Just impulse bought another go-kart.... and it doesn't work. :| help!

[KingCobra]

Looks like a Hemi 212 Preditor!! I saw the valve cover....... Then that second carb may work, BUT, it looks like a fuel sensor on the bottom side of that flat bowl which is common on lawn mowers. Darn things are as bad a governors LOL!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[isuckateverything]

KingCobra, did you see this album?

https://imgur.com/a/5u5Ic

I posted some pictures of the engine at the end.. if you want another angle please tell me.

 

[KingCobra]

Yep, looks like the same carb you found......

https://www.amazon.com/HURI-Carbure...pID=51W27zW3m0L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

---------- Post added at 06:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 PM ----------

KingCobra, did you see this album?

https://imgur.com/a/5u5Ic

I posted some pictures of the engine at the end.. if you want another angle please tell me.

Yes, that is where I saw that rectangle looking valve cover AND if it appears to be cast aluminum, then it's a hemi 212cc Preditor.,

 

[isuckateverything]

Looks like a Hemi 212 Preditor!! I saw the valve cover....... Then that second carb may work, BUT, it looks like a fuel sensor on the bottom side of that flat bowl which is common on lawn mowers. Darn things are as bad a governors LOL!!!!!!!!!!!

Cool so it's a Hemi 212, uhhh, what does that mean in comparison to a non-hemi predator?

and a fuel sensor?

does that mean im screwed?

teach me king, what should my next step be

 

[KingCobra]

https://www.amazon.com/HIFROM-Repal...pID=41ewDPpfJQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

---------- Post added at 06:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

Cool so it's a Hemi 212, uhhh, what does that mean in comparison to a non-hemi predator?

and a fuel sensor?

does that mean im screwed?

teach me king, what should my next step be

Never mind fuel sensor. Must be a drain of sorts. No problem

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

It appears you have a Stage ?? 3?? racing motor. That is a Preditor 212cc with the header, cool air filter, etc. It just means that the garbage has been removed n favor of other parts that help it breath and run stronger..

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------

Yes, that carb should put you back in the gas fuel business. I had an alcohol 5hp briggs 8 years ago on a race cart like yours and I had to change the jets and the spark plug if I'm not mistaken. OR maybe just the plug. I don't remember, been a while.

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 PM ----------

https://www.amazon.com/Poweka-Carbu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=15M153F655E3XYNHP20G

---------- Post added at 07:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:05 PM ----------

I didn't think that Preditor 212 cc engines were allowed in a racing class......hmmm

 

[isuckateverything]

https://www.amazon.com/HIFROM-Repal...pID=41ewDPpfJQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

---------- Post added at 06:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------



Never mind fuel sensor. Must be a drain of sorts. No problem

---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

It appears you have a Stage ?? 3?? racing motor. That is a Preditor 212cc with the header, cool air filter, etc. It just means that the garbage has been removed n favor of other parts that help it breath and run stronger..

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------

Yes, that carb should put you back in the gas fuel business. I had an alcohol 5hp briggs 8 years ago on a race cart like yours and I had to change the jets and the spark plug if I'm not mistaken. OR maybe just the plug. I don't remember, been a while.

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 PM ----------

https://www.amazon.com/Poweka-Carbu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=15M153F655E3XYNHP20G

---------- Post added at 07:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:05 PM ----------

I didn't think that Preditor 212 cc engines were allowed in a racing class......hmmm

are you making fun of my predator? seems like you want to challenge me to a race !




p.s- just bought 2 carbs, in case 1 doesn't work, i have another one to try, and a glass fuel filter which should help with longevity hopefully.

just hoping this works! can't wait for friday ;D

thanks again king for your fast help

 

[jandj]

The line you have from "The OHV cap" is the pulse line to the fuel pump. It's attached to the fitting in the valve cover.
That's where the pulse (not vacuum) to work the fuel pump comes from.
If you go to a gravity feed tank you're gonna need a valve cover without a hole in it.
There's nothing wrong with a pulse pump, pretty much all race Karts use them.
FWIW, a "red clone" motor ofttimes is a Ducor, could be a 196, could be a 212.
Hard to say without a serial # to look up.

