What thickness should my steel be for making the frame for a go kart that’s going to be carrying me plus a roll cage

Sleepingturtle

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I was wondering what wall thickness i should use for my go kart that’s going to be carrying roughly 160-200 pounds I’m planning on turning this frame into a boxcar so its going to have to be pretty strong. Can anyone help me? Thanks!
 
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Rick Stevens

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Depends on how much weight you are talking about, and the overall design you have in mind. Round tube, square tube and type of steel also matter. Do you have any drawings of what you want it to look like?
 

Sleepingturtle

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Depends on how much weight you are talking about, and the overall design you have in mind. Round tube, square tube and type of steel also matter. Do you have any drawings of what you want it to look like?
yeah, so basically I want it to be square tube and then just make a normal frame, then add a body to it... I’m not exactly sure how much it’s going to weight but I want to Be sure that it’s more than strong enough to hold everything up, I’m not sure what the body is going to be made of though, which will alter the weight. basically I’m trying to make a mini car... I have attached a photo of what I’m using as a reference for the body but I want mine To be a bit bigger... I’m only about 100 pounds so my weight shouldn’t be too much of a problem... I’d you have any suggestions for what to use for the body it would be greatly appreciated. im not really trying to make this incredibly fast or quick, more of something that will be moderately fast and still look decent, that’s why it’s going to be very bare bones and not have anything to help steering ect...
 

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redflash

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I would say min 16 gauge...depending on length, ..on road or off road. Then bracing (diagonal, gussets etc. ) depending on weight of rider ( one or two) and realisticly if something cracks....ad another brace


da flash
 

Rick Stevens

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yeah, so basically I want it to be square tube and then just make a normal frame, then add a body to it... I’m not exactly sure how much it’s going to weight but I want to Be sure that it’s more than strong enough to hold everything up, I’m not sure what the body is going to be made of though, which will alter the weight. basically I’m trying to make a mini car... I have attached a photo of what I’m using as a reference for the body but I want mine To be a bit bigger... I’m only about 100 pounds so my weight shouldn’t be too much of a problem... I’d you have any suggestions for what to use for the body it would be greatly appreciated. im not really trying to make this incredibly fast or quick, more of something that will be moderately fast and still look decent, that’s why it’s going to be very bare bones and not have anything to help steering ect...
Are you planning to tie the lower frame section together with some sort of roll cage? If not , you could use 16 guage 1'' x 2'' rec tubing and stand the 2'' side up for your main perimiter frame. Same tubing laying flat for your crossmembers and/or diagonals. It would provide alot more structure this way compared to square tubing.
 

redflash

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On the arachnid plans calls for 1/16 thick 1 1/4 square for the main frame and 1 inch square for bracing.

Da flash
 

Sleepingturtle

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Are you planning to tie the lower frame section together with some sort of roll cage? If not , you could use 16 guage 1'' x 2'' rec tubing and stand the 2'' side up for your main perimiter frame. Same tubing laying flat for your crossmembers and/or diagonals. It would provide alot more structure this way compared to square tubing.
I am planning on giving it a roll cage, do you think that this will be harder than using plain old 1x1 tubing? Basically the frame I’m planning on doing is all with square tubing...
 

Sleepingturtle

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I would say min 16 gauge...depending on length, ..on road or off road. Then bracing (diagonal, gussets etc. ) depending on weight of rider ( one or two) and realisticly if something cracks....ad another brace


da flash
Ok will do!
 

Sleepingturtle

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I would say min 16 gauge...depending on length, ..on road or off road. Then bracing (diagonal, gussets etc. ) depending on weight of rider ( one or two) and realisticly if something cracks....ad another brace


da flash
This is a bit of a dumb question but does the gauge of the steel determine the wall thickness or the overall strength of the steel?
 

madprofessor

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The gauge is indeed the wall thickness, and I don't have a conversion chart for it, confuses me. Can tell you I used 1.5" square steel 11 gauge for a 9' long buggy that weighs about 520 lbs. riderless. Tremendously overbuilt, fully welded, so no trusses or bracing required.
Use 1" square steel 16 gauge for any length under 6', and use small gussets on every corner. For stressed sections that want to bend you can truss it with little V-sections, or just slap a piece of 1" angle iron on it (sistering) (with lots of welds) for increased wall thickness where it's needed.
 

madprofessor

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Wow, that's good enough for me, thanks Denny. Guess I could have searched it, but now I don't need to.
Turtle, with Denny's info now, notice how 16ga. down to 10ga. is only a 37.5% decrease in gauge number, but the thickness of the steel increases by 100%............
That kind of stuff is why I've always been a little confused about gauge numbers. Kind of a cheap shot trying to confuse me, it's too easy. Like shooting fish in a barrel. With a howitzer.
 

Sleepingturtle

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Wow, that's good enough for me, thanks Denny. Guess I could have searched it, but now I don't need to.
Turtle, with Denny's info now, notice how 16ga. down to 10ga. is only a 37.5% decrease in gauge number, but the thickness of the steel increases by 100%............
That kind of stuff is why I've always been a little confused about gauge numbers. Kind of a cheap shot trying to confuse me, it's too easy. Like shooting fish in a barrel. With a howitzer.
Haha
 

Bansil

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I will be that guy....on street (ie no rock/boulder contact) I would build with .083 wall 1-1/2 diameter ERW as main base parts. Make ALL tube ends meet at intersections, NO unsupported joints, triangles are your friend.
On trails, always used .120 wall dom for B bar, .120 wall erw for all outside impact areas and .083 wall for inside tubes that just triangulation for push/pull tension, like X on B bar.

Here is a very old build in back yard during winter...

Low rider


Very long read build


just some old free build for a new website....very ghetto build :p

A friend's passing reminded me of that thead
 
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