Compression release cam sticking?

Big Bob

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I have a new Duro Max 440 I put in my Go Kart. Did the first test run yesterday. Had the engine (electric start) running for 15-20 minutes. I shut it down and after 3-4 minutes went to fire it up and no go! At first I thought the battery was dead, I tried the pull starter and I thought I'd break the rope. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so it fired right up again. I am guessing the arm on the cam is sticking or something and not releasing the compression as it should. The engine is a stock unit with a air filter, pipe, and governor removed. When I removed the governor I didn't remove the cam. If it does it again I guess I'll pull the cam and check it out.

Anyone ever heard of this happening?
 

Big Bob

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It sounds like the engine is seizing up to me. Maybe from overheating.
Don't think so. It has maybe 1-2 hours on it. Broke it in, changed the oil. If it was seizing up I'd guess it would run rough, or smoke and blow oil out the breather. It runs like a top. I only had this lack of compression release happen once. I'll try and get it out tomorrow if the rain stops and see if it does it again.
 

Big Bob

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We had another member experience the very same thing a few months ago.
I never heard of this happening. It's a brand new engine so it could be a faulty part. I may pull the cam and check it out. I'd hate for the spring or lever to come off and tear the engine apart.
 

madprofessor

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Well, I managed to copy an old thread of mine here, but erased everything I said in a reply to your post. Won't do it over, just check this old thread and decide if you were saying you almost broke the rope trying to pull it through the compression stroke, or if it was snatching back on you before you could finish the pull. You didn't mention if the "dead battery" was weak and couldn't roll on through the compression stroke or not. You pulled on the rope in its place. Read on, let us know about a comparison pull between when the motor's fully warmed up, and an identical pull when it's cooled down.

I've read many posts and seen videos about people nearly getting fingers broken by the violent "snatchback" of pullropes. Experienced some of that myself on hotrodded Predator 212 @ 12 hp., and recently with my current 212 @ 15+ hp.
Many people have automatically thought about there being excessive timing advance when that happens. I myself went to the flywheel, looking for a broken advance key spinning the wheel, or anything else obvious. The 28 degree PVL flywheel got a #6 advance key, which was still okay. I put the OEM key (no advance) back in, so just 28 degrees total when trying again.
Still snatching back, but then I lost my balance yanking on it, stumbled backwards, and saw a bunch more rope come out. Had been pulling far enough to get through a full cycle, about 3'. The snatchback always was right at the end of that.
Measured my pullrope and found there's "51" of rope there to pull on! Purposely stepped back a bit from the motor to make room, yanked a full 4', and it hasn't snatched back on me since! As long as I don't allow the pull to stop at just 3', the motor fires forward instead of backward.
So when you're pulling, step back and force a nonstop longer pull.
 

Big Bob

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I am assuming you have a cam shaft without the pawl.
Most all small engines like the 212 still need the pawl.
Even on a 212 the kick back can be nasty.
On a 440 you could end up with a much longer arm on one side of your body!

At first I thought my battery was low, it wasn't. But the small battery and perhaps also the starter motor just couldn't spin it. I'm 6'5" and weigh 280. I am old but very active and strong . No way could I pull that rope without fear of breaking it. After sitting 15 minutes it fired right up and ran like a top. I am going to try and run it again today and see if it does it again.
 

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Big Bob

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It's not 1950 anymore, but is vapor lock still a thing? That was one way it used to act on those earlier engines.
Yup, I thought of that as well. Yesterday I drove it quite a bit and it didn't do it again. Sort of odd. The plug looks good, but I'm new to the Autolite plug reading thing. These big block clone engines are beasts! It is a heavy cart and I am a big guy. If you crack that throttle hard you best be ready. Can't wait to put a flywheel, Rod, Cam and HD valve springs, and a big Mikuni on it.
 

Big Bob

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Don’t forget to kiss your electric start goodbye.
Nope. I like the electric start. I’m putting a 20 amp alternator on. Already have a pulley built and installed behind the 40 series TAV driver.
I have a tach on it and keep the rpm’s below the valve float range which is around 4500. Haven’t had it over 4K yet.
 

Big Bob

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Big Bob

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Well I be darned. First time I’ve seen one of those. Good job!
Most people think they loose the electric start, but thats just cause they lose the charging feature. They sell the flywheels in 3 versions. Without a ring gear, with a ring gear, and a flywheel that has adjustable timing,
 

Snaker

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If your looking at modding up both starting and charging, a belt drive starterator would be a good project option for you.
 

Big Bob

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If your looking at modding up both starting and charging, a belt drive starterator would be a good project option for you.

Yes. I already built and installed the pulley on the engine behind the TAV. I am mounting one of these.

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