Trailmaster 150mid xrx starting problems...help please!

SnookAg

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Hello all, new member to the website here, first post.

I recently bought a used Trailmaster 150 mid xrx for my grand kids to run around our place on. In retrospect, I am sure I over paid for it, but that's water under the bridge.

Before I jump in to my problem, I want y'all to know that I did a forum search and read through a crap ton of threads, trying to get to the bottom of MY problem.

Now for my problem. It won't start. This machine appears to have an aftermarket carburetor, and when I bought it, it was running, but not now. I took the carb off and cleaned it thoroughly. I'm no pro, but I have dismantled a few in my day (lawn mowers, chain saws, etc.). Anyhow, I reassembled it and nothing. I replaced the spark plug, fuel lines, vacuum lines, cleaned the tank, cleaned the in tank filter, checked the wiring for obvious damage, double checked all are installed properly. I take photos before I take things apart. Frustration set in, so I got online and purchased a replacement in kind carb. Installed it, and ...nothing. Fuel filter appeared to have gas in it...nothing. While searching other threads on the subject, I came across one that said the gas tank might be vapor locked. So today I took the cap off, sprayed some starter fluid in the carb, and after some battery drainage, it started. I revved it, but I could tell that I didn't have the idle set properly, so when I let off the accelerator, it died. And has been dead ever since, I could not get it to fire. The only thing I haven't tried yet, is to make sure the intake manifold isn't leaking. I'll take it all apart again tomorrow, and inspect it, although it is new, came with the new carb.

Other than that, I am at my wits end, and any help that can be offered, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.
 

Hellion

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☝️ Seconded. Pics of the buggy and the engine would be nice, at the very minimum. Trained eyes here may find something amiss, but a video would be grand—and we have the technology for that. Anyway, Denny noted you didn’t mention a spark at all. You must confirm spark as well as:

Compression
Fuel
Spark
Timing

Any of these four could be the cause. I’m thinking it could be an electrical/spark issue as the wiring on these are rather substandard and always seem to be trashed on used buggies.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Guys it's a typical china kart.

They have several safety switches on them. Brake, neutral....
Some are NO some are NC. Normally open /closed.
Sometimes they get disconnected.

There are schematics online but they all lack. Colors arent correct. Some have different features. Find one similar and try to make the best of it.

If all else fails full harnesses can be had for pretty cheap.
In the spirit of DIY try to figure the issue before shotgun repairs.
 

Hellion

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That is what I was wondering, WTR. Figured such a kart in this new age of safety [trying to protect the Darwin Award folks from natural selection] would have multiple safety switches [cannot start it in gear/cannot start it without the seatbelts fastened, etc.] and maybe even a "deadman switch" on the seat or a tether switch if you get thrown out...

Be great to disable ALL that wiring garbage and reduce it to the absolute essentials.
 

SnookAg

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Thanks for the replies fellas. As I mentioned in the OP, it did start and run for about a minute or so, until I let off the gas. I probably didn't have the idle set correctly, hence it died. I am thinking it might be the intake manifold leaking and not drawing fuel through the carb. So I am going to take the carb off and look that piece over, and if I have to, I'll gunk it up with some form-a-gasket, then give that a go. Obviously if it ran, it's getting spark. I really think (to my limited knowledge) it has to be a vacuum issue, but again just a guess on my part.

As far as I can surmise, there are no safety switches beyond the brake pedal having to be depressed. I can hear it click while the key is on and I depress the pedal. No seat switches, no seat belt switches, so I'm gonna rule that out. It does have a kill button on the small dashboard.

I really appreciate all of your input, and trust me, I'm gonna ask for it. Let me try messing with it again, and I'll get back to y'all. I will try and take some pictures, and see if I can get them posted on this thread. Thanks again.
 

Hellion

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it did start and run for about a minute or so...

I meant to say to ensure that it has 100% spark all the time. The spark could be intermittent or cutting in and out due to a bad coil or a short in the wiring somewhere. Crazier things have been known to happen.

I'd get proper paper or composite carburetor/intake gaskets for it so you can service the thing without having to wait for RTV silicone to cure after you remove and reinstall the carburetor [like after a cleaning].
 

SnookAg

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Well fellas, I have some good news. I got it running! Now, let me preface my crazed way of thinking and let y'all know something I left out before. When I said that I had it running previously, I had the air filter off, and the box cover that houses all of the wiring off as well. That time it fired right up, and I thought, great I've got this sucker working. So, I put the whole darn thing back together, and tried to fire it up, all to no avail. That's when I reached out to this forum for help. Well today, after my previous post, I went to the auto parts store for some RTV, starter fluid and a 15 amp fuse. The previous owner ran it without a fuse :mad:. I got home and shot some starter fluid in the carb and it tried to start, but nothing. For the heck of it, I took the wiring box cover off, installed the fuse, jiggled the wires, got in and turned the key...VOILA! fired right up. I let it warm up, I had to keep giving it some gas, then I shut it down and adjusted the idle screw, and cranked it back up. I let it run some more while adjusting the idle, then I jumped in and took off. We have 11 acres, and I drove over it all. Anyway, I still have to do some adjusting, and figure out if I have a short somewhere in the wiring, but IT RUNS! I'll have to adjust the shift cables, but hopefully that'll be an easy fix.

