Yerf Dog Predator 212 oil problem

[TJ Salyers]

Hello everybody i was out riding my go kart today and i heard the motor cutting out so i stopped to check what was wrong and oil was dripping around the carb area so i had to leave it on the side of the road. The motor on it is a stage 3 Predator 212 without the upgraded exhaust and intake. I need help to find out why oil was coming out of that area.

 

[redflash]

Do you have a valve cover breather that could be blowing oil toward the intake area ?

Da redflash

 

[TJ Salyers]

Do you have a valve cover breather that could be blowing oil toward the intake area ?

Da redflash

There is a hose that comes out of the valve cover.

 

[redflash]

could be blowin oil, particularly if your crankcase pressure is a little higher than it oughta be.

Da Redflash

 

[TJ Salyers]

could be blowin oil, particularly if your crankcase pressure is a little higher than it oughta be.

Da Redflash

I rode it almost five miles up and down hills. How would I fix crankcase pressure?

 

[panchothedog]

So you have a hot rodded engine ( stage 3 ) and still running stock intake and exhaust? That is completely bass awkward of how the engines are usually modified. Please confirm what mods have been done to your engine. For venting the crankcase you can drill and tap 1/8 pipe thread in the hole where the governor shaft was ( if deleted ) but is impractical with stock gas tank. You can also angle drill and tap the side cover. The easiest but most expensive way
is to install a billet side cover. It is thicker and comes already tapped ( 2 ) exactly for this purpose. The way these engines oil themselves, splashing off of the connecting rod the faster you spin them the more pressure builds up internally and the bigger the need for better ventilation. I agree with Flash, it was probably dripping from your valve cover breather.

 

[TJ Salyers]

So you have a hot rodded engine ( stage 3 ) and still running stock intake and exhaust? That is completely bass awkward of how the engines are usually modified. Please confirm what mods have been done to your engine. For venting the crankcase you can drill and tap 1/8 pipe thread in the hole where the governor shaft was ( if deleted ) but is impractical with stock gas tank. You can also angle drill and tap the side cover. The easiest but most expensive way
is to install a billet side cover. It is thicker and comes already tapped ( 2 ) exactly for this purpose. The way these engines oil themselves, splashing off of the connecting rod the faster you spin them the more pressure builds up internally and the bigger the need for better ventilation. I agree with Flash, it was probably dripping from your valve cover breather.

I purchased it day before yesterday. My friend owned it and the exhaust and intake has not came in yet. The crankshaft valve springs and push rods are all racing parts and the piston is billet. The governor has not yet been deleted but will be. Do you guys think it would be fine to drive it 5 miles back to my house if i take it easy on it?

 

[jmaack]

hmmm.

 

[redflash]

probably, just avoid high rpm,s on the way back.

 

[karl]

I purchased it day before yesterday.

I would ask for a copy of the invoice / receipt for parts purchased.

Just so you know what ya got.

If the governor, airbox, and muffler are still in place, you were likely sold a bone stock motor

Was the oil ever changed? Maybe start there

 

[TJ Salyers]

I would ask for a copy of the invoice / receipt for parts purchased.

Just so you know what ya got.

If the governor, airbox, and muffler are still in place, you were likely sold a bone stock motor

Was the oil ever changed? Maybe start there

Me and my friend built the motor so I know it has the parts stated. We changed the oil after we broke it in.

 

[TJ Salyers]

I plan on changing the oil when I get it back here.

 

[madprofessor]

Call me a sissy if you want to, but with problems already showing up, I'd carry it back home and not crank it again without a wide-open intake and a fairly free exhaust.

The crankshaft valve springs and push rods are all racing parts and the piston is billet.

Okay, but you left out the most endangered part, a billet connecting rod with bearings. With the stronger valve springs, deleting the governor could (and I pessimistically believe it would) lunch out the connecting rod, hence the whole engine. Maybe even send a big chunk of stock connecting rod through your chest.

I plan on changing the oil when I get it back here.

Always a smart idea, but won't save your life. Only sound mechanical principles will do that.

could be blowin oil, particularly if your crankcase pressure is a little higher than it oughta be.

If stock configuration, the blowing oil should be fed back into the carburetor, very ugly. Better off having a raised-up piece of tubing coming off of the valve cover breather, terminating in a dense breather filter. Of course, an oil catch can that would gravity-feed back into the engine would be the better choice. Mainly, you have to vent off that excessive pressure in the crankcase without blowing oil anywhere but a catch can.
3rd stage? Is it running a pulse fuel pump, like a Walbro for example? Where does the pulse come from? If it's tapped off of the valve cover, it's very important to drill and tap it in the right spot, on the inside of the valve cover's flapper valve. If running off of the breather tube, then the pulse signal will be inadequate, and who knows where it'll be tossing the engine oil.

stage 3 Predator 212 without the upgraded exhaust and intake.

