Fun Power Throttle Cable replacement

daveofds

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Connection to engine throttle. Cable must pass through a sleeve just large enough for cable wire alone to pass. This must then have a collar or ball to to keep the cable in place to pull against as the throttle is applied. How do I cut the cable so it does not fray? What can I use to attach a larger diameter collar or ball to the end of the cable? This is a very small place to get to and is directly below the gas tank.
 

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Hellion

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No ball is needed on the end, what you are missing is the Stop Screw #5929 that holds the cable.

Best way to cut cable is with a cut off wheel to prevent fraying. You may even try soldering the end of the cable, letting the solder wick in to “fortify” the cable strands, then cut it, but the heat from the cut off wheel (Dremel) sort of melts the strands into place sometimes. But manual wire cutters always seem to fray the end after you cut it.
 

Hellion

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1762363909710.jpeg
 
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Hellion

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If you cannot find the stop screw by itself, then the whole Briggs 692316 kit will have the screw, plus the cable retainer screw, and the kit is just good to have around for spares especially if you’re a Briggs flatty fanatic. Don't pay $19.65 for it though, that's manufacturer suggested retail price probably.


Here's a photo of how it should look and an illustration with assembly instructions. The Briggs governor/throttle control is one of the least understood aspects of these engines.

Image 136.jpeg
Image 137.jpeg
 
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daveofds

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Thanks for the diagrams and information. I ended up cutting the barrel on the other end off and threading it through the cable stop and then back through the cable sheath again. Even though I used wire cutters it didn’t fray. I didn’t need the barrel for the linkage to the pedal, but did have to remove some of the sheathing to make the length correct.
 

daveofds

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If you cannot find the stop screw by itself, then the whole Briggs 692316 kit will have the screw, plus the cable retainer screw, and the kit is just good to have around for spares especially if you’re a Briggs flatty fanatic. Don't pay $19.65 for it though, that's manufacturer suggested retail price probably.


Here's a photo of how it should look and an illustration with assembly instructions. The Briggs governor/throttle control is one of the least understood aspects of these engines.

View attachment 157659
View attachment 157660
My
If you cannot find the stop screw by itself, then the whole Briggs 692316 kit will have the screw, plus the cable retainer screw, and the kit is just good to have around for spares especially if you’re a Briggs flatty fanatic. Don't pay $19.65 for it though, that's manufacturer suggested retail price probably.


Here's a photo of how it should look and an illustration with assembly instructions. The Briggs governor/throttle control is one of the least understood aspects of these engines.

View attachment 157659
View attachment 157660
I rebuilt the carb and can control the throttle with the arm on top of the carb, but the actual throttle below the tank has little to no effect on the engine speed.
 

daveofds

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I am apparently missing a linkage from the throttle mechanism to the governor or somewhere else. When I move the lever on top of the carb it accelerates with no problem. When I push the throttle there is little to no effect. In the picture you can see the back of the throttle body plate that there is a hole with no linkage attached. I now have spring on the carb fuel control that was not on when I took the pic of the top of the carb.
PS - I somehow got two posts with the same title.GOVERNOR:THROTTLE LINKAGE.jpegTOP OF CARB.jpegIMG_4598.jpegIMG_4597.jpeg
 
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Hellion

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It's a thicker steel rod that you appear to be missing. "Donyboy73" shows it at about 1:29 and puts his finger on it at 1:50 in this video....

 

Hellion

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Pretty sure that missing rod is "691813 ROD, Governor Control"

What is the engine code stamped into your blower housing? Some of the late model engines have an ID tag riveted to the front right above the recoil starter assembly with electropenciled numbers on it in a dot matrix style. The engine should have a number that begins like "13####" followed by a bunch of other alpha numeric characters. Post those for us so we can determine the proper parts.
 

daveofds

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Thanks for the help Hellion!. If I could only find that linkage!! I will look into the kit you referenced.

Engine type 1826E1
Model 136212
code: 970623yaIMG_4508.jpeg
 
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daveofds

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Pretty sure that missing rod is "691813 ROD, Governor Control"

What is the engine code stamped into your blower housing? Some of the late model engines have an ID tag riveted to the front right above the recoil starter assembly with electropenciled numbers on it in a dot matrix style. The engine should have a number that begins like "13####" followed by a bunch of other alpha numeric characters. Post those for us so we can determine the proper parts.

It's a thicker steel rod that you appear to be missing. "Donyboy73" shows it at about 1:29 and puts his finger on it at 1:50 in this video....

 

daveofds

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I have a different throttle control. I do not see where the heavier rod I am missing connects to the governor.
 

Hellion

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Thanks for the help Hellion!. If I could only find that linkage!! I will look into the kit you referenced.

Engine type 1826E1 Model 136212 code: 970623ya

Item number 208 on this diagram:

208​
691813​
ROD, Governor Control
$7.59​

https://www.propartsdirect.net/brig...136212-1026-E1/Controls/1362121026E1/07050009

I have a different throttle control. I do not see where the heavier rod I am missing connects to the governor.

I can't see either! I think you are missing that bellcrank where the heavier rod connects. It's in the video and it is screwed into the side of the carburetor.
 

Hellion

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That bellcrank assembly comprising parts #153, #256, #1012, #414, #153 goes where the dotted red line goes. I'm going off memory and my 5 horse Briggs is hibernating in the shed. Maybe one of our members here can help, those that have done a governor delete but still have the parts? @Thepartsguy is a Briggs fan.

The rod part 208A snaps into the plastic ferrule 1012 as seen in that video. Guess the previous owner took all that off. The aftermarket $17 Chinese Pulsa-Jet carburetors do not include this bellcrank.
Image 159.jpeg
 

bushj

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Thanks for the help Hellion!. If I could only find that linkage!! I will look into the kit you referenced.

Engine type 1826E1
Model 136212
code: 970623yaView attachment 157847
Item number 208 on this diagram:

208​
691813​
ROD, Governor Control
$7.59​

https://www.propartsdirect.net/briggs-and-stratton-parts-diagrams.aspx?aribrand=BRG#/Briggs_&_Stratton/136212-1026-E1/Controls/1362121026E1/07050009



I can't see either! I think you are missing that bellcrank where the heavier rod connects. It's in the video and it is screwed into the side of the carburetor.
What was the solution to your issue? I have the same issue. my kart does not have any of the parts described in the video or diagram to actuate the throttle. I have the governor linkage but nothing that goes from the linkage under the tank to the carb. The carb does not have the extra linkage either it only has the linkage for the govenor. I'm thinking about just by-passing the govenor and using after market parts for the throttle linkage
 

bushj

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I can get parts but I wanted to know the solution that davofds used. I have model 100252, type 0049-01, code 77081607. Carb and assembly looks just like davofds's pictures from Nov 11, 2025. My cart was not running when I got it so I don't know the history
 
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