Belt slipping. Wack gear ratio?

Redneckarts

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I say flip the driven over the way is was designed, line belt up with driver.

What size belt is that???
It don't look wide enough on the driver.

8" tall tire, 3:1 gear, under a gov'ed engine..... will be lucky to hit 30 mph.
I’ll do that. Likely put a smaller sprocket on top then see what it does. I think I have an 8 tooth laying around. The engine has gov delete and stiffer valve springs. Old kart it was on had a 12 tooth and 52 tooth and it hit 45mph on that
 

BrownStainRacing

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I’ll do that. Likely put a smaller sprocket on top then see what it does. I think I have an 8 tooth laying around. The engine has gov delete and stiffer valve springs. Old kart it was on had a 12 tooth and 52 tooth and it hit 45mph on that
Scroll down til you see how the 40 series should be mounted. The way you have it, the belt is going in a different direction in driver, causing it to go too far down in the driven and hanging up. I'm surprised the belt is still good.

A gov deleted big block can get nasty.

 

BaconBitRacing

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I’ll do that. Likely put a smaller sprocket on top then see what it does. I think I have an 8 tooth laying around. The engine has gov delete and stiffer valve springs. Old kart it was on had a 12 tooth and 52 tooth and it hit 45mph on that
Oh and one question, is that a Genuine Comet belt? Or is it a Yak grease and rice fiber China belt? The Comet ones last much longer.
 

Snaker

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I say flip the driven over the way is was designed, line belt up with driver.

What size belt is that???
It don't look wide enough on the driver.

8" tall tire, 3:1 gear, under a gov'ed engine..... will be lucky to hit 30 mph.
Hard to say from the photo, but I'm not sure he has the room to flip the driven with that cast in jackshaft housing and still have room for all that movable sheave mechanism and to be able to align with the drive pulley.
Won't hurt to try I guess.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Hard to say from the photo, but I'm not sure he has the room to flip the driven with that cast in jackshaft housing and still have room for all that movable sheave mechanism and to be able to align with the drive pulley.
Won't hurt to try I guess.
Yea, I seen it earlier. May have to move the jackshaft mount over.

I forgot about the 40 can be reversed.
Here's the spring to run it the way it is now.

 

panchothedog

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I can hardly believe all of the guessing, gear ratio, flip the clutch around and other ( SORRY ) useless comments being made hear. Look at the picture of his driven clutch. With the kart sitting stationary it is sitting there wide open with the belt sagging into the middle. Those sheaves should be slammed shut together. So tight it would take a very strong person to separate them. It is either so gummed up it can't close, or the spring is broken or has slipped. I gave what I thought was a very detailed explanation in post #14 and ALL of you, some who I thought knew better are continuing to suggest remedies that
have nothing to do with the problem. As it sits right now tire size, sprocket tooth count, and belt alignment are not his problem. Are they points for fine tuning, of course. But for right now lets help him get the thing moving.
 

BaconBitRacing

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I can hardly believe all of the guessing, gear ratio, flip the clutch around and other ( SORRY ) useless comments being made hear. Look at the picture of his driven clutch. With the kart sitting stationary it is sitting there wide open with the belt sagging into the middle. Those sheaves should be slammed shut together. So tight it would take a very strong person to separate them. It is either so gummed up it can't close, or the spring is broken or has slipped. I gave what I thought was a very detailed explanation in post #14 and ALL of you, some who I thought knew better are continuing to suggest remedies that
have nothing to do with the problem. As it sits right now tire size, sprocket tooth count, and belt alignment are not his problem. Are they points for fine tuning, of course. But for right now lets help him get the thing moving.
Thank you Pancho. I was getting ahead of myself and not seeing the obvious. In my book, no need to say sorry for correcting me
 

panchothedog

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Hey Redneck. In your 2nd picture of post #1 where the driven is actually closed
the points of the cam are on the backside of the plastic stops.They need to be on the front side. You will have to install a reverse wound spring to achieve that.
I know that OMB Warehouse sells them. Probably many other places as well.
I will stand Corrected and omit that if you took Dennys advice and flipped it 180
the orientation would be correct but it looks like your alignment might be all out of wack. Also you still have the problem that when the clutch is stationary it must be closed. The new reversed spring is about $15 and will cure both issues.
 

Snaker

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Panch, ya gotta read and pay attention before you start lashing out at people.
The OP mentioned in post #1 that the belt was caught in the pulley.
Another photo in that same series shows the pulley without the belt and the pulley closed???
Unless your getting PM's suggesting different, that should have been enough of a clue for you.