I must assume you haven't increased the size of the carb's fuel jets (both main and low) since the intake/exhaust are stock. That's your next step after upgrading int/exh and protecting the engine with a billet connecting rod.
ARC Racing Connecting rod installation(Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube
Predator 212 Stage 2 Install ~ Billet Rod, Billet Flywheel & Mod2 Cam - YouTube
Top Plate, Fuel Pump and Pulse Fitting installation(Predator 212, Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube

 

[TJ Salyers]

Call me a sissy if you want to, but with problems already showing up, I'd carry it back home and not crank it again without a wide-open intake and a fairly free exhaust.

Okay, but you left out the most endangered part, a billet connecting rod with bearings. With the stronger valve springs, deleting the governor could (and I pessimistically believe it would) lunch out the connecting rod, hence the whole engine. Maybe even send a big chunk of stock connecting rod through your chest.

Always a smart idea, but won't save your life. Only sound mechanical principles will do that.

If stock configuration, the blowing oil should be fed back into the carburetor, very ugly. Better off having a raised-up piece of tubing coming off of the valve cover breather, terminating in a dense breather filter. Of course, an oil catch can that would gravity-feed back into the engine would be the better choice. Mainly, you have to vent off that excessive pressure in the crankcase without blowing oil anywhere but a catch can.
3rd stage? Is it running a pulse fuel pump, like a Walbro for example? Where does the pulse come from? If it's tapped off of the valve cover, it's very important to drill and tap it in the right spot, on the inside of the valve cover's flapper valve. If running off of the breather tube, then the pulse signal will be inadequate, and who knows where it'll be tossing the engine oil.

I must assume you haven't increased the size of the carb's fuel jets (both main and low) since the intake/exhaust are stock. That's your next step after upgrading int/exh and protecting the engine with a billet connecting rod.
ARC Racing Connecting rod installation(Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube
Predator 212 Stage 2 Install ~ Billet Rod, Billet Flywheel & Mod2 Cam - YouTube
Top Plate, Fuel Pump and Pulse Fitting installation(Predator 212, Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube

We did take the baffle out of the exhaust. I'm not sure if that'll help any. Everything in the fuel system is stock. So I'll look into the parts that you have provided.

 

[panchothedog]

You stated crankshaft valve springs. They don't really go together. Did you change the crankshaft? That is the one part most people leave alone, as a engine can be built awfully hot while using the stock crank. So which valve springs ( lbs ) did you install. I am not trying to be critical, I am trying to set you
straight on how to build a performance engine. STAGE 3. As of right now you don't even have a stage one yet. Granted stiffer valve springs, chrome molly push rods and a flat top piston are all things that are needed for a modified engine. Do like madprofessor suggest and get the billet rod and flywheel and while you have the engine open install a performance cam. Along with the aftermarket exhaust and intake you will have a nice stage two engine. BTW don't forget to vent the crankcase. Run the vent tube to a catch can. They all have a valve or spicket on the bottom to drain off what they catch. It will help keep the engine clean, and every hour or two check the oil level and be prepared to add a couple of ounces.

 

[jmaack]

racing crank I'm interested in will it fit a hisun 196?

 

[TJ Salyers]

You stated crankshaft valve springs. They don't really go together. Did you change the crankshaft? That is the one part most people leave alone, as a engine can be built awfully hot while using the stock crank. So which valve springs ( lbs ) did you install. I am not trying to be critical, I am trying to set you
straight on how to build a performance engine. STAGE 3. As of right now you don't even have a stage one yet. Granted stiffer valve springs, chrome molly push rods and a flat top piston are all things that are needed for a modified engine. Do like madprofessor suggest and get the billet rod and flywheel and while you have the engine open install a performance cam. Along with the aftermarket exhaust and intake you will have a nice stage two engine. BTW don't forget to vent the crankcase. Run the vent tube to a catch can. They all have a valve or spicket on the bottom to drain off what they catch. It will help keep the engine clean, and every hour or two check the oil level and be prepared to add a couple of ounces.

Yes the crank was changed. Not sure on the lbs the valve springs is he ordered the parts and he put that part together. I'm definitely going to have to vent the crack case.