Mini '33 Ford Pickup

[Jamie P]

I figured I'd start my first build thread. I've been watching you guys post stuff for years, and I've been messing with this project off and on for a while.

Years ago I had a real 1933 Ford pickup that I started to turn into a hot rod, with the help of my father. I didn't get far and sold the project. Now I regret that decision, and the real deal is too expensive to build. I guess that's why I'm building a mini version. I figure I'll take it to car shows with my dad when he shows his hot rod woodie. It will be something fun for the kids to look at. Really, I have no idea why I do these things. I guess it's fun to see what I can create when I put my mind to it.

These 10 photos show the progression of the project from the infancy of the idea to how it looks now. I started by making a cardboard and joint compound original cab then made a 6-part mold of it. I honestly had no idea if it was going to work, but I was able to successfully cast a fiberglass cab. It wasn't perfect, but after some rough bodywork it looked passable.

Since I was able to cast a cab, I moved on to the next step, which was building the frame. The shape and look of the frame is critical to these pickups, with all its curves and bends. A normal, tubular frame would have taken 1/10th of the time that this took to build, but it wouldn't have looked right.

The next step was to turn it into a rolling chassis, which I've nearly completed. I had a hiccup with one front tire, which I'll explain in another post. At this point I think I'm going to push pause on this project to focus on the Sears (Manco) kart that you can see in the background for scale. That one will take less time to complete vs what's left on the pickup. I'd like to have something that actually drives for next spring.

The last photo shows an ugly cartoon of the remaining steps, because you're probably wondering how the heck does a person drive this. The steering column will enter through the firewall, turn at a u-joint, and exit through the roof with a handlebar with twist throttle and hand brake. The driver will sit above the engine in the back, on a minibike seat, and the driver's feet will rest on foot pegs at the center of the frame rails. I'm 99.9% sure I'll need a wheelie bar as well because most of the weight is located just in front of the rear axle.

Next steps include fabricating a bed, a frame for the seat, a grille shell and hood, steering, and completing bodywork.

I'm not a professional welder or bodyman, so please take it easy on my workmanship, but I welcome technical advice and thoughts on the mechanical side of things. I'm learning as I go. Building something presentable out of a pile of thrown away junk is new territory for me. It's rewarding and fun... except for the mess from fiberglass. I'm not doing anymore fiberglass after this project!

 

[Jamie P]

I had a nightmare of an experience with front wheels and tires. I bought them separately because I got a great deal and didn't realize at the time that Gopowersports sells mounted tires. I have since bought mounted tires for the back.

I called every ATV shop for miles, and nobody would mount the tires for me. One shop recommended a guy who races go karts who may be able to help me. He was willing, and we worked together to mount both tires. One was impossible to inflate due to a deformation in the rubber. I spent so much time trying to get that stupid tire back off. I gave up and cut it off with a grinder.

I bought a replacement tire, but I lost the guy's phone number. Plus, after the headache of the first go-around I didn't want to bother him again anyway.

I built a stand to hold the rim while I mounted the tire. There is no way on this earth that the tire will go on. No way. There is a heavy steel belt that runs around the wheel opening, and all the prying and pushing does nothing except tear the rubber off the belt Now the tire is destroyed, and the rim is mutilated. The belt is much stronger than the rim.

I threw it in the back of the shed, and I'll have to spend the money to buy mounted tires from Gopowersports, or I'll look harder for split rims that match the solid rims on the back.

What a nightmare and a waste of money! Don't do what I did!

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Outstanding! Keep updating us please.

 

[Denny]

Put the engine under the hood! That little cab is beautiful, the frame looks real. What a great job! Me, I would have made it big enough to sit inside. But that’s just me.
This feels so wrong to say out loud but, let’s see a picture of your dad’s woody. We like cars too!

 

[Hellion]

I'd make it radio control; it'd take a very small kid to fit inside much less appreciate it and sitting behind it only works on those mini steam trains that fat men ride...

Aside from all that, it truly looks like a stellar effort so far.

 

[Grizzlymi]

Very cool project! I'm a sucker for making scale replica's of projects we want in 1:1. I've been doing this with RC vehicles recently.

My only question is where does the operator go?

 

[Denny]

My only question is where does the operator go?

In the operating room. Duhhhh!

 

[Grizzlymi]

Set myself up for that one.

 

[Hellion]

One was impossible to inflate due to a deformation in the rubber.

