 500W. Tried a few cheap chinese controllers, but they didn't seem to handle the current. The transistors kept frying. There were some issues with the connector not having a solid connection and actually heating up and warping. So eventually hard wired it so it wouldn't have that extra resistance due to the connector.

2) Kelly was working fine for maybe 2-3 months. My son had set to 70% speed. He wanted it faster, so he tried to connect to it with the PC to change a setting, and then it just stopped working.

Someone somewhere did make a mistake and try to connect the PC without the dongle at some point, and I know that that causes it to see UART voltages (+12V AC) when it's expecting 5V (TTL logic), but that shouldn't destroy the controller.

I'm going to recheck all the connectors and solder anything I can. This is kind of where I am at this point.

 

[Functional Artist]

Someone somewhere did make a mistake and try to connect the PC without the dongle at some point, and I know that that causes it to see UART voltages (+12V AC) when it's expecting 5V (TTL logic), but that shouldn't destroy the controller.

FWIU The components in most 5V circuits
...can handle a voltage range of somewhere around (~4V - ~6V)
&
12V is "double" what the components in that 5V circuit can handle
&
If the Logic "part" of the controller got "fried"
...the Power "part" may still be functional
...but, the controller still won't actually work