2020 - GEGcorp "Dirt Bobber Trike"

[gegcorp2012]

Gaps in picture 2 are before final fitting. Pictures 3,4,5 are closer to final welding, which is not complete. Any gaps at this point will get their fill of .030 wire.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[gegcorp2012]

Its a roller !

Need to drill the steering column, then get the wiring harness back in place, then see if the years of storage have been kind to the carbs.

I was surprised to see that both front tires lean in the direction that I put my weight as I was monkeying around on it like the chimps in 2001 a Space Odyssey that bashed rocks with a stick. oooh ooohh ooohh !

I hope the tires leaning with the bike is a good thing, as it seems like what I would want it do to when carving a corner, or when popping the clutch to get the rear end to break around as in a dirt track slide... or maybey its the reason you dont see reverse 3-wheelers off road (?)

I guess we will see soon.

Im also puzzled at the vacuum hose cluster and if I need to keep all that. My plans are minimal - like velocity stacks instead of an air box

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[landuse]

Have a look at all the threads that hodala has posted. He is an expert in the reverse trike type build. Maybe you can get some ideas

This is just one of them:

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=42674

 

[Functional Artist]

Gaps in picture 2 are before final fitting. Pictures 3,4,5 are closer to final welding, which is not complete. Any gaps at this point will get their fill of .030 wire.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Kool!

Yes, your notches in the other pics look beautimous

She's a "roller" nice work

On vacuum hoses
...run the necessary ones
...then, see what you have left

My motto: "If it's not necessary, it's gotta go"

 

[gegcorp2012]

Weekend update:

Decided to bend up a low rise handlebar because the brake hose length was going to be a problem using the motocross style.

Then put the wiring harness on and discovered an issue with the "new" right handlebar pod. The part is from a CBR250 and has the same switches and plugs but the pin-out is different. Once that was identified, I added a honda tank to see if it would start and run on gas.

The carbs filled up and started leaking, so that will take some extra time to go through : (

Anyhow, I went ahead and fired it up without mufflers and it made a good braaaapp!! and spewed oily residue all over nearby surfaces... so it starts on gas.

While the oily residue and loud obnoxious tone may be offensive to some, it is a pleasure to the senses for those who favor motivation from internal combustion engines.


Then I took on the challenge of the shifter linkage and new seating position.

The original placement has the feet towards the rear and when the shifter is pressed down (CW), the linkage transfers this motion to the transmission (CW).

With the new front end, the seating position will have the feet forward so the foot controls need to be flipped forward. Pressing the shifter down produces a CCW motion, so the linkage rod has to cross over to transfer that to the CW motion the gearbox is looking for and that way the traditional shift pattern is maintained.

That took some cutting and pasting.

One cut would not do. Had to add some length and adjust an angle or two...

While pushing and roll testing the shifter linkage, noticed the front wheel bearings are kind of loose. Ordered a set and some front calipers and a new front brake master cylinder to make sure I have some stopping power.

Will need that for sure.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[gegcorp2012]

Tanks alot !
So it took me a couple of tries, but I was able to buy a rather large fuel tank to fit the CBR1000 donor bike. ($85 bucks total)

Man, thats a huge tank, but it has some cool features like a fuel shutoff valve, a fuel level sensor, and a locking gas cap (but with no key ).

With the arrival of the gas tank, I have a better idea of where to locate the seat pan and I have a more exact guide for how to bend the handle bars for comfort, looks and fit .

When I welded on the upper steering shaft clamp from the Yamaha to the Honda frame, I partially covered the mounting holes for the stock gas tank, so I will have to make some kind of adjustment in this area. Will probably add (2) 10mm nuts onto that red bracket to get the front of the tank as low as it can go.

Now I have to do the one step forward and two steps back to repair and straighten up some more of the damage to the frame in the area where the air box and battery box are supposed to fit.

Decided to stick with the stock air box and vacuum hose management because the carbs will need to be sync'd and all that stock stuff probably needs to be hooked up for that.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[Smerft85]

The patients and effort you are putting into those joints is a beautiful thing, looks sturdy and ready for some abuse!

 

[gegcorp2012]

Thanks @smerft85 .
Just enough encouragement for me to consider the advice I have been giving for members that are learning the welding skill, and make sure I take the time to follow the best practices myself so I can do it right the first time (or second time, or third time...

Here is a close up of the materials I am using to piece the front end together.

1/8 wall for the small pipe and flat bar or angle, and 1/16 wall for the large tubes. There are (4) of the big tubes taking the weight down to the quad frame and (2) of the smaller pipes on each side connecting the quad frame to the engine cradle and foot peg area.

Tonight I am trying to do the final welds on the really hard to reach areas underneath. The engine cradle tie back is one I want to make strong, so I have been touching it up this afternoon. Always its better to do it at once if things are running well with the heat and wire speed and gas, but I think I ran out of wire last time so I know I'm low on gas tonight. Always some reason to work on it more later !

Heres how things were running last week.

