zbuck
New member
That carb. will not work, as it has a counter bore/recess on the intake end. It has a o-ring that seals it to the intake tube on a vertical shaft engine. As for a 6.5 carb. on a 5hp, Fabroman, answered your question.
Briggs, I am a bit confused
- Thread starter CoroTheCat
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That carb. will not work, as it has a counter bore/recess on the intake end. It has a o-ring that seals it to the intake tube on a vertical shaft engine. As for a 6.5 carb. on a 5hp, Fabroman, answered your question.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Oh, I didn't know that.
What exactly does that mean?
and is it something that I can fix?rmm727
New member
Coro,
You should be able to use the carb you listed with this intake.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321170563040?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
You should be able to use the carb you listed with this intake.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321170563040?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
CoroTheCat
Builder
Do you know how it works? And why it should work? I'm probably going to try to make one, because that part is really expensive.
The parts is 30$
I have to pay 33.50$ for shipping
And 10.76$ to import it
That's not very cheap.
rmm727
New member
I agree the part is expensive, just listing an alternative. The carb you listed is basically an Intek carb and later I/C Briggs flatheads used the same carb with the intake I listed.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Zbuck said that the carb wouldn't work because it had a counter bore (not really sure what that means) but how does this intake fix that problem? If I knew I would have a chance at replicating the part and making it work.
rmm727
New member
You'd have to ask him cause I certainly don't know what he's talking about
CoroTheCat
Builder
Okay, thanks for the help. I'll try to send him a message.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Well I have been working on this engine for a while now and it's finally time to put it back together, but...
when I tighten the connecting rod bolts, the crank shaft won't rotate. It seems that the bolts are way to tight, so the connecting rod is stopping the crankshaft from spinning freely. The rod is kind of clamping the shaft.
I did use my torque wrench and the bolts are not to tight, actually the are way to loose. Should I take and sand the crankshaft so it can spin freely or should I sand the connecting rod? Or is there a simpler solution to the problem?
when I tighten the connecting rod bolts, the crank shaft won't rotate. It seems that the bolts are way to tight, so the connecting rod is stopping the crankshaft from spinning freely. The rod is kind of clamping the shaft.
I did use my torque wrench and the bolts are not to tight, actually the are way to loose. Should I take and sand the crankshaft so it can spin freely or should I sand the connecting rod? Or is there a simpler solution to the problem?
zbuck
New member
Sounds to me that you installed the rod cap 180 degs out. Also, did you install the oil slinger correctly? Make sure the orientation mark on the rod on the cap line up. Also As for the counter bore in the carb. It is there to take two O rings, which seals it to the intake tube on vert. engines.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Flipped it 180 degs and it works! The crank spins without any resistance (there is no spark plug in it)
Well about that carb, I think I'm going to use the stock carb, because if I use a different carb, I can't hook up the governor. I'm a bit worried that it will blow if I remove it.
What do you think, should I remove the governor? (I still have the stock springs in it)
zbuck
New member
Flipped it 180 degs and it works! The crank spins without any resistance (there is no spark plug in it)
What do you think, should I remove the governor? (I still have the stock springs in it)
Thats great news on the rod. Leave the gov'r in, the stock sheet metal oil slinger will not last for any period of time over 3600 rpm's and when it decides to come apart you will have a nicely destoryed engine. If you decide to remove the gov'r. The solution is, to remove the sheet metal slinger and either install a nylon/alum oil slinger. Or of course a billet alum rod. The stock springs, will acted like a rev. limiter, due to vlave float and should turn up to 45000/5000 rpm's.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Thanks!
Ok, I'm not going to remove the governor.
I tried finding a rod from a raptor, but the only place that I can buy them from USA, and when I also have to pay for shipping and import its going to be pretty expensive.
Thanks for the help, I may look into getting a new dipper in the future.
zbuck
New member
Thanks!
Ok, I'm not going to remove the governor.
I tried finding a rod from a raptor, but the only place that I can buy them from USA, and when I also have to pay for shipping and import its going to be pretty expensive.
Thanks for the help, I may look into getting a new dipper in the future.
You are Welcome. Glad I could help. The raptor rod # 555207 std w/internal dipper.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Is it possible to buy the rod cap separate? I really want to use a different carb and the linkage doesn't work with it, so if I only had the but the rod cap, I could save some money. Does Briggs and Stratton sell nylon dippers or are they all aftermarket parts?
zbuck
New member
Is it possible to buy the rod cap separate? I really want to use a different carb and the linkage doesn't work with it, so if I only had the but the rod cap, I could save some money. Does Briggs and Stratton sell nylon dippers or are they all aftermarket parts?
No, you have to buy the whole rod. The nylon/alum dippers are aftermarket. Briggs does not offer them.
CoroTheCat
Builder
Ok, thanks
zbuck
New member
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