Baja Warrior "build" thread

[Panhead5496]

As many of you know, I got a Baja Warrior cheap off Facebook (http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?p=483868&posted=1#post483868)

Now it's time to fix it up! Going to document the "build" (I say "build" since I'm not actually building it!) here as I go

First off, I need some recommendations on parts. I need:

A new pullstart http://www.ebay.com/itm/370891907484

A new throttle set up http://www.ebay.com/itm/381898707396

New brake lever/cable set...suggestions??

Maybe a new carb? http://www.ebay.com/itm/122435083294

Front shocks...they seem to be stuck/rusted. Not sure the best option there yet

And whatever else I see as I go. Any thoughts on the links above? Will they all be good for it?

I am excited about this project...I think my dad is going to be really surprised! I will post some updates as I go

 

[Hellion]

You don't need no steenkin' recommendations...you made them all yourself.
But you gave the illusion that you needed help, that's what's important. That's like conforming to the forum--keeping up appearances. Lol

Good links and good prices...be on the lookout for even lower prices there while you're at it. I have the same throttle and grip set on my Honda XL. Dead ringer for stock/OEM. Works good and very slick.

Like I said, you can probably find all that stuff several dollars cheaper but the difference is that they will likely come direct from mainland China and the wait times are completely and utterly variable.... sometimes fast sometimes super slow.

 

[Panhead5496]

You don't need no steenkin' recommendations...you made them all yourself.
But you gave the illusion that you needed help, that's what's important. That's like conforming to the forum--keeping up appearances. Lol

Hehehe

Good links and good prices...be on the lookout for even lower prices there while you're at it. I have the same throttle and grip set on my Honda XL. Dead ringer for stock/OEM. Works good and very slick.

Oh yes, I've been doing some digging for sure!

Like I said, you can probably find all that stuff several dollars cheaper but the difference is that they will likely come direct from mainland China and the wait times are completely and utterly variable.... sometimes fast sometimes super slow.

China stuff can be put on the sailboat to US lol

I am going to order this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Grip-K...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649

All I will need then is a brake cable...might can make the one I have work.

I'll get pics soon, going to work on getting rear fender looking better while I wait for engine repair

 

[Panhead5496]

Still at shop, say they are really busy

Haven't painted fender yet, am out of paint and have had no time to get some more lol

So I've been thinking about the frame and painting it. If I just take off all the parts I don't want painted, will a few cans of spray paint do the job? What kind should I use? I saw a guy on YouTube (redbeard maybe?) use black truck liner, looked pretty good. Anybody have any painting experiences they want to share??

Also, the front shocks are worrying me a little. I remember that they don't move at all, and it seems the cap on top is gone. How hard is it going to be to fix that?!

 

[Hellion]

A few cans of spray paint should do; paint and primer. For rattle can paint, I use Rust-Oleum almost exclusively but it depends on colors and what is available by manufacturer.

How is the frame anyway? Is it a rusted hulk with rust breaking out everywhere or just dirty? Could be all it needs is a cleaning and polishing.

I'd strip the frame, honestly, before you do any painting instead of trying to paint it with things still attached. That way you can see all the areas that would otherwise remain hidden.

Are the fenders metal or plastic?

 

[Panhead5496]

Rustoleum usually work pretty well for me. Good idea

From what I remember it was pretty solid looking. Maybe a slight bit of rust here and there but nothing major. The biggest issue is going to be the front shocks I'm afraid

Hmm, how does one go about stripping a frame? I'm assuming you mean the paint in it, but the parts and stuff lol

The front fender is metal, the rear is plastic. I'm not sure why they aren't the same

 

[OzFab]

In this case, I think he means strip the frame of all parts...

After that, at the very least, I'd scrub the frame with a scourer (or, even better, purple scotchbrite) & water; this will remove any dirt & loose paint & also create a paintable surface (paint won't stick to a shiny surface)...

After that, "feather*" any chips & rust then clean the whole thing with wax & grease remover; THEN you're ready for primer...

*Feather = rub with a medium grade sandpaper (~180 grit) to remove any hard edges around chips, etc...

 

[Hellion]

I figure Rust-Oleum is cheap insurance. It has zinc and other rust inhibitors in the formula so longevity-wise, it should last a pretty long while before the cancer breaks out again.


Right. Strip the parts off the frame completely. That way, you can get the paint sprayer all the way around the seat post, the rear axle supports, down tubes, or whatever the heck it's all called. With the rear wheel left on, for instance, you won't get paint on the inside areas, at least not very well. Your choice though. I suppose a real clever fella could get by leaving everything on...


