I am having alot of trouble trying to find the right parts for my Kart. I found these wheels from Harbor Freight and they have a 5/8" ball bearing race hole. I am trying to get all my parts off of www.gokartsupply.com and have even looked in other places for a 24" axle that will fit the 5/8" axle bore in the tire. All i can find is a 1" axle with a 3/4" dropdown. Can you guys help me know what I need to be looking for?
Where can I get my wheels?
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new wheels!
No honestly.. NEW WHEELS... HF wheels collapse under their own weight in minutes (exaggerated to make a point)
They work for a hand truck maybe..
unlikely for a push kart for kids under 7years of age..
for sure not for any weight above that, especially not for more than a few yards down the road.
So buy new wheels.. make sure your rims match a 1" axle; stay away from HF and you'll be fine.
buy at gokartsupply, ombwarehouse, gopowersport etc.pp.
'sid
No honestly.. NEW WHEELS... HF wheels collapse under their own weight in minutes (exaggerated to make a point)
They work for a hand truck maybe..
unlikely for a push kart for kids under 7years of age..
for sure not for any weight above that, especially not for more than a few yards down the road.
So buy new wheels.. make sure your rims match a 1" axle; stay away from HF and you'll be fine.
buy at gokartsupply, ombwarehouse, gopowersport etc.pp.
'sid
So I need to match a 1 inch axle? But the axle is 3/4 inch at the ends.
that's just thread.. not the part the wheel is held on by (most of the time)
there are split rims that use the step down to hold the wheel in place (example);
but frankly it's likely not what you'll be going for anyways.. so don't let that confuse you.
You'll want 1" bores and a locking collar per wheel to stop it from sliding towards the center.
the stepdown ends are either 1.5" or 2" long only.. nowhere near long enough to hold a rim.
'sid
there are split rims that use the step down to hold the wheel in place (example);
but frankly it's likely not what you'll be going for anyways.. so don't let that confuse you.
You'll want 1" bores and a locking collar per wheel to stop it from sliding towards the center.
the stepdown ends are either 1.5" or 2" long only.. nowhere near long enough to hold a rim.
'sid
Ok. Sounds good.
---------- Post added at 07:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 AM ----------
So I put the wheel on the axle, but not the drip down part right? If the drop down section for the bolt is 3/4", and the axle is 1", I need a wheel with a 1" bore in the center and the 3/4" bolt goes on the drop down right?
what bolt?
no bolt involved (at most in the locking collar if needed)
Again, there are several types of rims for that the one you likely end up using has a 1" keyed bore.
(there are also 1" bored hubs.. which a four(or what have you) bolt wheel would attach to.
Those require a locking collar on the axle side to prevent from sliding towards the center;
and a washer and a 3/4" NUT on the outside to prevent it from falling off
the wheel/hub ONLY touches the 1" shaft, NOT the 3/4" step down portion of the axle.
Then there are split rims (there were step-down hubs... but no more IIRC)
split rims work only slightly different:
one half has a 1" bore to slide on the axle, the other half only has a 3/4" bore to rest against the step down shoulder.
Those do not require a locking collar, since they cannot move inwards, but since they still can fall off they too require a washer and a 3/4" nut.
the latter requires more than likely the longer step down to have enough room for the washer and nut to complete thread on.
And this option indeed sits in parts on the 3/4" step down portion of the axle;
the load is still mainly on the 1" shaft though.
no bolt, no drip nor drop involved...
And yes, you need either a live axle hub or bored and keyed rim for 1" axle
or a split rim 1" to 3/4" step down like I linked above [check the listings for live axle wheels there]
'sid
no bolt involved (at most in the locking collar if needed)
Again, there are several types of rims for that the one you likely end up using has a 1" keyed bore.
(there are also 1" bored hubs.. which a four(or what have you) bolt wheel would attach to.