Even to mount full size auto tires one needs some heavy duty equipment that is solidly mounted or bolted to the floor but I didn't see any tire spoons in your photos. I've mounted tubeless go kart tires before with no real issue and I didn't even have a threaded spindle.... I'm not boasting, just thinking.

Dealing with deformed tires is easier I'll concede. Seems like sellers ship them mashed flat so they'll fit in a smaller box. I use the fire method. Check KartFab on Youtube or here, he's one of us. I think he used slightly too much fluid, I only spray on one side:

 

[Denny]

It’s a schrader valve, not a popit valve. Come on Grant, do better.

 

[panchothedog]

Take it easy on your workmanship? That thing is cool. You got nothing to be ashamed of. Don't know what I like best. The cab, or the frame. Keep those pictures coming as work progresses. Nice job.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

A set of 4-green Walmart prybars with the edges ground down. Not a single tire I havnt been able to change with those things.

It takes A LOT of practice man. A LOT! Once you get the hang of it, everyone will look at you like you have superpowers.

You should see how people look at you when you only use your hands and feet to mount it LOL!

As Sir Hellion said, no bragging, just one of those things where skill comes with much practice.

 

[Jamie P]

I'd make it radio control; it'd take a very small kid to fit inside much less appreciate it and sitting behind it only works on those mini steam trains that fat men ride...

Aside from all that, it truly looks like a stellar effort so far.

That would be a very small kid indeed! I'll be sitting behind the cab like a fat guy on a train! See the mock-up in the photo.

 

[Jamie P]

Put the engine under the hood! That little cab is beautiful, the frame looks real. What a great job! Me, I would have made it big enough to sit inside. But that’s just me.
This feels so wrong to say out loud but, let’s see a picture of your dad’s woody. We like cars too!

Here's the best pic I can find of the woody at the moment. The only thing left to complete is the blue paint.

 

[Denny]

Going to be a looker when done!

 

[Jamie P]

I've been making a little progress on the '33 Ford mini-truck. I'll have some progress photos soon.

The photo below is the brake caliper that came with the rear axle kit I bought. I have it all mounted to the frame, but now I'm questioning whether it will work well enough. My plan was to use a hand brake with a cable. My question for you guys, before I buy more parts and install them, is will a hand lever and cable generate enough force to make this an effective brake? I'm about 200 lb, and I'm guessing the kart will weigh another 200 lb when it's done.

Other options would be to build a foot pedal for use with this caliper or buy a hydraulic hand brake. Both of those options would add a fair amount of work, but that's fine. I just want to be able to stop well.

Thoughts?

 

[Hellion]

Which option is more aesthetically pleasing, foot or handle? This is a mini truck so having pedals would seem legit but it may mess up the exterior aesthetic where your feet are. Wait, are you making running boards? Be neat to have a pedal rising out of the running board, mimicking the way they rise out of the actual floor inside the cab.

I think most of the issues people have, and that don't know any better, is having the mechanical caliper adjusted way wrong. They have the brake pucks out of contact with the disc instead of lightly dragging ON it like 1:1 cars do and so you hear them say that caliper is total junk. I think the cable needs to be stout cable, about motorcycle diameter specification, to avoid stretch and springiness or outright failure; no Schwinn bicycle department store type.

 

[Jamie P]

Which option is more aesthetically pleasing, foot or handle? This is a mini truck so having pedals would seem legit but it may mess up the exterior aesthetic where your feet are. Wait, are you making running boards? Be neat to have a pedal rising out of the running board, mimicking the way they rise out of the actual floor inside the cab.

I think most of the issues people have, and that don't know any better, is having the mechanical caliper adjusted way wrong. They have the brake pucks out of contact with the disc instead of lightly dragging in it like 1:1 cars do and so you hear them say that caliper is total junk. I think the cable needs to be stout cable, about motorcycle diameter specification, to avoid stretch and springiness or outright failure; no Schwinn bicycle department store type.

Thanks, Hellion. To me the hand brake looks a lot better. Plus the foot brake would add weight and complexity, where a simple cable doesn't require much effort. I was just concerned that a mechanical hand brake wouldn't make enough force.

 

[Jamie P]

I've added a little truck bed.

 

[Denny]

Looks cool! But I would use steel rods instead of cables for the brakes. Cables stretch too much and too easily. You can also add to the arm on the caliper to make it longer for more braking force.