Industrial Motor race kart

[itsid]

don't mind me, jutst putting the foot in the door
'sid

 

[Quinc]

don't mind me, jutst putting the foot in the door
'sid

Thank you sir!

Started on the battery wiring! Using 300amp 1/0GA welding connectors. (Very much overkill, but cheaper then Anderson) I was going to start with 8S and go from there but realized my contactor is 48v so going back to original plan of 12S and will limit the voltage via the controller and work my way up to 50v.

8S

12S

 

[Quinc]

First time configuring a kelly. Any advise is most welcome!
Anyone know if the foot throttle is 0-5 or 1-4v?

 

[Quinc]

In an attempt to square up the kart I moved the rear axle so that it is about 3/4" longer on each side to the front spindles. And I have the rear hubs flush with the axle. Does this look correct?

 

[sikbrik]

Yes, a regular road-race (sprint) kart is setup symmetrically, as above in your diagram, so you've done the right things.

Are your wheel offsets the same on either side? I've got some metric 5"x5" (fronts) sitting around if you end up needing any.

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

I think it's kind of cool that your seat is offset for oval, to counter your battery weight.

 

[Quinc]

Spindles are fairly long and I have a lot of adjustment with spacers.

Next question do I want to line up the outside or the inside of the tires? Left or right?

 

[sikbrik]

That's a trick question...wider rear track is a bit counterintuitive because it will help you rotate. That's really why the rear hubs are so adjustable. Each track will have it's own "best" setup.

You could theoretically line up the centerline of front and rear and adjust from there. If you're understeering, widen the rear (again, sounds counterintuitive) and oversteering then narrow it up. You probably don't need to go too far off of your current "flush with axle" setup, by more than 12 to 15mm either way for most conditions. Flush is probably your OEM setup for track width but that's with stock offset wheels.

Can often find a chassis setup manual for a lot of these karts but yours might apply to oval, so look for a similar brand but sprint style and refer to it's chassis setup guide. It won't be dead on because your chassis flex will be different.

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 PM ----------

Thinking about it some more, that heavy motor hanging off the back is going to make the rear work harder than usual so you may want to stay wide, to loosen things up a bit more.

 

[Quinc]

Are your wheel offsets the same on either side? I've got some metric 5"x5" (fronts) sitting around if you end up needing any.

I think it's kind of cool that your seat is offset for oval, to counter your battery weight.

Wheels/tires are the same size although they are different types/brands of rims.

That's a trick question...wider rear track is a bit counterintuitive because it will help you rotate. That's really why the rear hubs are so adjustable. Each track will have it's own "best" setup.

Thinking about it some more, that heavy motor hanging off the back is going to make the rear work harder than usual so you may want to stay wide, to loosen things up a bit more.

Do the hubs need to be flush with the axle or can they hang over a bit? They seem solid enough. I wouldn't mind going as wide as possible if that means she will drift.

I am hoping that moving the batteries under the steering column will help offset some of the rear weight. I also have the seat touching the steering post. Maybe I will cut the seat so I can get move it up more.

 

[sikbrik]

General rule of thumb for me is, if it's a 30mm axle, keep 30mm of the hub engaged (so a 50mm wide hub surface could overhang 20mm) and so forth. Not sure if that's valid but I like it. ��

 

[Quinc]

Picked up a 6$ ammo can from harborfreight. Little bigger then I need. But will work for now. Lined it with 8mm closed cell padding. considering mounting the controller to the side of it.

 

[Quinc]

Made some good progress over the last couple of nights. Finished the battery box and got everything mounted and wired up. Then I ran into the issue that I cant get the **** controller to power on.. Anyone know the secret to these things? The contactor has a +/- on it with the small wires that go to a key switch and to the controller. I assume the pwr cable goes to + and the gnd to the -? But no luck getting the green light..

 

[sikbrik]

I'm no help but it looks like good progress ��

 

[landuse]

Looking good!!

 

[Functional Artist]

That sucks! I hate it when that happens.

Try to go thru the whole system step by step in your mind or even write it down as you go.

IMO an electric kart is kinda like Einstein's big/long equations that covered whole walls.

If designed & connected properly, everything should flow smoothly from the beginning (battery pack) to the end (solution/green light)

If everything (the plan/software) seems to "check out" (& be correct)
...then, start double checking stuff (components/connections/hardware)

Start at the battery pack (power supply) then, fuse, main cut-off switch etc. all of the way thru each circuit.
I've had issues like this before & the problem was as simple as, I forgot to turn the main power on.
I've also run into faulty components like switches, contactors even "bad" connectors/plugs on ends of the wires.
...or even (1) loose connection (big/power or small/signal) can interrupt "the flow"

Hope it helps!

 

[sikbrik]

This seems like it'd be wrong but if your controller cuts off at maybe 46v (set for a 48v pack) and your battery pack puts out 45.5, could that keep the controller from kicking on?

 

[Quinc]

My dumbass had the J1 cable plugged into the J2 port.. All of the wiring was correct. Now I am balancing charging the lipos, then need to fix a cracked brake line and we are ready to rock!

 

[sikbrik]

Sweet! Can't wait for an action video...

 

[Quinc]

Need to make a few tweaks here and there, tighten the chain, but other then that she is a success! Next I will take her out for a top speed run and better footage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsHu-KVKaOY

 

[Quinc]

Let a bunch of friends ride it off and on over 2 days with all stop starts and donuts etc. Biggest guy being close to 300lbs. And recharging the batteries she took 9ah. and the voltage of the packs was down to 15.84volts from 16.8.

Anyone have a link to a cheap volt and amp gauge that can handle 400amps?

 

[Functional Artist]

Let a bunch of friends ride it off and on over 2 days with all stop starts and donuts etc. Biggest guy being close to 300lbs. And recharging the batteries she took 9ah. and the voltage of the packs was down to 15.84volts from 16.8.

Anyone have a link to a cheap volt and amp gauge that can handle 400amps?

I use these Amp/Volt meters.
They can handle up to 300VDC & 500A

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-300V-50...mV-Shunt-ca-/111403753487?hash=item19f02e600f