I would not strip the frame of paint all the way down to bare metal, unless of course there's just rust bubbling up like leopard spots everywhere. There'd be no need for that otherwise.


Also agree with Oz. A Scotchbrite (names may vary) pad works wonders as well as 300-400 grit sandpaper, give or take on the grit. Sometimes sandpaper is too aggressive for what you're trying to do.


Further agreeing with Oz. "Feathering" is exactly what I've been doing as of late in regards to blemishes and chipped paint. You feather it, saving the rest of the paint nearby if it is otherwise pristine, and once re-coated, it will all blend in fantastically. I was doing a lot of this by wet sanding...


Yep, also de-grease/de-wax the frame and then do it again. Oil and grease's gonna be nearly soaked into the steel around the engine and the rear axle area, around the chain and whatnot.

Where's those pics? I'm not sure what condition your bike is really in.

 

[Hellion]

I'm not sure what you can do about your front fork issue as they don't appear to be serviceable a la motorcycle forks (separate pieces that can be disassembled, cleaned, oil added, etc.)

But they have a part number and come as assembled units...

Here's the part number string: #46 987986001 MB200-159 Front Fork (Black) 2

I stole it off this parts manual--http://www.bajamotorsports.com/files/parts_catalogs/Mini%20Bike/MB200_MB200C_117_rpl%20&%20r_ref%20only_01_9.24.12.pdf

 

[KingCobra]

Rustoleum usually work pretty well for me. Good idea

From what I remember it was pretty solid looking. Maybe a slight bit of rust here and there but nothing major. The biggest issue is going to be the front shocks I'm afraid

Hmm, how does one go about stripping a frame? I'm assuming you mean the paint in it, but the parts and stuff lol

The front fender is metal, the rear is plastic. I'm not sure why they aren't the same

The spray epoxy or industrial size cans, I believe by Rustoleum is found at Home Depot works great and has a tough hard shell when cured. I buy the taller can as it's worth the money. They also have appliance paint that is tough as nails also but you will only find it in general colors.

 

[Panhead5496]

In this case, I think he means strip the frame of all parts...

Gotcha! I thought so too

After that, at the very least, I'd scrub the frame with a scourer (or, even better, purple scotchbrite) & water; this will remove any dirt & loose paint & also create a paintable surface (paint won't stick to a shiny surface)...

Will do, was planning on giving it a good bath

After that, "feather*" any chips & rust then clean the whole thing with wax & grease remover; THEN you're ready for primer...

Ok, will do

I figure Rust-Oleum is cheap insurance. It has zinc and other rust inhibitors in the formula so longevity-wise, it should last a pretty long while before the cancer breaks out again.

Yeah, I have outdoor painted furniture with it and holds up well to the weather, and it stays outside all the time


Right. Strip the parts off the frame completely. That way, you can get the paint sprayer all the way around the seat post, the rear axle supports, down tubes, or whatever the heck it's all called. With the rear wheel left on, for instance, you won't get paint on the inside areas, at least not very well. Your choice though. I suppose a real clever fella could get by leaving everything on...

No, I was planning on taking it all off for sure. Will be way easier in the long run!!

I would not strip the frame of paint all the way down to bare metal, unless of course there's just rust bubbling up like leopard spots everywhere. There'd be no need for that otherwise.

Ok, I will take it all off the bike and see what needs to be done for sure

Yep, also de-grease/de-wax the frame and then do it again. Oil and grease's gonna be nearly soaked into the steel around the engine and the rear axle area, around the chain and whatnot.

I had already thought of that! Might be tricky to get it completely degreased...

Where's those pics? I'm not sure what condition your bike is really in.

Lol, the pics I posted are all I have. Bike is still as shop and didn't think to take more pics

I'm not sure what you can do about your front fork issue as they don't appear to be serviceable a la motorcycle forks (separate pieces that can be disassembled, cleaned, oil added, etc.)

But they have a part number and come as assembled units...

Here's the part number string: #46 987986001 MB200-159 Front Fork (Black) 2

I stole it off this parts manual--http://www.bajamotorsports.com/files/parts_catalogs/Mini%20Bike/MB200_MB200C_117_rpl%20&%20r_ref%20only_01_9.24.12.pdf

I might have to either order some new forks, or just leave them not working. Again, when I get it back I can diagnosis it better

The spray epoxy or industrial size cans, I believe by Rustoleum is found at Home Depot works great and has a tough hard shell when cured. I buy the taller can as it's worth the money. They also have appliance paint that is tough as nails also but you will only find it in general colors.