Those require a locking collar on the axle side to prevent from sliding towards the center;
and a washer and a 3/4" NUT on the outside to prevent it from falling off
the wheel/hub ONLY touches the 1" shaft, NOT the 3/4" step down portion of the axle.
Then there are split rims (there were step-down hubs... but no more IIRC)
split rims work only slightly different:
one half has a 1" bore to slide on the axle, the other half only has a 3/4" bore to rest against the step down shoulder.
Those do not require a locking collar, since they cannot move inwards, but since they still can fall off they too require a washer and a 3/4" nut.
the latter requires more than likely the longer step down to have enough room for the washer and nut to complete thread on.
And this option indeed sits in parts on the 3/4" step down portion of the axle;
the load is still mainly on the 1" shaft though.
no bolt, no drip nor drop involved...
And yes, you need either a live axle hub or bored and keyed rim for 1" axle
or a split rim 1" to 3/4" step down like I linked above [check the listings for live axle wheels there]
'sid
what bolt?
no bolt involved (at most in the locking collar if needed)
Again, there are several types of rims for that the one you likely end up using has a 1" keyed bore.
(there are also 1" bored hubs.. which a four(or what have you) bolt wheel would attach to.
Those require a locking collar on the axle side to prevent from sliding towards the center;
and a washer and a 3/4" NUT on the outside to prevent it from falling off
the wheel/hub ONLY touches the 1" shaft, NOT the 3/4" step down portion of the axle.
Then there are split rims (there were step-down hubs... but no more IIRC)
split rims work only slightly different:
one half has a 1" bore to slide on the axle, the other half only has a 3/4" bore to rest against the step down shoulder.
Those do not require a locking collar, since they cannot move inwards, but since they still can fall off they too require a washer and a 3/4" nut.
the latter requires more than likely the longer step down to have enough room for the washer and nut to complete thread on.
And this option indeed sits in parts on the 3/4" step down portion of the axle;
the load is still mainly on the 1" shaft though.
no bolt, no drip nor drop involved...
And yes, you need either a live axle hub or bored and keyed rim for 1" axle
or a split rim 1" to 3/4" step down like I linked above [check the listings for live axle wheels there]
'sid
Exactly! That's exactly what I was wondering. You've been a great help. Thanks pal.
you're welcome
'sid
'sid
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Here is a live axle kit. Everything you need.
Use couponcode DIYGOKARTS for 10% off
https://www.gopowersports.com/live-axle-kit-complete/
Use couponcode DIYGOKARTS for 10% off
https://www.gopowersports.com/live-axle-kit-complete/
Yeah I saw that while searching. Is that a good deal?
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
There are cheaper ones here:
http://www.bmikarts.com/search.asp?keyword=Live+axle+kit&search=
They are not all inclusive though with wheels and Tires.
So by the time you add it all up I think the GPS is a great deal.
Also depends on your location. (HINT) Shipping is always a consideration from BMI karts.
http://www.bmikarts.com/search.asp?keyword=Live+axle+kit&search=
They are not all inclusive though with wheels and Tires.
So by the time you add it all up I think the GPS is a great deal.
Also depends on your location. (HINT) Shipping is always a consideration from BMI karts.
Ok. Thanks for the info.
uhm 24" axle... ?
just saying'
'sid
just saying'
'sid
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
DeathMachine
New member
HF Wheels
Whenever HF has the wheels for $3.99 I buy a few of them. Why?
Because you cannot buy a tire and inner tube for 4 bucks.
The HF wheel will withstand a bit more by replacing the crappy bolts with a grade 5- those HF bolts must be like grade 0 there are so soft. Grade 8 obviously would be best. Problem is, you will pay more for the grade 8 bolts than you paid for the wheel.
The biggest problem after the bolts is runout. HF wheels are a wobbly mess.
If I use the entire wheel, it is only in a low speed use, or at most on a trailer to tow with a kart. I would absolutely never trust them on a steer axle.
Whenever HF has the wheels for $3.99 I buy a few of them. Why?
Because you cannot buy a tire and inner tube for 4 bucks.
