Where are most you buying your metal tubing from?

[Poboy kartman]

If you're talking about the laughable raw material stock they cary, you're right. Their welding supplies are actually decent. When it comes to welding rod, I personally prefer Lincoln's range as #1; Hobart is a good second (don't get me started on the no name brand they buy at work).

I've had excellent results with Hobart MIG wire, and my local store also carries tanked oxygen, acetylene, and 75/25 argon/co2 for mig welding. Kind of nice, being able to swap out an empty tank on a Sunday afternoon. And the #10 gold filter lense for my welding helmet is one of the best things I've ever bought there (WORKS AWESOME!!!!!!!!).

Yeah....Tractor Supply has a bunch of awesome stuff....but steel stock isn't one of them.

 

[chancer]

I made my First trip to TSC today. I saw the Hobart wire and wondered about it. Glad Mach brought it up. But Holy Cow 22 bucks a pound??? The Superior Lincoln wire is 11 at HD.

 

[Jfive]

Sure it wasn't 2 lbs vs 1 lb? I have a gold shade 10 for my non auto hood. The reflection factor makes it night and day for welding. We usually have Lincoln rod at work but one Forman is always trying to save money and bought some cheaper German rod for 7018 and it's not as good for sure. Slag doesn't peel off the same.

 

[Mr. Spindle]

Home Depot man..


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[machinist@large]

I made my First trip to TSC today. I saw the Hobart wire and wondered about it. Glad Mach brought it up. But Holy Cow 22 bucks a pound??? The Superior Lincoln wire is 11 at HD.

My local TSC store is less than 10 minutes away; the closest HD is well over half an hour away. It's all a matter of what you are willing to pay for convenience. EOS.

 

[chancer]

My local TSC store is less than 10 minutes away; the closest HD is well over half an hour away. It's all a matter of what you are willing to pay for convenience. EOS.

Well I don't know how "union members" think about money,

But a 100% Markup! I'll drive the extra 10 minutes!

 

[supermanotorious]

Oh man, I didn't know I could get Argon outside of a dedicated welding store. I can see myself getting it at TSC on rare occasion- when I run out between a Saturday afternoon and Monday morning. Sure it would come at a premium, but I wouldn't have to switch over to that damm flux-core to finish the job.

 

[machinist@large]

Well I don't know how "union members" think about money,

But a 100% Markup! I'll drive the extra 10 minutes!

:toetap05: :toetap05: :toetap05:

I'll address your last comment first. The only way I can get welding rod SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper is to buy at least 5 lbs (~2.5 kg) at a time from one of my industrial suppliers. That's a lot of rod that needs to be stored properly, i.e. kept perfectly dry. While I weld frequently at work, the only time my Dad and I went through most of a 5 lb can of 7018 was when we converted the corn planter for no till. A one lb pack of fresh rod is extremely cheap insurance when you only fire up the big dog 2~3 times a year. And up until this past spring when I had to let the mig go to help defray medical bills, it did all the light work.

As for the snide "UNION" comment, I joined the Union so I would have the legal standing to go after the problem children in house. As for Union's in general, I'm going to loosely quote from memory an OP ED piece I read over 25 year's ago....

1) If you work at a job where you get overtime pay after 40 hours in a week, thank the Union's.

2) If you have any type of paid medical insurance at your job, thank the Union's.

3) Complain all you want about OSHA; the Union's lead the fight for it's creation in direct response to the number of serious injuries and deaths in their ranks. And I can tell you for a fact that there are still business owners in this country that would consider the death of an employee (s) to be just the cost of doing business because I had to work there just long enough to get the out.

I would strongly recommend that you try reading up on the history of labor relations in this country in the first two decades of the last century before you start throwing that kind of attitude around as gospel.

 

[chancer]

:toetap05: :toetap05: :toetap05:
I would strongly recommend that you try reading up on the history of labor relations in this country in the first two decades of the last century before you start throwing that kind of attitude around as gospel.

I would definitely agree with you on this last part. Yes in 1890 (126) Years ago the rail roads and the Coal mines had the definite need for a Union. They Literally worked people to death.
They served a purpose and that purpose was fulfilled years ago.
Look what union Labor costs have done to your nearby Detroit. in the end of the last century on the first decade of this one. And I will NEVER thank a union for helping to invent the STUPIDITY that is OSHA! May be good for your industry but seriously, They mandate idiotic crap for DESK JOCKEYS as well.

Honestly I was just poking at you for fun.
My biggest beef with unions is GOVERNMENT Unions. The Union was Desperately needed in an 1890 Coal mine To save lives and Protect workers from Greedy Evil Bosses.
But how is a Government Greedy and Evil? and a Union needed to protect workers from Their Govt Boss? It makes no sense. Govt, turn no profit there is no Greed only waste. Really Fire fighters and Police and nurses and School teachers need a Union???? PULLEASE!

