Champion vs NGK in my Briggs Mower

[KeeganJohnson92]

Not to start a war here. But i just changed the Champion plug out of my mowers 175 briggs professional (not a kart, but same difference) which only has about 15 hours on it. It was undergapped, fouling, and basically looked like it had done 30k in a car. Popped in an NGK BKR5E and it is better than new. Always took one strong pull or two normal pulls to start. Now it starts before you are halfway thru the rope. Also runs smoother and no misses. I highly reccomend an NGK VPower over whatever cheap plug your engine came with! Im sure most of you know this, or use another quality brand, but ive yet to find an engine of any brand or cylinder count that doesn't run as good or better than oem with and NGK plug. So thats my plug!

 

[anickode]

Champion plugs are crap IMO.

 

[Kartorbust]

I've never had issues with Champion plugs in small gas engines. Long as they are gapped properly, they'll go as long as the service interval is on that engine.

 

[bob58o]

Since on the topic of spark plugs, any reason you went with an "R" (resistor) plug? As opposed to BK5E (non resistor)? And I'm disappointed in myself that I never looked into a non-resistor boot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAtQK6UHs1g

 

[KeeganJohnson92]

That would be because i bought resistors instead of normals for my Mercedes 4.2 V8, and figured the briggs wouldnt know the difference. Will this cause issues like it would my Merc? My car has resistors in the COP boots so thats why i was told not to use them. I figured a primitive engine wouldnt have such tech, seeing as its mostly for radio interference.

 

[bob58o]

That would be because i bought resistors instead of normals for my Mercedes 4.2 V8, and figured the briggs wouldnt know the difference. Will this cause issues like it would my Merc? My car has resistors in the COP boots so thats why i was told not to use them. I figured a primitive engine wouldnt have such tech, seeing as its mostly for radio interference.

No a Resistor type wont hurt anything, nor should a non-resistor. If it is just a simple engine with no CDI or anything, then I don't see any reason why a non-resistor plug wouldn't be just as good if not better. Just kinda thinking out loud. I doubt you would notice any difference with a R or no- R type plug.

 

[KartFab]

if your plug is fouling you might be rich and or getting some oil in the combustion chamber. I had a ngk fouling in my old briggs and it was because my piston was worn and rocking in the bore allowing copious amounts of oil into the combustion chamber. I like NGK's but I dont think it really matters what you get.

 

[KeeganJohnson92]

Im sure ypure right about the resistor. As i said, i only had them because the parts guy gave me the wrong ones. This is a brand new engine with maybe 20hrs on it. It doesnt burn a drop that i have seen. And thats with synthetic 5w40 Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme since break in was completed at 10hrs. So its had time to burn if its going to. Didnt notice the Valvoline 10w30 conventional burn during the short break in changes either. I know an undergapped plug is not a quality of material issue, but considering it was a briggs labeled plug they should have gapped it right because they knew the application. Ive yet to get an incorrectly gapped NGK for the 15 or so engines, half V8s, that ive put them in. My first Mustang had a set and so i just kept buying them.

 

[bob58o]

I've checked a bunch of my NGK plugs laying around.
My BPR6ES's all have gaps around 0.025" (new in the box with protective sleeves on the firing ends). Quickly checking online, it seems they should be at 0.036".

Will a wider gap give a better burn? Provided the gap isn't too wide for the combustion conditions.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Will a wider gap give a better burn? Provided the gap isn't too wide for the combustion conditions.

It's generally preferred in automotive applications. '80s and '90s Ford 5.0s frequently had plug gap in the 0.050+ range. Generally it's better to use whatever plug and gap the factory recommends unless the engine has been substantially modified.

 

[KeeganJohnson92]

Interesting. I use ngks gap as listed online and variance has been .003 or less out of the box. I figure the manufacturers reccomendation is for their recommended plug. *shrug* haven't had any issues. But i have automotive adhd and usually only put 50-100k on and get something different. I change plugs at 30k and usually they dont look bad. But i maintain everything else well too so im sure it all adds up.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Ultimately the functional difference between a new good plug and a new great plug won't register at all on the butt dyno. It may not even register on an actual dyno.

I think NGK makes a higher-quality plug than Champion, but I've not yet had a defective one from either. I have NGKs in my truck and Champions in one of my cars. Utility engines have such a low specific output that they generally don't care as long as the plug sparks when it should.

Generally it's better to use whatever plug and gap the factory recommends

Just to clarify, by "factory" I was referring to the engine manufacturer, not the spark plug maker. I always check new plug gaps and rarely have to adjust them for any given engine, but they should still be checked.

Then there are all the "creative" electrode designs. IMO, they are gimmicks. Look up pictures of antique spark plugs and you'll see that the gimmicky designs around now were tried 100+ years ago. Look at the one tip layout that has survived all this time: it's the standard single side ground strap with a center electrode.

 

[bob58o]

Just to clarify, by "factory" I was referring to the engine manufacturer, not the spark plug maker. I always check new plug gaps and rarely have to adjust them for any given engine, but they should still be checked.

I found online that most of the GX series engines ask for 0.028" to 0.031" spark plug gap. Not sure if I ever checked a Predator manual for the recommended gap, but I'm sure if it works for a gx200, it also works for a 212, or for a 5hp briggs.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I'd be comfortable using the Honda spec since it's the base design anyway.

Something else I recommend is verifying that number conversions were done correctly in any manual. I eventually find errors and typos in every one. A decimal in the wrong place, multiplication done when it should have been division, rounding errors, mislabeled units, etc. That's with factory service manuals from the likes of Toyota, Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha....the no-name stuff is worse.

 

[bob58o]

I'd be comfortable using the Honda spec since it's the base design anyway.

Something else I recommend is verifying that number conversions were done correctly in any manual. I eventually find errors and typos in every one. A decimal in the wrong place, multiplication done when it should have been division, rounding errors, mislabeled units, etc. That's with factory service manuals from the likes of Toyota, Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha....the no-name stuff is worse.

You don't trust the conversions? LOL
I'm trying to find a picture of the Predator box.
Apparently when you convert mm to inches, the 212 crankshaft becomes a gx160 crankshaft.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Yeah, that's what I'm talking about.

To be fair, it's not likely to cause real problems for anyone. I've seen expensive FSMs that get the units wrong on a torque spec like mixing up inch and foot pounds.

You want 100ft-lbs on this 1/4" bolt? Oh....kay.