New to Go karts
- Thread starter sludlow
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Thanks again
i watched a video where a guy used a self tapping bolt to cover hole from governor removal.Nice & quick tutorial
...with pics
I'ma likein' it
panchothedog
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Post # 20 is almost 100% correct. The hole where the bent rod was can be plugged without tapping. Get a 1" long 1/4 X 28 bolt. Add some blue thread locker and with a little bit of pressure to get it started it will cut its own threads as you tighten it. I have done this to at least 7 predator engines, and can assure you that it works. Also the nylon geared wheel ( and everything attached to it ) can be driven out of the engine block quite easily. A nail set or small diameter punch, A couple of light taps with a hammer and the whole shebang comes out. Lots faster than trying to disassemble the gear. Plug the hole with the same size bolt only use a 1/2" for the length. FWIW, this is pretty common knowledge for building a predator or clone engine. Also the oil sensor wires can be cut on both sides of where it enters the block, and leave the original plug as is. Then remove the sensor and throw in trash. If you want to pull the plug from the block, then you will need a 7/16 X 20 X 3/4" bolt. This will not work the same. You will need the corresponding tap and drill bit. Makes a mess inside the block. Easier to just cut the wires on both sides. When punching the gear out, it is from the outside in.
Edwin Spangler
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I have an even easier way to remove the gov and keep the stock throttle linkage so you dont have that to figure out.
Cut the gov arm just below the keeper tabs....
Cut the gov arm just below the keeper tabs....
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Edwin Spangler
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Nothing really.. If there is any leftover linkage going to the butterfly valve, then it will actuate it, which is the goal here.
Youre not asking about leaving the entire governor arm in, right? Dont do that.
Here is my throttle linkage with the governor removed internally.
Edwin Spangler
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Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
I would remove the governor arm completely.
Look what was holding it in place.
Not much.
Look what was holding it in place.
Not much.
Yes, follow the great instructions above and completely remove all the governor components and plug the hole as said above. I would remove the oil sensor completely and plug the hole as well while you have the crankcase off. I do this to all my Pred 212's.
Hellion
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I see the governor gear (white plastic) is still in place. Remove it bro! We don't need that white gear just spinning freely doing nothing while still connected (geared) to the crankshaft. The governor is designed to run at a typical 3600 revs and not much over that. It's a liability and if it should disintegrate while the engine is running, you'll have broken bits of a very tough and hard plastic all over the inside, plus the centrifugal weights (steel) and whatever else is on the governor gear's shaft.
Don't put the bolts back in that hold the oil sensor in place (unless the oil sensor holes go all the way through to the outside of the crankcase, but they shouldn't). Keep the bolts if you want, hardware is hardware.
Well it was from Whitetrashrocker. What'd you expect?
Don't put the bolts back in that hold the oil sensor in place (unless the oil sensor holes go all the way through to the outside of the crankcase, but they shouldn't). Keep the bolts if you want, hardware is hardware.
Nice & quick tutorial
...with pics
I'ma likein' it
Well it was from Whitetrashrocker. What'd you expect?
Hellion
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I don't 'know' Predator/Honda/clone engine governors that well, but I do know Briggs and Tecumseh flatheads and it is undesirable to have the governor gear removed but the arm/paddle left in place and just happily flopping around (rotating) inside the crankcase...
Since the arm/paddle has nothing to rest on anymore, it can rotate into the reciprocating crankshaft and hit it or the bottom end of the connecting rod. This is not good.
Remove the arm and plug the hole with a nice bolt. I think a 1/4"-20 bolt will fit if not the next size up. Maybe a self tapping bolt would be best (so you don't have to rush out and buy a 1/4"-20 tap) and simply drive it into the existing hole and be sure to remove any metal shavings that you create. A thread locker/sealant is a good idea too, to coat the bolt threads with. You want a tight fit.
Since the arm/paddle has nothing to rest on anymore, it can rotate into the reciprocating crankshaft and hit it or the bottom end of the connecting rod. This is not good.
Remove the arm and plug the hole with a nice bolt. I think a 1/4"-20 bolt will fit if not the next size up. Maybe a self tapping bolt would be best (so you don't have to rush out and buy a 1/4"-20 tap) and simply drive it into the existing hole and be sure to remove any metal shavings that you create. A thread locker/sealant is a good idea too, to coat the bolt threads with. You want a tight fit.
Can it be removed without taking the other side of motor off?I see the governor gear (white plastic) is still in place. Remove it bro! We don't need that white gear just spinning freely doing nothing while still connected (geared) to the crankshaft. The governor is designed to run at a typical 3600 revs and not much over that. It's a liability and if it should disintegrate while the engine is running, you'll have broken bits of a very tough and hard plastic all over the inside, plus the centrifugal weights (steel) and whatever else is on the governor gear's shaft.
Don't put the bolts back in that hold the oil sensor in place (unless the oil sensor holes go all the way through to the outside of the crankcase, but they shouldn't). Keep the bolts if you want, hardware is hardware.
Well it was from Whitetrashrocker. What'd you expect?
Edwin Spangler
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With my setup though, that big arm is clamped to that shaft, preventing it from falling.
What is the standard throttle setup if plugging the hole? Honestly not fully satisfied with how I have it now
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Straight to the carb.
panchothedog
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You don't have to take anything else apart. In post # 24 I described how to remove the plastic gear and everything connected to it. Drive it out of the engine block and then plug with a short bolt. It doesn't take a lot of force to drive out the shaft that the governor wheel is mounted on. Your not going to break or damage your engine. If you don't have a nail set or a punch of the correct size, you could probably grind off the point of a 16 penny nail and use that as your punch. When you ask about taking the other side of the motor ( engine ) off, there is no other side of the engine to take off. You will have to remove the flywheel to gain access to the governor shaft. If you are not able to do that, then pick the thing apart from the inside. Just make sure you get EVERYTHING. Do not leave the gear in your engine. It is a engine crippling accident just waiting to happen.
Edwin Spangler
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Have you ever tried that? It was impossible for my kids and me to make usable, precise adjustments with the pedal connected directly to the butterfly valve. Even after playing with a couple springs in between the pedal and throttle, still couldnt "start off slow" no matter how hard you tried.
Is this a commonly used method because if so, I think Im doing something wrong with it.
I think Im about to just order a Nibbi instead.
Hellion
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Did you drive the governor gearshaft out of the block from outside the crankcase (thus taking out the whole governor assembly as a unit) or did you pry the gear up and out from the inside? Just looking at the best methods here.
There's online people struggling with this task but I think you can easily pry out the plastic gear and overpower the small "C" clip that holds the assembly together or as this guy did, spread the "C" clip apart with picks... (8:50 time stamp)
Driving out the shaft just makes another hole to fill and more work in my opinion, especially for a newbie that doesn't have their father's workshop and a vast supply of tools and parts to pull from.
None of mine use the gas tank mounted to the motor, so I have always used the ARC top plate in place of the tank with the throttle setup it comes with.
A few I had that I didn't remove the tank, I rigged the throttle up with an old bicycle brake cantilever brake bend in the throttle clamp for a guide and mount. If that makes sense? Wish I had a picture......