anderkart's pic shows 2 welded tabs in almost the right config, that is, in line with each other. Unfortunately that wasn't used as intended, with a center-pull yoke or similar that would allow the cable to be pulled in line also. In that same config I'm currently using a piece of flat bar bent 90 degrees at both ends with holes drilled in those ends to give me the "similar" to a store-bought yoke, a straight-line pull. His and mine are both creative answers to make it work with what's on hand at the moment, admittedly the essence of hotrodding.
Pulling any cable at an angle to the sheath's end is never the ideal solution, requires more force to pull, and more importantly makes it harder for the other return spring to retract it. The spring in the pic is only the return spring for the rod, a separate one at the other end of the sheath is needed to retract the throttle itself.. Without that, the rod spring might just bunch the cable right there without actually retracting the throttle on the motor.
You're doing great by using your rigid linkage wherever possible, and only using cable after that part ends. Been through a lot of different kinds of cables and sheaths (conduit) to try to find a combo that doesn't want to get stiff and bind in the sheath when going around a curved section of it. I'd use rigid linkage everywhere if I could, sliding the motor for chain tensioning notwithstanding, but I always settle for just minimal cabling with minimal curves.
MFG S_p_ly (copyright fear) sells me a 1/4" aircraft cabling conduit that has a METAL inner sheath, NOT plastic, and CERTAINLY NOT with no inner at all. It takes at least twice the degree of curvatures that hang up others, and still slides like it was greased. Speaking of which, I also buy "Chain and Cable Lube" from them, yes "Cable", and use its straw to blow lube through the sheath of all my cables. My stuff never hangs up, moves smooth as silk.
BTW: I don't know for sure about anderkart's sheath and compression joint in the pic, but it looks identical to a cheesy setup that was sent to me a good while back. The sheath was just a hollow white plastic tube as his looks above, with the same compression adapter for termination. Problem was the brass adapter had a brass ferrule in it like for rigid plumbing applications, instead of a nylon ferrule like is used on plastic lines. The brass ferrule cut right through the plastic tube when tightened, cut it almost completely off. Kept the very small diameter ball-end cable, threw the rest away.