Belt ripping 30 series TC

[Branespikin]

Just picked up my first gokart and the previous owner says the belts just shred instantly. He put on two yesterday and the both shred. I just got it home and did some research but i never owned one so not sure what can be the issue. I put a square on the driver to driven and driven is set back a good 1/8” of an inch. Is this a problem? He says everything is stock. Its missing the brass idle spacer on driver.

 

[Denny]

You may actually have an easy problem to fix. GoKart supply has an excellent write up about CVTs and also how to measure for belts. You-tube also has some excellent tutorials. Remember no oil or grease graphite only for lube. Another thing and probably the most important. The cheap Chineseum belts are junk. They are made from yack hair and boiled yak grease. And they shred almost instantly. Use only Genuine Comet belts. They last way longer!

 

[Branespikin]

You may actually have an easy problem to fix. GoKart supply has an excellent write up about CVTs and also how to measure for belts. You-tube also has some excellent tutorials. Remember no oil or grease graphite only for lube. Another thing and probably the most important. The cheap Chineseum belts are junk. They are made from yack hair and boiled yak grease. And they shred almost instantly. Use only Genuine Comet belts. They last way longer!

Hi Denny- yes i did read the write up and i did find my measurement for the belt on the site. Watched tons of videos. My concern was everyone saying that the driver and driven need to be dead on and like you see in pics its a good 1/8” off. There are no spacers on driver so i cant remove /replace anything to set iy back an 1/8. I dont think i can shim the driven because its connected to reverse gear box and am sure its set where it needs to be no adjusting. If thats ok. Ill just order comet belt and clean everything and use graphite spray and see what happens.

 

[panchothedog]

You need to pull the driven. It should be keyed to the shaft. You could cut a key way in a large fender washer ( or two ) . Are you implying that the driven is welded to the reverse gear box? With the large nut at the end of the jack shaft
I wouldn't think so. Also you need the brass bushing on the driver. Use a longer
straight edge when lining up the pulleys. Your 6" square isn't long enough to get a good reading. But it does look like you are far enough off to be troublesome.

 

[Denny]

You could easily pull off the driven and do like Pancho said above. Get it a 1/16” or less and you should be golden.

 

[Branespikin]

You need to pull the driven. It should be keyed to the shaft. You could cut a key way in a large fender washer ( or two ) . Are you implying that the driven is welded to the reverse gear box? With the large nut at the end of the jack shaft
I wouldn't think so. Also you need the brass bushing on the driver. Use a longer
straight edge when lining up the pulleys. Your 6" square isn't long enough to get a good reading. But it does look like you are far enough off to be troublesome.

I will pull driven tomorrow. Its not welded i just thought that it does not or cannot get shimmed as it needs to be seated in exact spot because has that locking ring after the nut on jack shaft. Once i have it off i guess i will know better where i could insert these homemade keyed washers. Its definitely a good 1/8” off but i will put something longer tomorrow. Thx for info. Is it possible spring in the driven and plastic tabs are worn? I dont know their life expectancy or by visually looking at them if they are fine. I ordered a comet belt and dont want it to shred first time i put it on.

 

[Branespikin]

You need to pull the driven. It should be keyed to the shaft. You could cut a key way in a large fender washer ( or two ) . Are you implying that the driven is welded to the reverse gear box? With the large nut at the end of the jack shaft
I wouldn't think so. Also you need the brass bushing on the driver. Use a longer
straight edge when lining up the pulleys. Your 6" square isn't long enough to get a good reading. But it does look like you are far enough off to be troublesome.

Are you saying to make a washer like this to use as a shim to shim out the driven?

 

[FlyFrog]

Are you saying to make a washer like this to use as a shim to shim out the driven?

it doesnt need to be keyed, i had used some big body washers that the hole was the same diameter as the crank, and the diameter of the washer was about 1 1/2", it has worked for years for me

 

[panchothedog]

I was thinking that you might need to cut a notch in the washer so the key could slip through. Once you pull the driven it should become obvious how you
need to shape the spacers to work. The main spring in the driven can get tired
and if the black plastic tabs are worn down enough that the cam passes over them, it could cause the driven to open up to early and put a lot of extra stress on the belt. You can buy the spring and plastic tabs from Go Power Sports, and they also have a good video on how to replace them.

 

[panchothedog]

I can't tell from your pictures. Post a good shot of the driven from the side and a little above so we can see the ends of the cam in relation to the plastic tabs.

 

[Branespikin]

I can't tell from your pictures. Post a good shot of the driven from the side and a little above so we can see the ends of the cam in relation to the plastic tabs.

I can't tell from your pictures. Post a good shot of the driven from the side and a little above so we can see the ends of the cam in relation to the plastic tabs.

 

[Branespikin]

I was going to sand down the back plate of the driver 1/8” so it can align with driven. I already got a bit off. It wont interfere with anything if i take off 1:8” it clears back side. Any downfall to this method. I will sand it nice and flat.

 

[panchothedog]

Sounds like a good idea. You certainly have enough material on the back side.
By the way the cam orientation of the driven is fine. It is on the front side of the plastic tabs. Where it should be.

 

[Denny]

The ramp wear buttons are in great shape. No problems there.

 

[Dingocat]

If you didn't already sand, you could just throw a washer or 2 behind the driven.

 

[Branespikin]

I sanded a bit. Its an 1/8” off. I cleaned the driver it had melted belt gunk on it. Got the comet belt and brass ring today just put it on and was driving around fir 10 min just to see. Everything looks good so far. Im going to take driven off tomorrow clean it up a bit aswell and see if i can get a spacer behind it but it came from factory like this so im assuming it OK. Just previous owner didnt maintain anything.

 

[panchothedog]

Glad to hear things are moving in the right direction. Just because it came that
way doesn't mean it's OK. Remember where it was built and by who it was assembled. I doubt any country on the planet has worse quality control than
China. If you can get the alignment dialed in better with a spacer behind the driven, DO IT.

 

[Branespikin]

Glad to hear things are moving in the right direction. Just because it came that
way doesn't mean it's OK. Remember where it was built and by who it was assembled. I doubt any country on the planet has worse quality control than
China. If you can get the alignment dialed in better with a spacer behind the driven, DO IT.

Yeah your right. I figured since Polaris now owns it and its assembled in the US it would be of better quality. Ill do that today.

 

[Denny]

Yea, you got to get rid of the old belt yak grease on the shieves. It just gums up the works.

 

[Branespikin]

Yea, you got to get rid of the old belt yak grease on the shieves. It just gums up the works.

yup. Everything works great. Been riding all day no problems. Going to wait till my son learns the ropes till i remove the governor upgrade carb etc.