 

[isuckateverything]

The line you have from "The OHV cap" is the pulse line to the fuel pump. It's attached to the fitting in the valve cover.
That's where the pulse (not vacuum) to work the fuel pump comes from.
If you go to a gravity feed tank you're gonna need a valve cover without a hole in it.
There's nothing wrong with a pulse pump, pretty much all race Karts use them.
FWIW, a "red clone" motor ofttimes is a Ducor, could be a 196, could be a 212.
Hard to say without a serial # to look up.

do i really need a valve cover without a hole in it? what if i keep it as is.

 

[jandj]

Just cap off the fitting.

 

[isuckateverything]

alright so good news and bad news. (long story warning)

i installed the new fuel lines/filter, new spark plug (just cause i had it laying around), and the new carb.

now the old carb's jet was super stripped, my guess is the owner tried to take it out but instead all he did was completely strip the brass jet. could be the main issue it didn't start.

anyway, after replacing the carb, i decided to take out the stock jet in the new carb and use the .36 jet from ebay with the emulsion tube, since it had a open air intake filter i assumed it wouldn't work with the stock jets/tube like the other predator 212.

ok, so i switched it all out and installed it onto the cart, gave it 2 pulls and it starts, but the wheels are spinning super fast, and the choke is all the way to the left...

seems like i did something wrong here, but me being excited that i got it to work i decided to rev it up a bit to see if it bogs out.. and it didn't bog out at all, it worked perfectly fine.. however when i turned the choke off (all the way to the right) it died out in a few seconds.

so i thought the jet upgrade was probably what caused it, so i removed the carb and installed the stock jet and emulsion tube.. now this time, when pulling to start, the actual handle and mechanism that I pull has gotten super hard.. (lots of resistance), and when i pull it up to about the halfway point with a bit of force it SNAPS right back down.. sorta scared me the first time since it was pulling back so aggressively.

what could cause this? because now it's making it painful to pull start since it pulls off a bit of skin every time i attempt to start it.

 

[isuckateverything]

anything guys? need halp

 

[OzFab]

I've seen a sheared flywheel key cause this... among other things...

Free tip: When working on an engine, it's always a good idea to remove the chain, just to make life a bit easier...

 

[bob58o]

That is how pull starts work.
Pull slowly until you feel the resistance of the compression stroke. Not trying to start it, just trying to turn it over. THEN, once you feel the compression stroke, grab firmly and give it a good pull to try to start it. Grabbing loosely and trying to start it like that will surely bust up some knuckles or something.

 

[bob58o]

I've seen a sheared flywheel key cause this...

I've just seen this same problem on FB and it turned out to be a sheared FW key.

 

[KingCobra]

Did you forget to check the oil? When engines run and get hot and the oil level is nearly non existent, things inside the engine in general, especially them aluminum pistons, get hot and swell up. It's called seizure but I doubt you would run an engine without oil in it. Well, I just don't know what to say now. Did you wait a couple hours and try it again? IF it still pulls hard....Try and check what they said ^^^^^^^

 

[isuckateverything]

Did you forget to check the oil? When engines run and get hot and the oil level is nearly non existent, things inside the engine in general, especially them aluminum pistons, get hot and swell up. It's called seizure but I doubt you would run an engine without oil in it. Well, I just don't know what to say now. Did you wait a couple hours and try it again? IF it still pulls hard....Try and check what they said ^^^^^^^

dammit, I forgot all about the oil, it was black when i got it, need to switch it out for the new bottle i got for it.

also, how many ounces should i put inside?

will update again, with a video perhaps to show you what it sounds like

 

[KingCobra]

Hahahahahahahahahaha, I know you have to be kidding me!!! I never measure but somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of a quart The book says>>Engine Oil Capacity: 0.5 Quart

 

[jandj]

Take the red side cover off and see if you can easily turn the flywheel by hand.
If you can, you need to check the aforementioned key.
If you can't, pull the spark plug and see if you can turn it with a socket on the flywheel nut.
Let us know what you find before doing anything else.

 

[bob58o]

also, how many ounces should i put inside?

I like 17-18oz with no low oil sensor. Probably 16oz if the sensor is still in the block. Adding additional vents to the block allows you to run a bit more oil and keep that oil in the block.

Last time I filled it until it came out of the fill hose.

Or just check the dipstick, dipstick.

 

[KingCobra]

Well, there ya have it.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANf-rObSYSA