The HF wheel will withstand a bit more by replacing the crappy bolts with a grade 5- those HF bolts must be like grade 0 there are so soft. Grade 8 obviously would be best. Problem is, you will pay more for the grade 8 bolts than you paid for the wheel.
The biggest problem after the bolts is runout. HF wheels are a wobbly mess.
If I use the entire wheel, it is only in a low speed use, or at most on a trailer to tow with a kart. I would absolutely never trust them on a steer axle.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
I refuse to use the dollys at work that have had the tires replaced with the HF ones.
They fell apart on my kids tricycle too.
The bolts are not even the issue,
The Hub is sorta pressed in or formed around the thin stamped steel wheel, and they fall apart.
The tires and tubes will not hold any amount of weight. They dry rot in a week!
There is absolutely nothing good about this Tire or wheel.
Even when used as an ahstray, They still do not look cool!
They fell apart on my kids tricycle too.
The bolts are not even the issue,
The Hub is sorta pressed in or formed around the thin stamped steel wheel, and they fall apart.
The tires and tubes will not hold any amount of weight. They dry rot in a week!
There is absolutely nothing good about this Tire or wheel.
Even when used as an ahstray, They still do not look cool!
DeathMachine
New member
Hmm.
These have been on my wagon for about 5 yrs. It sits outside most of the time. I have hauled V8 engines on the wagon. I know I didn't paat more than $5 for them, and I have 4 more in the garage.
I would NOT recommend using the wheel on anything high speed though.
I guess YMMV.
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We went through about 5 sets of Northern Tool 4.99$ wheels in a couple of hours. I imagine they are the same as the HF. I did not have a problem with the bolts, we usually blew the bearings out or ripped the two piece rim off of the hub completely from turns. I would only recommend buying them at that price for the tube and tire. Tubes run $10 bucks a piece at tractor supply and tires can be $15 and up. Plus you get the sub par bearings. I had a set of "haul master" rims that I would just pop the tubes and tires off of the Northern Tool wheels and put them on, but eventually I destroyed the Haul Masters.
Trying to find a decent rim for 5/8 front spindles or swap out my spindles in the front for 3/4.
Trying to find a decent rim for 5/8 front spindles or swap out my spindles in the front for 3/4.
Hellion
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The thing is, you're buying, I mean wasting good money on light duty hand cart wheels. They were never intended for go karting.
Try Azusa (aluminum alloy) or any of the other steel split rim rims. I bought a pair of Azusa-lites that are made of nylon Zytel--a hard "plastic" if you will. Heard good things about them, haven't road tested them yet.
I use Cheng Shin and Kenda or generic lawnmower tires for my karts. If you do your shopping, you can get PACKS of FOUR tubes for $10-$15 on fleabay.
Go to GoPowersports and get 10% discount with code: DIYGOKARTS
MFG Supply has a decent, or rather exceptional set of karting supplies and flat rate shipping.
Quit buying junk! And Northern Tool is expensive. I avoid that place like the plague...
Try Azusa (aluminum alloy) or any of the other steel split rim rims. I bought a pair of Azusa-lites that are made of nylon Zytel--a hard "plastic" if you will. Heard good things about them, haven't road tested them yet.
I use Cheng Shin and Kenda or generic lawnmower tires for my karts. If you do your shopping, you can get PACKS of FOUR tubes for $10-$15 on fleabay.
Go to GoPowersports and get 10% discount with code: DIYGOKARTS
MFG Supply has a decent, or rather exceptional set of karting supplies and flat rate shipping.
Quit buying junk! And Northern Tool is expensive. I avoid that place like the plague...
The only reason we went there is because we were in a hurry to ride
I'm definitely ordering a set of Azusa rims.---------- Post added at 01:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------
Apparently Northern Tool sells the Azusa:
https://www.amazon.com/Azusa-Alumin...UTF8&qid=1472496497&sr=8-1&keywords=Azusa+rim
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