I mentioned way back that the driven pulley cam was misoriented???

It would be great if the driven could be swapped, that would be best function, right????
But its hard to say from the photos if proper CVT alignment could happen, right????

Several people out there have flipped the 40 series drive pulley to get the proper CVT configuration when the driven can't be flipped for whatever reason. They say it works good.
That is for the 40 series. People have said that the 44 series drive pulley cannot be flipped due to design.
Maybe there are some crankshafts that won't allow it as well??????

The spring: Red spring. I can't tell the spring wind from the photo, can you???
I'm not sure if red is a guarantied standard for wind across all brands, are you????

This is supposed to be a forum where people contribute and all are welcome.
Sure there is wrong info that gets passed around, and there are ways to debate that without being caustic.
Come on man. Do better.
 

Redneckarts

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Just flipped the spring direction and put a 9 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t wanna run away anymore on startup. It skips cuz it needs a half link but it’s AMAZING. thank you guys so much for your advice. It’s ripping the tires loose at any speed so I can hold drifts with it. Crazy amount of power and fun. Next step is seat and harness
 

BaconBitRacing

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Just flipped the spring direction and put a 9 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t wanna run away anymore on startup. It skips cuz it needs a half link but it’s AMAZING. thank you guys so much for your advice. It’s ripping the tires loose at any speed so I can hold drifts with it. Crazy amount of power and fun. Next step is seat and harness
Good! I’m glad the gear ratio is giving you good power, I guess big-block does the trick. Can you adjust the engine or no room? Maybe you don’t need a half link, some members here haven’t had the best experience with them.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Just flipped the spring direction and put a 9 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t wanna run away anymore on startup. It skips cuz it needs a half link but it’s AMAZING. thank you guys so much for your advice. It’s ripping the tires loose at any speed so I can hold drifts with it. Crazy amount of power and fun. Next step is seat and harness
Let's see some 🔥burnout🔥 pics !!!!!!!!
 

BrownStainRacing

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Good! I’m glad the gear ratio is giving you good power, I guess big-block does the trick. Can you adjust the engine or no room? Maybe you don’t need a half link, some members here haven’t had the best experience with them.
Putting out 26 ft/lbs of torque, does not take much gear to bust those small tires loose. Jus think, a stock 212 pred hemi puts out 9.5 ft/lb of torque, 😆 🤣 😂 😹, now you see, why I said "no need in big gearing" earlier.
Screenshot_20230422_145130_Chrome.jpg
 

Redneckarts

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Good! I’m glad the gear ratio is giving you good power, I guess big-block does the trick. Can you adjust the engine or no room? Maybe you don’t need a half link, some members here haven’t had the best experience with them.
So gear ratio is 4 rn. 9 tooth to 36 tooth. It rips but I badly need to replace these tires. I have a 10 tooth that I might put on and see how that feels. Moved the spring so it doesn’t open when pulled. Also moved the jackshaft enough so no need for half link and tc is at proper CD now. Excited to show you all some of my other karts and their problems in the future. (One of them is a kz750 full cage kart).
 

Redneckarts

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So gear ratio is 4 rn. 9 tooth to 36 tooth. It rips but I badly need to replace these tires. I have a 10 tooth that I might put on and see how that feels. Moved the spring so it doesn’t open when pulled. Also moved the jackshaft enough so no need for half link and tc is at proper CD now. Excited to show you all some of my other karts and their problems in the future. (One of them is a kz750 full cage kart).
Here’s a link to a short vid of riding it:
 

BrownStainRacing

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Here’s a link to a short vid of riding it:
It's slick out there. Sounds like it's pi$$ed off and jus wants to rip those tires off. 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆 🤣

Big blocks with stock internal parts are outta breath around 4500 rpm. They make all their power down low. They get really wild when you start adding bigger carbs, cams, and compression ratio. I don't think you gonna need any of that, you got it going on now. 👍
 

Redneckarts

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It's slick out there. Sounds like it's pi$$ed off and jus wants to rip those tires off. 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆 🤣

Big blocks with stock internal parts are outta breath around 4500 rpm. They make all their power down low. They get really wild when you start adding bigger carbs, cams, and compression ratio. I don't think you gonna need any of that, you got it going on now. 👍
So as far as all the modifications: 50lb valve springs, gov delete, drilled jets, straight pipe with screw-on muffler, lightened flywheel. It’s plenty for my application. I’d guess around 20-22hp.
 
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