Greeting from Pacific Northwest!

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Genes1s`

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Hey guys....

New to the forum, but been lurking here for awhile.

My 5 years old son has been on "boosted" power wheel for 2 summers and although he likes the drifting part of it, he said that he wanted it to try "real" go kart, so after debating it to the wife and talked to several folks whose kids ran cadet cart, I decided not to get him the real gas go kart, instead I got him this rare Minimoto Electric Cart for $80. It was non running, with several missing plastic parts but tires are new, batteries are new, and the chassis are straight, with good brakes also.

Since then, I thoroughly cleaned it, got it to run on scooter controller, and found few plastic body parts from Craigslist cheap. Rattled can it and my son is a happy little man.








my little guy is still too short to reach the pedal, so my plan is to actually get a small/cadet size real go kart seat and welded few nuts so that the seat can be adjusted. If you guys know where to get those, i'd appreciated a link/website.

So far, the throttle works, the brake works that it cuts of the power when the brake pedal is pressed. The reverse isn't working, the training mode isn't working ( basically low and high speed mode), and charging mode and fuses are not hooked up. I'm working on these issue, along with adding remote kill switch just incase.

The steering system has been bugging me, it's got wheel bearing but knuckle to spindle has no trust bearings and rely on friction. The more you tighten the king pin nut, the tighter the knuckle turns.


My son has to really crank the steering wheel to turn the tires and I think this is safety issue if he has to do that. When I'm on it, it is pretty stiff/tight too, so either the joints are not greased and/or too much friction. Not sure what do to with this, probably will take it apart and reduce all the play and installed trust bearing on the pivot joints. Installing a bigger steering wheel might help also. I also feels like I can modify the steering linkage a little for less effort.
 

Ih82lose

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I remember seeing one of those minimito karts online and wondered how many were made. Would love to pick one up for my boys as well. For now, my 5 year old has a razor kart, but this looks more business. I'm interested in how this turns out. Especially since I'm converting an Emmick kart to electric now, and having a little version would be fun. Very cool project!
 

chancer

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I remember seeing one of those minimito karts online and wondered how many were made. Would love to pick one up for my boys as well. For now, my 5 year old has a razor kart, but this looks more business. I'm interested in how this turns out. Especially since I'm converting an Emmick kart to electric now, and having a little version would be fun. Very cool project!

Fill out your profile. Where are you. This one has been on CL here in So Cal for a while now:
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/for/4924162332.html
 

Genes1s`

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So,

Turns out the steering shaft is bent. Been trying to find replacement for hours with no luck, I might have to get stock/off the shelf shaft and modify it.


I also feel like the ackerman arm can be a little longer to slow the steering rate a little and hopefully with bigger steering wheel, it will make the steering more natural. I'm also thinking of converting the push and pull tie rods with single tie rod on each side.
 

Genes1s`

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Couldn't find steering shaft, so I cut out the middle section that got bent, got 1" DOM tubing and plan to weld it back together. Probably tack it as assembled and finish it off the Kart.



Removed the spindle from the kart and machined the top and bottom bearing surface for 1/8" Delrin washer. Delrin is a good material for thrust bearing application. My goal is to minimize friction on the bearing surface between the spindle and spindle bracket. This thrust bearing allows me to pre-load the king pin bolt a little more while maintaining free spinning spindle.

Delrin Washers.



Installed.

 

Genes1s`

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I'm having scope creep on this project...

Machined a plate to mount switches. The green indicator light is on when the "ignition key" is on. The rectangular slot is for voltmeter indicating the battery life and the bottom rectangular slot is for headlight switch. I'm running separate step down 12V converter to run headlights, brake lights, and other aux light.





 

chancer

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Dude rock on! :thumbsup: That is one lucky 5yr old. Who has more fun you building it or him riding it!:lolgoku:
 

Genes1s`

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Dude rock on! :thumbsup: That is one lucky 5yr old. Who has more fun you building it or him riding it!:lolgoku:

I think we both have fun:thumbsup: He gets to drive flat out and I get excited seeing his smiley face when he was beating his own lap time ( we set up cones on our cul-de-sac)
 

Genes1s`

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Got all the switches to work. Love the kill switch push button. This will shut down the power to controller (basically battery disconnect). The voltmeter is also connected to this switch. The voltmeter also a good indicator how well the charging unit works. The ignition switch has the green light when the key is ON. Brake lights works too!

Kill Switch



Battery Voltmeter. Voltmeter is off when the kill switch is pushed/pressed down. Kill switch is normally closed (NC) running 10 amp in parallel which would give 20 amp max load.


Ignition key ON


Brake light

 
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