Thanks, I like that stuff too

 

[Panhead5496]

These came in the mail today! $9.99 shipped seems like a steal! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Grip-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The cables I already have should work well enough. Can't wait to get this bike back and get to work!!

 

[Hellion]

Lol, the pics I posted are all I have. Bike is still as shop and didn't think to take more pics

...I might have to either order some new forks, or just leave them not working. Again, when I get it back I can diagnosis it better

The forks might be slightly seized, you know, exposure to constant moisture such that they froze in place. You might be able to break them free by putting your weight on the forks, doing a few hard jumps with 'em, etc., all the while dousing the shocks with penetrating fluid and letting it run past the fork seals...

Hopefully you can get the bike back before Christmas!

...The front fender is metal, the rear is plastic. I'm not sure why they aren't the same

I know why. It's a parts bike! Nah, just mismatched fenders, meaning the front fender is an early Warrior/MB200/MB195 feature. The plastic fender is a late feature or more recent. They're all plastic now, to include the fake gas tank which also used to be metal at one time.

These came in the mail today! $9.99 shipped seems like a steal!

The cables I already have should work well enough. Can't wait to get this bike back and get to work!!

That throttle/dummy grip set does look good. Thanks for finding it for me.

 

[Panhead5496]

Ok shop just called and left me a message...the lady sounded rather peeved with the whole thing lol. I told her I had the brake/throttle assembly when I took it. She said she wasn't sure how far I wanted to go, there was no brakes, or throttle etc. LOL fail

I just ordered a new carb, and brake pad as well

The only thing that concerns me is that she said the engine had low compression...she said it was maybe the valves? Not sure about that. What would low compression mean?

Y'all be honest. Should I scrap the engine and buy a Predator...or is it worth putting money into?

 

[Mr. Spindle]

Ok shop just called and left me a message...the lady sounded rather peeved with the whole thing lol. I told her I had the brake/throttle assembly when I took it. She said she wasn't sure how far I wanted to go, there was no brakes, or throttle etc. LOL fail

I just ordered a new carb, and brake pad as well

The only thing that concerns me is that she said the engine had low compression...she said it was maybe the valves? Not sure about that. What would low compression mean?

Y'all be honest. Should I scrap the engine and buy a Predator...or is it worth putting money into?

scrape it and predator it
it is the way
it's your only choice if she said something like that

 

[Panhead5496]

Ok. I was thinking low compression was a bad thing!

I'm looking for a cheap predator engine now

 

[bob58o]

I'm looking for a cheap predator engine now

Get on GA-10 Loop W/US-129 S/US-29 S/US-441 S/US-78 W from Branch St
3 min (0.8 mi)

Follow GA-10 Loop W/US-29 S/US-78 W to Epps Bridge Pkwy in Oconee County. Take exit 1 from GA-10 Loop W/US-29 S/US-78 W
6 min (6.2 mi)

Turn right onto Epps Bridge Pkwy
1 min (0.3 mi)

Harbor Freight Tools
1850 Epps Bridge Pkwy STE 315, Athens, GA 30606


Coupon Code
44150759
$95
212cc Predator

 

[Panhead5496]

Well...stalker ^^ lol

But the shop called back. Said they checked the valves and that seemed to be the problem. I ordered a new carb to take them with gaskets and they say they should get it running fine. If it doesn't work I'll just get a predator!

 

[Hellion]

I don't trust that shop... unless you trust them/been going there for 20 years/they're engine gods/etc.

Could be a simple valve adjustment is needed. I like those "Baja 200" engines though, they seem to start better than Predaturds and... they gots the neat-o lighting coil for the headlight... bada bing!

But yet this shop continues to hold your mini bike hostage...

the plot thickens.

This is not, however, a "build thread". It's something else, held up in limbo. The gods are obviously not happy with you Panhead. The forum weeps...

 

[Panhead5496]

I have no reason to not trust the shop. My dad has been taking stuff there for years, and they are reasonable priced and very helpful.

Hmm I think they are adjusting the valves. I have no idea how to do it.

Yes the Baja engine is good. I like the one on mine just as much as the predator on my go cart.

They aren't holding it hostage...they are just waiting to get some parts from me lol

I see your point on the build thread part. When I get it back and sorted out I will update the first post so future readers can skip the "fixing" part

I hope that the carb gets here soon. I can take it by next week and should have it back soon after that