 

[SparetimeK]

New guy here.

I'm trying to find 7/8" 0.085 thickness tubing for a mini bike build. The local suppliers haven't been able to find it. Is this a common size or should I be looking for something different. I know the throttles and brakes are made for 7/8 OD, but I just can't seem to find it. One supplier is fairly large and usually can find it if it exists. Any suggestions?

 

[Poboy kartman]

New guy here.

I'm trying to find 7/8" 0.085 thickness tubing for a mini bike build. The local suppliers haven't been able to find it. Is this a common size or should I be looking for something different. I know the throttles and brakes are made for 7/8 OD, but I just can't seem to find it. One supplier is fairly large and usually can find it if it exists. Any suggestions?

Do what I plan on doing....build the bike out of 1" and just stub out the last little bit of handlebars with conduit or whatever it takes.

You should really start your own threads, BTW....

 

[chancer]

You should really start your own threads, BTW....

No. This was a legit thread to ask a question about where to find 7/8 tube. the thread is "where do you guys get your tube"

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey SparetimeK-

How are you going to bend the material for your project?

Tubing usually costs more (if you can find it) & according to Kartfab, you will need a special bender.

I'll say again...
regular old water pipe is easily obtainable from any hardware store, is 7/8" O.D.(just like you want), less than a buck a foot & you can bend it with a "cheap" HF bender.

Hey Chancer-

You mentioned earlier... "pipe is really heavy I found buying tubing was cheaper, not DOM or Chromemoly"

What kind of tubing do you use?

What is the weight difference? (1 ft of pipe vs. 1 ft of tube)

What is the strength difference?

Here are some Karts (below) built with water pipe.

Nice bends Huh!

 

[ironman]

Nice karts


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[chancer]

I did not say the Pipe would not work.
Your karts look nice.
I have used both 1/2 gas pipe and 1" .065 wall tubing.

I do not know the strength or weight differences. I don't remember exactly $ but tubing was cheaper, even when I bought .120 wall. I just like it better.
No Black paint to deal with no Galv. Just clean Raw mild steel tube.

 

[ironman]

Found a new supplier in Louisville heard they even got a .75 lb scrap pile to go threw.
They even cut ,drill,and bend to for a price


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[OzFab]

The main differences between pipe & tube are:
- pipe is measured by the ID (inside diameter), tube is measured by the OD (outside diameter)
- pipe always has thicker wall than thin wall tube, making it heavier

 

[chancer]

The main differences between pipe & tube are:
- pipe is measured by the ID (inside diameter), tube is measured by the OD (outside diameter)
- pipe always has thicker wall than thin wall tube, making it heavier

Also Tube is designed and sold to be structural, As Pipe is not.
So although it Does work. The Quality control in manufacturing is NOT there.

With the Price and weight I just do not see the point. Other than the Convenience of a Lowes or Home depot in Every town in the states.

Oh yeah I found a receipt. 10" of 1" .065 wall tube 7 bucks.

 

[Functional Artist]

Also Tube is designed and sold to be structural, As Pipe is not.
So although it Does work. The Quality control in manufacturing is NOT there.

With the Price and weight I just do not see the point. Other than the Convenience of a Lowes or Home depot in Every town in the states.

Oh yeah I found a receipt. 10" of 1" .065 wall tube 7 bucks.

Hey Chancer,

Thanks for suppling facts.

I wasn't trying to be confrontational.

I just wanted more information. (data for the forum)

I haven't weighed them but, a foot of 1" tube & a foot of 7/8" water pipe seem to weigh about the same to me & i have never broke a frame made with water pipe that's why I asked if you knew if there was a substantial (documented) difference in strength or weight.

How do you bend your tubing? tubing bender or an actual pipe bender? Any problems with kinking?

& yes, you hit the nail on the head, the main reason for the suggestion was accessibility of this material for the average DIY'er.

FYI; 10' water pipe @ Home Depot here in Toledo runs ~$9.00.

I am on this forum to soak up info & make helpful suggestions from time to time.

You guys are great!

Nice clean up. Negative Vibes evaporates into thin air.

I let my art speak for me.

Looks kool & serves a purpose. Functional Art!

 

[chancer]

Its all good I never wanted to be confrontational. I was speaking from Experience.
Like I said I have used both and like the Tube better.

I have the Orange HF "PIPE" bender. ($40.00 CL) I have had it work great with pipe and kink pipe.
I used it on .065 wall tube and it kinked, I used it on .120 wall pipe with much better results.
I also added a sheet metal "shim" to the 3/4" pipe mandrel to fit the 1" tube nicely.
It is not great for making a 90° bend like for a frame corner. But it worked nicely for making a seat back hoop. Just a couple dimples, no kinks.

To be honest I made my first frame with 1/2 pipe simply because I had the pipe bender.