Can't thank y'all enough for your input, and I'll keep posting my progress. I'm sure something will come up, and I'll be back for your input.

Thanks again!
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Awesome!
I had a hunch it was electrical. It always is with those.

Since you know it runs. Id go through the electric part and make better connections. They are known to be crappy. The pins will back out of the molex plug.
 

Hellion

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Darn it, still no photos. 😢🥲😄 BUT we have a resolution and closure for this little thread. Imagine that, a flippin' FUSE and janky wiring ...

I must assert that it's not a real go kart if it can be taken out by a fault in a mess of wires. These little Chinese buggies are killing the stellar reputation that go karts once enjoyed [my opinion]. Go karts were never meant to be this complicated and the only wiring you really need for a go kart to run and be reliable is a spark plug lead and a kill switch. Old fashioned recoil starting keeps the kart [and us] honest. 😉
 

SnookAg

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I'm back! Imagine that? Well After all of the excitement of my previous post that I had successfully got the darn thing started, I ran around on it that afternoon. Started and stopped it a few times, and felt pretty good about myself that I had whipped that things butt. Jumped on it the next day......and nothing. :mad: I messed with it for while, but ran out of time and patience, so it has been sitting there for the last week or so. But here I am again, humbly, with my hands out, asking for help again. I know you fellas want me to post pictures, and I'm trying to figure out how to do that, and I'll do that when I figure it out. Again, I have spark and fuel, pretty sure the intake manifold isn't leaking, but as I stated earlier, it has an aftermarket carb, with I believe, and electronic choke. Anyone have any experience with one of those?I guess I'll have to do a thorough inspecton of the wiring harness to see if there is a short somewhere.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read about my misery.
 

Hellion

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Oh. Did not expect you back after that miraculous recovery. Plus the site was down for 10 days or something so your post wasn’t seen. Can you explain what you mean by:
Jumped on it the next day......and nothing. :mad:

What did it do or not do? No lights on the dash, no cranking or turning over ❌🔄? Or does it turn over but no start?
Tell us more.

Photos may or may not actually help us fix your problem but they are so worth it. It’s far from actually being there in your garage with you kicking the tires but we have trained eyes and experts here that may be able to spot something amiss. Plus with a photo, we can point to things you need to check and test. I’d love to speculate and say it’s the choke since you mentioned it but that’s a shot in the dark. Electronic choke you say? :mad2:
 

SnookAg

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Guys, I'm back again (imagine that?). I wanted to let you fellas know that I have gotten the machine running. That's the good news. The bad news is that I cannot get it started without spraying some start up fluid into the carb. Once running, all is well. It will start up and run when the engine is warm, but I can't get it started from a cold start :mad:. And yes Hellion, it does have an electric choke. While looking through some parts catalogs online, I came across a manual choke cable that retrofits to this carb. I went ahead and purchased and installed it, but so far that doesn't work either.

Anyhow, that's where I'm at. Thanks in advance for any input.
 

Hellion

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Got pictures of the carb? I would guess it is not-very-adjustable but it might have an idle circuit adjustment. Try turning it out (the screw) counterclockwise. Post some photos, you owe us! :)

Image 12.jpeg
 

SnookAg

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I wanted to let you fellas know that I have gotten the machine running. That's the good news. The bad news is that I cannot get it started without spraying some start up fluid into the carb. Once running, all is well. It will start up and run when the engine is warm, but I can't get it started from a cold start. I bought and installed a manual choke cable that retrofits to this carb, but so far that doesn't work either. I'm beginning to think that when I turn it over, it's not creating enough vacuum to open the fuel valve under the tank to get some fuel into the carb. Because when I take the air cleaner off and spry some starter fluid in there, and it fires, the darn thing will start right up.

IMG_6893.jpeg
 

Karttekk

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I would replace the electric choke assembly. When these engines are started cold, the choke pintle or pin is retracted allowing extra fuel into the intake manifold. As the engine warms up, the pintle extends, slowly closing off the extra fuel to keep the engine from flooding. My guess is your choke is stuck in the extended position, not allowing extra fuel into the engine when cold. Replace the part and report back the results. Make sure the shut off lever on the fuel valve under the tank is open also.

 

SnookAg

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I would replace the electric choke assembly. When these engines are started cold, the choke pintle or pin is retracted allowing extra fuel into the intake manifold. As the engine warms up, the pintle extends, slowly closing off the extra fuel to keep the engine from flooding. My guess is your choke is stuck in the extended position, not allowing extra fuel into the engine when cold. Replace the part and report back the results. Make sure the shut off lever on the fuel valve under the tank is open also.

I bought and installed a manual choke cable that retrofits to this carb, but so far that doesn't work either. I'm beginning to think that when I turn it over, it's not creating enough vacuum to open the fuel valve under the tank to get some fuel into the carb.
This machine does not have a shut off lever on the fuel line coming from the fuel tank. It works by a vacuum hose coming from the carb to open the fuel line.
 
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