Hemi Build #3 -Boogie Woogie Woogie

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bob58o

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I paid $20 so you guys only have to pay $5 instead of $11.

Stainless Steel Hemi Predator Valve Spring Shims.
0.020" Thick.
Fit in Hemi Head Valve Spring Pockets for Under-Spring Shimming
Only Available Here.
Protect your fragile Aluminum Cylinder Head From the harsh abuse of the Valve Springs.
Install your Valve Springs to the correct installed height by shimming. Chinese Engines have loose tolerances. Correct that by shimming your valve springs.

$5 per pair. Free Shipping to the lower 48.
Paypal Only.
 

bob58o

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The weirdo down the street from me has some new stuff.
 

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bob58o

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Always crazy stuff out in the yard.

I ordered a $20 rotary tool with flex shaft?
Anybody got one of these WEN Flexshaft Kits?

I want to finish the ports. I like the mini air pencil die grinder from HF for the 1/8" dremel accessories. I haven't had the cajones to run my air compressor in my apartment while doing a head. Drill press, sure - for hours. Angle Grinder, absolutely - neighbors must hate me. But I want an electric tool for working inside. The Chicago Electric electric die grinder is good for 1/8" shanks, but I can't get into the ports with it. I like the HF Air Die Grinder with extension for 1/4" shanks. I use this for sanding rolls. Longer shanks to get deep into the port.

So I also want an electric die grinder that takes a 1/4" collet. I've researched this a bit before and think I liked a Makita. Not sure which one and Not sure why I didn't like the Harbor Freight one.

Anybody have any of these?
https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-die-grinder-with-long-shaft-44141.html
http://www.performancetoolcenter.co...VTxyqpjybOYG2KL8zqO3nq9n_JrOXDwxoCApQQAvD_BwE
http://www.performancetoolcenter.com/makita-gd0800c-1-4-in-sjs-variable-speed-electric-die-grinder/
https://www.toolbarn.com/makita-gd0...e7hAp_pcrid_185515607656_pkw_PLA_pmt_b_pdv_c_

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0bRpDAYafw
 

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65ShelbyClone

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The big electric one would probably work alright with some way to control the speed (it looks like a drill motor without the gear reduction and speed trigger). 25,000rpm with a 1/4" carbide is going to move metal really fast.

A variac maybe? Phase angle controller? I dunno.
 

bob58o

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The big electric one would probably work alright with some way to control the speed (it looks like a drill motor without the gear reduction and speed trigger). 25,000rpm with a 1/4" carbide is going to move metal really fast.

A variac maybe? Phase angle controller? I dunno.

Don't they make some kind of variable speed foot pedal controller for power tools?
Or this is for up to 15 amps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
 

bob58o

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I took a short ram break from little engines.
For some reason I thought the stock 240HP at the crank was decent for an 2011 N/A 6 cylinder.
The stock 7 second 0-60 MPH says otherwise.

2011 Ford Fusion SEL 3.0 Flex Fuel
Going to get a tune, or two, or three.
87 octane, 92 or 93 octane, E-85 (maybe).
Steeda Claims 25-31HP gain at the wheels with this intake and a tune. Hmmm??? Too good to be true. The stock intake looked very good. It pulled air from the wheel well and was pretty straight. This heat shied has a notch cut out to access that same air. How much HP is there to be gained from a tune. Is 25HP realistic?
 

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Texan

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Stay away from E-85. Some years ago when gas was ridiculously high, I tried to save a few bucks and try E-85 on my Flex Fuel Chevy Tahoe. Only used it for a few months, but the damage was done. Tahoe started running chitty and then fuel pump took a dump. PITA to change it, had to drop the tank, did it myself but the pump still ran me about $400. Did some research and a lot people had same fuel related issues when running E-85. I don't know why they even make that corn syrup.
 

bob58o

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I was thinking the ethanol wouldn't be worth the mess.
Never tried to run E-85 in my car. I did have to change a fuel pump in my car. I didn't do it, but I paid to have it done. $750 IIRC.

Steeda says they have a Tune for E-85, but I think I'll just get an 87 tune to start. Then maybe one for Premium Gas. I'm sure I'll see better gas mileage with a tune AND removing hundreds of pounds of stuff from the back of my car. LOL If my foot doesn't get too heavy after the tune. LOL

Next will be spark plugs and upper intake manifold gasket replacement. - Which reminds me... I wanted to clean the MAF sensor and Throttle Body before I tighten everything up here.

A site called Cordova sells performance throttle bodies. Looks like "modified" performance versions of the stock ones. Think any gains are to be had from a "performance" or larger throttle body? I've read about people slapping 3.7L Mazda 6 Throttle Bodies on 3.0 L Mazdas with a tapered throttle body spacer or something.
http://cordovamotorsports.com/cgi-bin/CMS/shop_mastr
 

bob58o

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I ended up getting the cheap HF one with the poor reviews.
Home Depot didn’t stock the Makita one I wanted.

Add variable speed controller, on/off pedal, and replacement plan (cause the reviews said it sucks)

$13.99 for On/Off Pedal
$19.99 Router Speed Controller
$44.99 Electric Die Grinder
$10.99 Two Year Replacement Plan
-$9.00 (20% Off Grinder)
————————————————————
$80.96 plus tax
$88.85 after tax for the whole shebang.
 

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bob58o

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So much P2V clearance!!
 

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bob58o

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I think my ports are about done. They look like what I guessed the ports should like on an engine with what I think my powerband might be. LOL Is that even a thought, let alone a sentence? Maybe I'll try to clean up those "Edges" around the valve guide?
 

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bob58o

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Better? Had to find the right bit.
Remind me to tape up the valve seats so I don't fudge them up anymore. I had to lap so much to fix my errors, my 3 angle valve job is just about a big 45 now. And always save the valve job for last if possible!!!!!

Should I try for 80 grit for the back of the intake bowl too?
It came back from the machine shop pretty smooth after having the seat/bowl blended.
 

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bob58o

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