Predator 212 has limits!

[TheInspiredFool]

My guide is as far through as that one. Lol

Ok well then apparently you didn't drop the guide then. I guess the fogging up thing was something else. How does it run? Did you jump the gun and think it broke but it actually is just fine?

 

[Solomonster212]

Eh, it runs ok... I definitely need to figure out the fogging up issue. I put the 18lb springs back in to regain my low end power and also to keep feom breaking things.

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The guide isn't completely "dropped" per say, but it's at least a half an inch from where it needs to be. So it needs to be fixed

---------- Post added at 07:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

That's what I thought you were talking about. They aren't cracks in the head; those marks are from surface cracks in the die casting mold that made the cylinder head and raised from the head surface, not actually a crack. I have a GX140 head with them and the transmission case in my car has them. It's extremely common and not considered a problem.

Yea I recently rebuilt my 350 trans and it had those cracks all over it. But the reason I thought they were an issue is because they weren't there a while ago and popped up out of nowhere.

 

[bob58o]

Curious to know what springs and you used and what cam you had in there. I see it is a hemi head and hemi heads have limitations with springs.

Did you cut some springs to fit? Or do they sell some that fit the hemi head?

P.S. you can get rid of the fog issue by getting rid of that garbage clear valve cover. GPS should stop making them. Heard nothing but problems with them.

 

[TheInspiredFool]

Curious to know what springs and you used and what cam you had in there. I see it is a hemi head and hemi heads have limitations with springs.

Did you cut some springs to fit? Or do they sell some that fit the hemi head?

That's why I was asking about the diameter, length and spring rate. There are pockets that the hemi heads have to fit the spring's diameter into. I figured it was a good bet that he had springs that were too wide and they set on the pedestal or squeezed the sides of the seat recession walls which increased the seat pressure and under power it became too much for the poor aluminum casting. Just a thought though. Without details we can't know for sure.

 

[BigWes]

He mentioned he purchased beehive springs to prevent coil bind. Those type springs are dimensionally bigger in the middle but should be cut right to fit the spring pockets. The idea is as the springs work they will compress with less chance of binding because the coils won't stack due to increased dimensions of the middle coils. This is all dependant upon valve lift of course as everything has limits. Personally I would just have the pockets cut and go with a known tried and true working cam spring rocker combo.

But it's not mine, it's his. I don't think it's as bad as he thinks. I would go over it real good and have a machine shop check it over. If they think it's fine then put some new guides in it and rock on.

 

[Solomonster212]

The springs fit perfectly in the pockets.

---------- Post added at 04:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:58 PM ----------

I'm running a .265/.265 cam

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There is no difference between the clear valve cover from GPS and the stock valve cover other than being taller and clear. What do you have against it?

 

[bob58o]

The springs fit perfectly in the pockets.

---------- Post added at 04:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:58 PM ----------

I'm running a .265/.265 cam

---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

There is no difference between the clear valve cover from GPS and the stock valve cover other than being taller and clear. What do you have against it?

No difference? Are you joking? One is plastic. One it metal. It warps, doesn’t seal, and leaks.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

This is turning into the blowup that never was and the thread that should never have been.

Eh, it runs ok... I definitely need to figure out the fogging up issue.

Yeah, do like Bob said and put the stock valve cover back on. You only thought something was wrong because you saw oil mist under the clear one, yet there are no bad sounds or bad running happening. In other words, no cause for concern.

put the 18lb springs back in to regain my low end power

The guide isn't completely "dropped" per say, but it's at least a half an inch from where it needs to be. So it needs to be fixed

A half inch from where? And you changed the valve springs anyway?

I'm looking at the photos again and don't see beehive springs. I see stock valves and stock retainers that won't accept beehives.

 

[Solomonster212]

No difference? Are you joking? One is plastic. One it metal. It warps, doesn’t seal, and leaks.

Well I wrapped my header to keep from melting it and that worked. Also you can buy a stock paper gasket instead of using the cork one, it wont leak. So I have no complaints about it at all.

Putting lighter valve springs in a Predator DOES give better low end. If you don't believe me then go put some heavy *** valve springs in it, ride it for a while and then go back to stock. You will definitely fell the difference.

In the pictures I posted I had the 18lb springs and retainers just laying in there. I didn't put anything back in place because the guide needs to be fixed.


Also was wondering if anybody knew where to buy a good set of pushrods. My stock one looks a little warped.

My fault, I used the wrong terminology. What I have are "dual valve springs". So just insert that everytime I said "beehive" and everything is correct.

There's a pic I took a couple months back when I was still working on the build