Most power for the money?

Kartin’ kid

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Hey y’all, it’s been a while. I’ve been busy with school and such and haven’t had time to work on much of anything. Anyways, I’m looking to finally build my first engine. I’m opting for Preddy 212. Yes, I know that I could spend my money other places to get more power for the same price instead of modeling a predator but that’s not necessarily the point of this. I’m really doing it for the skills and experience. Anyways, with that said I’m giving myself a budget of about $300. The task is simple, how much power can I get for this money and what mods do I need to get there. Open to any and all advice!
 

panchothedog

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To make horse power you need to turn rpm's. To do that with out destroying the engine you need replace the rod and flywheel. There goes at least half of your budget. After that it needs to breathe. A camshaft with lots of duration and more lift than stock. F-275 or a 308. That's another $100. A milled and ported head. That's up in the air. Do you have a IN or know anyone who does with a machine shop, or a cylinder head shop. It's all just labor so it is very difficult to put a price on that. Stainless steel valves and stiffer valve springs are also needed. If you don't run stiffer springs the valves will float and potentially hit the piston. If you don't run the stainless steel valves the increased pressure from the stiffer springs along with the higher RPM will eventually and maybe quite quickly tear the heads off of the stock valves, which will ruin the engine instantly. NOTHING in these engines is very high quality as built from the factory. The only parts you won't replace on your way to building 16 to 20 horse power is the engine block, the crank shaft, the cylinder head casting, and maybe the piston. I would assume you already know about a header exhaust pipe , free flowing air filter and a larger jet in the carburetor. That is what is typically called a stage one kit. That along with the govoner removed will get you around 2 1/2 hp. over stock and is pretty cheap, around $80 to $100.
ANYTHING after that needs to be the aftermarket rod and flywheel. The question is almost as old as the automobile it's self. How fast do you want to go? How thick is your wallet?
 

Kartin’ kid

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To make horse power you need to turn rpm's. To do that with out destroying the engine you need replace the rod and flywheel. There goes at least half of your budget. After that it needs to breathe. A camshaft with lots of duration and more lift than stock. F-275 or a 308. That's another $100. A milled and ported head. That's up in the air. Do you have a IN or know anyone who does with a machine shop, or a cylinder head shop. It's all just labor so it is very difficult to put a price on that. Stainless steel valves and stiffer valve springs are also needed. If you don't run stiffer springs the valves will float and potentially hit the piston. If you don't run the stainless steel valves the increased pressure from the stiffer springs along with the higher RPM will eventually and maybe quite quickly tear the heads off of the stock valves, which will ruin the engine instantly. NOTHING in these engines is very high quality as built from the factory. The only parts you won't replace on your way to building 16 to 20 horse power is the engine block, the crank shaft, the cylinder head casting, and maybe the piston. I would assume you already know about a header exhaust pipe , free flowing air filter and a larger jet in the carburetor. That is what is typically called a stage one kit. That along with the govoner removed will get you around 2 1/2 hp. over stock and is pretty cheap, around $80 to $100.
ANYTHING after that needs to be the aftermarket rod and flywheel. The question is almost as old as the automobile it's self. How fast do you want to go? How thick is your wallet?
Thanks for the input! I’m considering giving myself another 100 to play with on top of the 300. Worth it? That just means less money for other parts. Anyways, I unfortunately do not have access to a machine or someone who does for the head. Is that truly necessary or is there ways to (safely of course) get around that? Could you recommend specific springs to use aswell as jet size?
 

madprofessor

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Maybe Pancho didn't mention it because they're all flat, but I think I recall that non-hemi Predator 212's don't have flattop pistons like the hemi's do. My understanding is that a flattop piston is a desirable upgrade for compression, as is a .010" - .012" head gasket.
If my memory serves correctly, then you could get the flattop for free by just choosing to start with the hemi version, and the head gasket is likely the most inexpensive mod you could do.
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA (harborfreight.com)......NOTE: The hemi version is model # 60363, non-hemi is #69730.
Predator 212cc Performance Gasket Set,Fits Hem 60363 Engines(Best on the Market) | eBay.........This is what I use.
 

Kartin’ kid

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Maybe Pancho didn't mention it because they're all flat, but I think I recall that non-hemi Predator 212's don't have flattop pistons like the hemi's do. My understanding is that a flattop piston is a desirable upgrade for compression, as is a .010" - .012" head gasket.
If my memory serves correctly, then you could get the flattop for free by just choosing to start with the hemi version, and the head gasket is likely the most inexpensive mod you could do.
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA (harborfreight.com)......NOTE: The hemi version is model # 60363, non-hemi is #69730.
Predator 212cc Performance Gasket Set,Fits Hem 60363 Engines(Best on the Market) | eBay.........This is what I use.
That would be great, the only problem is I’m in California. Do you know if harbor freight still sells them? When I’ve been there in the past I haven’t seen them but then again I haven’t looked
 

Kartin’ kid

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Found this. would it work with the other recommended mods?
 

panchothedog

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Hey Kartin'kid
some of the info I posted last night was probably steering you towards a extremely high hp build you may never be able to afford. Starting over. The
265 cm grind cam is about the hottest one of the lesser prices cams. Use it
with the 22 lb valve springs. Not expensive, but much better than stock are the aluminum retainers and automotive style keepers. All of these parts are advertised at Go Power Sports for about $85. You should be able to run this with the stock valves. If you buy a stage one kit it will have the bigger jet in it,
but they are cheap and can be purchased individually. # 36, #37, or #38. If you just buy one, get the #37. I'm in California also and have never seen a hemi 212
for sale. Don't worry about it. If you notice all the modified aftermarket high compression and big valve heads for sale are NON hemi. That's because with high lift cams and or milled heads the valves in the hemi head sit on a angle and it causes clearance problems with the valves and piston. To raise compression get the flat top piston, about $21 same place, GPS. The non hemi
will come with a dished piston and the flat top ( rings included ) is a horse power increasing bargin at that price. For the rod you can buy longer than stock but then you must run a thicker head gasket to maintain .030" clearance
between piston and head so that sorta defeats the purpose, stay with stock length and use the thin head gasket. Buy the ARC flywheel. It is a little more than the PVL but it also has 32 degrees advance compared to 28, and helps turn more RPM, and you won't have to mess with an offset timing key. Do this and you will end up with somewhere around 12 horse power and well within your budget.
 

panchothedog

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The valve -spring kit you show in post #9 is great. The problem is the valves have 5.5 mm stems and the new Predator engines come with 5 mm valves in them so that kit won't work. O. M. B. Warehouse sells a similar kit with 5 mm
stainless valves for about the same price. E C Carburetor also has the same kit.
In fact the one I bought from OMB I think it came from E C. If you don't go past the 22 lb springs you should be able to keep the stock valves that are in the engine now. I have a mini bike built very much like described above and did
not change valves. I have lots of hours on that engine and I weigh 225 pounds.
 

redflash

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Remember kid, you already have 22 lb valve springs, and a 265 cam. Unless you;ve already blown it up they're still good.

Da Redflash
 

Kartin’ kid

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OK here’s what I’m getting, let me know if it all checks out:

flat top piston:

Retainer kit:

Stage one kit (air filter, adapter ect, 0.38 jet)

Stage two kit:

Exhaust pipe:
https://www.gopowersports.com/header-pipe-skinny-center-exit-196-212/
 
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panchothedog

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Have you already bought the engine? The stage 2 kit you show is for a hemi.
the cam and the flywheel are NOT interchangeable between the two engines.
Get the engine before you buy those parts.
 
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