Having trouble uploading pictures for the welds on for the small pipe on the left side of the engine cradle .

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[Brianator]

Nice welds man!

 

[Functional Artist]

Nice welds man!

them are some nice welds

 

[gegcorp2012]

Thanks you guys. Here are the pics I was having trouble with earlier. Left side low bar from quad front to engine cradle.

I had to use the edge of the cutoff wheel to clean out the space where the black paint is in the space between the pipe and the bolt hole before welding.

Tools for the clean up pass.

Flashlight for inspecting, a grinder with cutoff or flap disk, a couple of handy wire brushes and a flame tip carbide cutter in the drill.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[gegcorp2012]

So last weekend I got this used fuel tank. It had been sitting in the salvage yard for years, probably outside and in or near the ground.

I opened it up from the bottom (the cap is locked) and here's what I found.

The fuel petcock was completely clogged up for the "reserve" position and would only flow when "on" (through the tall tube).

I started scraping out the packed in varnish and other stuff and found there is a recess around the tube for the fuel to flow when on reserve.

A couple of days later, I decided to check that fuel sender to see if it was good, and it may need replacing. I has an odd pattern where it is ~100 ohms with the float at either extreme and over 20Mohms in the center.

Heres a look inside the tank, the top of the tank in the filler and vent area.

I have a fuel tank cleaning/sealing kit for my '41 Ford project that has been waiting on me for a while, so I will take the opportunity to do both tanks

Here is my tank rocker made from an old wheelbarrow wheel and some scrap lumber.

For stage 2 I will add acetone, and a rocking chair, piece of string and a glass of iced tea for me to power the pendulum.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[Functional Artist]

Old gas is some really nasty stuff

One of the reasons I "went electric"
...that's why...(see below)

 

[gegcorp2012]

Yah, LOL.

Nothing lasts forever, including LA batteries.

My Tahoe stuck in the driveway today with fresh fuel and a dead battery. They give out too ! They dont smell as bad as 2 or 3 year old gas though.



Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[gegcorp2012]

Rockin' into the night.

(or just 45 seconds a push)

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm so dizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzy
...oh, my...…………………..BRB
...Blaaaaah
sorry


Um..., kool "rig"

 

[gegcorp2012]

Yah... and that is without the smell of acetone. I added two cups of gravel to speed the cleanup. Also sealed the open ports and that fixed the smell, so I continued working on projects that do not make any sparks.


Instrument cluster rebuild

I found a way to repair some severe damage to the instrument cluster pod that holds the speedo, tach, fuel and temp gauges.

Heres what I have now and what I started with below.

So the cluster frame was all twisted up, and the pod was shattered into pieces, it was hit so bad that a couple of the little aluminum reflectors inside the cluster were bent.

The next two shots are from day 1 of the build.

There is a row across the top where additional indicators typically live, but in this bike, it is all blacked in and no bulbs at all.

All but one of the mounts were broken, and there is a big chunk missing out of the bezel. I may not use that piece, but it acts as a weather cover as well, so I will have to add a fairing of some sort. More on that later.

There are large chunks of white plastic missing and I tried super glue to put the puzzle back together, but that was not strong enough and when I broke out the sawz-all, all the cracked pieces fell apart.

I used a low power soldering iron from Radio Shack with a spade tip that is good for melting plastic and started re-assembly of the biggest pieces, being more careful to get the gauge faces in line with each other.

After assembling the big pieces, I was left with some pretty big holes to fill

I used my coping saw to cut some odd shapes out of a MIG wire spool. That is some good thick and tough plastic.

Then I "melted" the new piece in with the pod, and repeated as needed to close the remaining holes on the other side.

After all that, I used some black duct tape and some 2x4 scraps to check the height amd potential mounting location. The headlight was picked up at a pallet liquidator for 5 bucks.

Its not really bobber style, but Im going where the parts lead for now...

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Additional edits are due to my Tapatalk app crashing if I attach more than 4 photos at a time. Just trying to provide a good post y'all !

 

[gegcorp2012]

Fuel tank progress

Here is some progress on cleaning the old fuel tank. Used acetone and 2-3 cups of gravel.

The fuel sender is now reporting 0-124 Ohms, so that fix alone has paid for the acetone.

I drained the nasty acetone and gravel then added another quart of acetone for the second pass of soaking and swishing.

Found that 90% Isopropyl alcohol does a nice job at cleaning up any of the residue that leaked out and smells "better" than it ever did.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[gegcorp2012]

Better brake lever

The old brake lever was really bent and the master cylinder was shot so I ordered an OEM replacement off something similar, this time I did better.

The old and new parts side to side:

The stock part is on the right, and the red shows a little space between the handlebar mount and the master cylinder plunger.

The new part on the left gets a green star because of the extra clearance AND it has a front brake microswitch that is
plug amd play compatible with the CBR wiring harness.

Old part interfered with Honda twist throttle when the brake lever was pulled in.

New part has clearance so the brakes will apply with a natural spacing.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[Brianator]

Right arm man! Way to kill two birds with one stone!