New (to me) Manco 415 - Gearing and general maintenance questions

[Notacop]

I picked up an old Manco 415-201 off of Facebook classifieds. It looks pretty good and runs and drives - a steal at $100.

It has a 5 hp Briggs (Model 135232 0134 01) and is the dual seat model. The clutch would catch and stall the engine after about 30 seconds of idling but that seems to have resolved itself after doing a little driving (had to do a bit of a rolling start at first)

My wife is keen on putting the factory style seat belts back on it. My first priority is changing up the gearing since it doesn't have enough juice to drive up our sloped yard. My 5 minute test drive when I got it home at sundown last night showed that it had more top end than is needed. I'd love to do a 10t/80t setup but it appears that 80t sprockets are either #35 chain or super expensive and clutches don't come in 10t/#35 chain.

I know the standard small engine stuff, like spark plugs, oil change, air filter, etc. What kind of things need to be checked, inspected, greased or serviced before handing the controls over to my kids?

 

[Karttekk]

Two important things to verify they're working are the parking brake and the kart drum brake. The parking brake should hold the kart in place in the event the engine would happen to rev up unexpectedly and launch the kart. Ensure that works then make sure the brake band has enough "meat" on it to stop the kart when the brakes are applied. Put the rear of the kart on stands when checking these things out. The parking brake should have an angled lever near the pedal that pushes against a small tube or spacer on the end of the pedal bolt. Make sure the front wheel nuts and rear axle nuts are tight and the kart steers straight.

Thanks

---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------

Here's an illustration of a Manco 415 kart.

https://americanlandmaster.com/pdfs/gokarts-minibikes/model-415/415_operatorsmanual_20050223.pdf

---------- Post added at 12:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 AM ----------

If your kart shipped with scrub brakes or brakes that flat metal plates rub against the rear tires, the drum brake suggestion would not apply, no pun intended.

 

[mckutzy]

The clutch needs to be oiled every 2hrs of use(typical standard version)....

 

[Notacop]

I haven't had a chance to take pics of my own yet, but attached are the sellers pics.

Luckily no scrub brakes and the drum seems to be working well. I didn't see a parking brake last night but I wasn't looking for one. I will check when I get home.

The steering was very twitchy but I assumed that was just because it is only about 1/3 of a turn from lock to lock.

Any specific oil to use on the clutch or is 3 in 1 oil good enough? I know not to get oil inside the clutch or on the shoes, just on the friction point near where the sprocket meets the shaft.

 

[Karttekk]

30W in the engine and on the clutch bushing.

---------- Post added at 01:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

Looks like you did okay with that find.

 

[Karttekk]

Here's where the e-brake lever should be.

 

[Dingocat]

Something that happened to mine: I used the parking brake and then my friend hopped on and ran it probably 3/4 of a mile down the street before the brake started squeeling

 

[landuse]

80T sprockets will also be too big for ground clearance on your kart. Take some pics of the drive-train for us to look at and advise. You might be better off with a TC, or going with a jackshaft for com-pound gear reduction

 

[bthompson224]

I have the Critter II, almost the same kart. Mine does have a #35 chain and taller tires. Currently running 12T to 80T sprockets. Pulls me and my daughter just fine (300 lbs). I think if you give these guys tire height, they could point you in the right direction for the correct rear sprocket. If the clutch was sticking, could be other things wrong with it and worth $30 for another. And that is a steal at $100.

 

[Notacop]

The only pictures I grabbed last night was of the brake pedal (that does not seem to have a parking brake), and the original decals on it, because I thought they were cool.

I did some counting and measuring last night. 12t on the clutch, 60t on the drive side #35 chain. Tires are knobby 4.10-5NHS. I would like more traction as well, so I have been considering a rim/tire upgrade... I like the idea of a 13x6x6 turf tire. I will definitely pick up a new clutch when I order a sprocket.

There isn't really space for a torque converter or a jackshaft. If it gets too far into upgrades, I might as well wait until a good deal pops up on a buggy style setup with live axle, 18" tires, torque converter, etc. Torque converter = $60-100, Wheels/Tires = $80-120, Live Axle Conversion = $150-200 and that is just parts. If I have to pay for fab work the prices would go up a bunch more. Even if I can find a friend to do the welding I'd end up with $400-500 into it, when I could have bought a bigger/nicer kart for that kind of money.

Thanks in advance for the help everyone.

 

[Karttekk]

No parking brake is kind of scary, I guess that model didn't ship with one. Just keep in mind there's nothing from keeping the kart from taking off if the engine were to speed up for whatever reason with no one sitting in it to keep the brake applied. I would start it up with it up against a wall or blocks in front of the wheels. Is there a way you could fabricate some type of parking brake? I would do that before upgrading other areas, just my view.

Thanks

 

[Notacop]

Is there a way you could fabricate some type of parking brake?

I could probably just rig up a hook that holds the brake pedal down. It wouldn't be the easiest to engage since you would have to press the pedal and swing the hook onto it, but it would be better than nothing.

 

[txluke]

I Here is what I assume was the one on this kart. I would take better pics but I just stripped it down last night.I think you push brake down and flip this over to hold pedal down.

 

[Karttekk]

That's all it is, a wedge shaped piece of steel that jams against a bushing on the brake pedal pivot bolt. Push the brake pedal down, flip the lever onto the bushing then let off the pedal. Check and make sure the brake band squeezes the drum tight to prevent the kart from moving.

---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

Here you go, right from a previous DIY Go Karts post.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=16442

 

[Notacop]

That makes sense. I couldn't figure out how it worked based on the diagrams.

The biggest questions remaining are 1) what is the biggest sprocket I can fit with 4.10-5NHS tires and 2) how wide of a tire can I fit if I swap rims? I'd like 13x6x6 turfs if they fit...especially if they can support an 80t sprocket.

 

[Karttekk]

I can't help you with the sprocket but as far as the parking brake, get a 2-1/2" x 2" x 1/4" piece of flat steel, have it welded to the frame, paint it red, drill a 1/4" hole in it and you have your parking brake post. Come up with the wedge and you're in. Curve out the end of the wedge a little to conform to the shape of the bushing it rides against for a more secure fit.

 

[Karttekk]

Something like this

 

[bthompson224]

Here is the parking brake on my 415-511.