5hp tiller engine

[Thepartsguy]

The margay has a split sprocket hub so no axle removal to switch from 35 chain to 40 chain. Just unbolt the split sprocket move the hub over and bolt on the new 40 chain split sprocket. and the torque converter might point straight up or get flat out mounted backwards. I’ll need one more 14t c-sprocket and I bet it holds up with the 8hp’s.. I’m really wondering if I try to go mike clements laydown style. that would make it so easy to point a billet eBay tilly intake and Clone tilly carb with a pulse pump straight up. I could keep the Honda tank and pulse pump. And open up more space with the 90 mount.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

The margay has a split sprocket hub so no axle removal to switch from 35 chain to 40 chain. Just unbolt the split sprocket move the hub over and bolt on the new 40 chain split sprocket. and the torque converter might point straight up or get flat out mounted backwards. I’ll need one more 14t c-sprocket and I bet it holds up with the 8hp’s.. I’m really wondering if I try to go mike clements laydown style. that would make it so easy to point a billet eBay tilly intake and Clone tilly carb with a pulse pump straight up. I could keep the Honda tank and pulse pump. And open up more space with the 90 mount.View attachment 136999View attachment 137002

Where do you drive your karts? Country roads? That Margay is nice looking, should be fun with a good ole' flattie.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Where do you drive your karts? Country roads? That Margay is nice looking, should be fun with a good ole' flattie.

Miles from home before we turn around.. I’m talking like 12-15 mile trips there and back with a small spare fuel supply and a tow rope.. all over the back county all day long..

 

[Thepartsguy]

Score #1 look at the crank! what a gamble could of pulled it and it be completely thrashed! It looks new! Now to get it to the shop mic it throw some plastigauge across everything and get it torqued down. that is the one part I cannot (ahem will not do)

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Miles from home before we turn around.. I’m talking like 12-15 mile trips there and back with a small spare fuel supply and a tow rope.. all over the back county all day long..

Man I'm jealous of that. I've got a field out back but some rough woods to get there. I might not be able to get out there till I get a T/Q. No wonder why you're so top speed obsessed...

 

[Thepartsguy]

Man I'm jealous of that. I've got a field out back but some rough woods to get there. I might not be able to get out there till I get a T/Q. No wonder why you're so top speed obsessed...

we have a grade with a bridge at the top.. hold the clutched karts wide open throttle till we get to the bridge. it’s just enough of a grade to make the engines lug and give you that slight uphill NEVER STOPS MAKING POWER race to the top. i hit the right pothole and my back gets angry at me.. I couldn’t imagine a field on the streaker..

 

[BaconBitRacing]

we have a grade with a bridge at the top.. hold the clutched karts wide open throttle till we get to the bridge. it’s just enough of a grade to make the engines lug and give you that slight uphill NEVER STOPS MAKING POWER race to the top. i hit the right pothole and my back gets angry at me.. I couldn’t imagine a field on the streaker..

The issue is it's super narrow and right now I'm working on widening it so I can go through faster (and safer). If I have to I can push it up, it's not too far, I'd just rather ride.

 

[Thepartsguy]

some light disassembly and into the dishwasher. or I mean outside in the yard for a bath.. I have a big pack of very soft polishing wheels and I’m gonna go heavy as I can with checking clearances and making sure everything is real nice and shiny for assembly. I just feel like it’s a used tiller engine. If I can put it back together and everything mic’s/plasti gauges ok and I have everything clean enough it could be a nice little engine when it’s built.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Running barrel cleaners through the threads and through any open ports/holes.. everything has gotten multiple baths and will probably get one more before finale assembly. installing the piston onto the arc rod was simple. I’m gonna call down to the shop tomorrow to get a time that he can torque down the rod and help me check some clearances.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I never seen "tiller drag racin" before, I'm excited. Lol

 

[Thepartsguy]

I never seen "tiller drag racin" before, I'm excited. Lol

This is in fact sort of a thing and they are extremely fast. the way I remember the actual tiller race video was there was just to posts welded on with flat squares one for each foot. and like a normal tiller you just hold the handles and the throttle is on the right handle. I can’t be sure the video wasn’t sped up but I can say they were not using Briggs engines.. very high revving two strokes. Edit ok ya rototiller racing world championship 2015...

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@Thepartsguy
Any updates??? I've been looking everyday.
I grew up running the b&s 5hp flatty.

 

[Thepartsguy]

@Thepartsguy
Any updates??? I've been looking everyday.
I grew up running the b&s 5hp flatty.

no progress until Monday most likely. the piston is back off the rod though. I was gonna slam it together and hope. One of the neighbors said to bring it down Monday so we can plasti gauge the rod on the crank.

 

[Thepartsguy]

the rod did not crush down to expand enough to .002 it crushed down closer to but not exactly .003 so that would be anywhere between .002 and .003 Lovly! everything in the bath and into the block.

 

[Thepartsguy]

You wanna scramble someones thoughts go on a forum and show them pictures of a crank mic’d to slightly bigger then .003 but not as big as .002 now I understand why the guy had questions... edit: he had me questioning myself on that one.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Everything was cleaned and torqued then installed. I put the side case on and had to test a few different gaskets to get the right crank end play while torquing down the side cover.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Ive built sbc’s and it wasn’t this nerve wracking... but this is one time I do not feel as if anything went together poorly or in a sketchy way. everything was clean oiled during assembly and I turned it over by hand twice and it seemed very free and smooth. when I let go of the crank the second time it rocked backwards a bit on it’s own. I’m reading the raptor/junior dragster pages and it sounds like straight 30w for break in the protect it with t4 kart oil? any recommendations? I’ll pay up for good oil.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Ive built sbc’s and it wasn’t this nerve wracking... but this is one time I do not feel as if anything went together poorly or in a sketchy way. everything was clean oiled during assembly and I turned it over by hand twice and it seemed very free and smooth. when I let go of the crank the second time it rocked backwards a bit on it’s own. I’m reading the raptor/junior dragster pages and it sounds like straight 30w for break in the protect it with t4 kart oil? any recommendations? I’ll pay up for good oil.View attachment 137238

If someone here can’t help you, 4cycle.com has a flathead section, you might find your answer there.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Ive built sbc’s and it wasn’t this nerve wracking... but this is one time I do not feel as if anything went together poorly or in a sketchy way. everything was clean oiled during assembly and I turned it over by hand twice and it seemed very free and smooth. when I let go of the crank the second time it rocked backwards a bit on it’s own. I’m reading the raptor/junior dragster pages and it sounds like straight 30w for break in the protect it with t4 kart oil? any recommendations? I’ll pay up for good oil.View attachment 137238

I know what you saying. Them ole sbc's will bout jump together, except strokers, .
On these small engines builds, you gonna measure and clearance, measure and clearance, when you THINK you got 'er done........you better go back and measure and clearance some more

 

[Thepartsguy]

I know what you saying. Them ole sbc's will bout jump together, except strokers, .
On these small engines builds, you gonna measure and clearance, measure and clearance, when you THINK you got 'er done........you better go back and measure and clearance some more

not only measuring cleaning after you get the rod out of the box. Arc rods have a heavy amount of metal and just gunk leftover from the machining process. I should of taken a picture of the rag. a nice pile of metal flake. the rod bolts had TONS of big shavings that we’re stuck to the threads. not sure if that would affect the way they torque down but it couldn’t be good. gunk In between the serrations of the rod/cap. And twisting The rod bolts in a rag a ton of grime was left over.