Briggs, I am a bit confused

[CoroTheCat]

Briggs engine, I am a bit confused

I bought a rotor tiller a week ago, and today I wanted totake a look at it. I only bought it because it had a Briggs 5hp industrial commercial engine. I don't have any other iron bore engines, so I took a magnet and tried to check if the cylinder walls would be magnetic, since they are made of iron. But the wall wasn't magnetic, I don't know if the wall is suppose to be magnetic or not, but since it made of iron it should be magnetic.

It also says on the engine shroud that it has a magnetron but I took and looked behind the flywheel at it looks like it has points and condenser, so I'm just more confused now.

I measured the cylinder and the stroke, and the measurements were the same as the manual for the engine said.

So is this a I/C engine or what?
And does it have a cast iron bore?

The model number on the shroud is:
132232 2136 01

I will just post some pictures below

 

[CoroTheCat]

1. Engine shroud
2. Engine shroud
3. Engine bore
4. The engine on the tiller
5. Model number
6. Tiller Serial number
7. The points and condenser behind the flywheel

 

[KartFab]

Lots of industrial engines have a cast iron sleeve in the bore, with the block being made of cast aluminum.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine

look up the users manual there

 

[OzFab]

Time for a history lesson...

Briggs & Stratton works under the motto of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"; as a result, over the course of many decades, the architecture of their engines changed very little; as a result, the shroud from a 2000 model 5hp engine will easily fit a 1960 model 5hp engine...

Another indicator is the shroud says it's a 1985 model but, to me, the tiller appears older than that (but, I could be wrong)...

The moral of the story: Just because the shroud indicates what you have doesn't mean that's what you have...

 

[CoroTheCat]

Lots of industrial engines have a cast iron sleeve in the bore, with the block being made of cast aluminum.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine

look up the users manual there

Yes but i tried to stick a magnet to a to the inside of the cylinder, where the sleeve should have been, and it was not magnetic.

Time for a history lesson...

Briggs & Stratton works under the motto of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"; as a result, over the course of many decades, the architecture of their engines changed very little; as a result, the shroud from a 2000 model 5hp engine will easily fit a 1960 model 5hp engine...

Another indicator is the shroud says it's a 1985 model but, to me, the tiller appears older than that (but, I could be wrong)...

The moral of the story: Just because the shroud indicates what you have doesn't mean that's what you have...

That's is probably what happened, so I just have a normal 5hp engine.

It looked like the engine actually has ball bearings, is it normal that these Briggs have ball bearings?

 

[CoroTheCat]

I was thinking about replacing the coil with a magnetron, should any Briggs 5hp coil fit on there? The shroud is the wrong one so I don't really know the specific model number.

 

[OzFab]

Don't quote me on this but, since the engine has changed very little over the years, you would think a later model coil will fit

 

[mckutzy]

A few questions...
Regardless of ignition type, does it start/turn over? Are you replacing the coil because it doesn't start?

If the bore looks good, does it matter about being lined or not?
It kinda looks like it has just the regular Cdi ignition(like on a clone).

 

[OzFab]

I took and looked behind the flywheel at it looks like it has points and condenser

From post #1

 

[Zombient]

From post #1

Me personally, if I can get the points to work, I'll run with the points. I go though 5hp coils like oxygen, especially the magneto ones. So I try to make what's on it work.

That's just my 2 cents.

 

[CoroTheCat]

Don't quote me on this but, since the engine has changed very little over the years, you would think a later model coil will fit

Well if it dosen´t fit, i will just save if for another project.

A few questions...
Regardless of ignition type, does it start/turn over? Are you replacing the coil because it doesn't start?

If the bore looks good, does it matter about being lined or not?
It kinda looks like it has just the regular Cdi ignition(like on a clone).

i haven´t tried to start it yet, i just wanted to replace it because it it a bit rusted. I think it still works, i could just try and clean it and save the money for something else.

The bore actually looks really good, there are some minor scratches, but they shouldn´t be a problem. I only wanted a cast iron bore engine because it will last longer, and there is a smaller chance of them having scratches.

Me personally, if I can get the points to work, I'll run with the points. I go though 5hp coils like oxygen, especially the magneto ones. So I try to make what's on it work.

That's just my 2 cents.

I could just go the points and condenser instead of the magnetron. I am still thinking about buying the magnetron to try it on there. Just to see if i can feel any difference and then i can decide if i am going to use the points or the magnetron.

 

[CoroTheCat]

Does anyone have an idea of what model this engine is?
i only have the model number from the shroud and since the shroud is not the right one i can't find the right manual. The I/C engine where the shroud belongs and the engine i have seem to be very similar but they aren't the same. They have the same bore size and stroke. Anyone have an idea?

And im looking for a new carb, anyone got a suggestion?
would something like this work? (i´m a noob when it comes to carb replacement)
http://goo.gl/cRSfDd
or
http://goo.gl/b0Jo2n

 

[zbuck]

1. Engine shroud
2. Engine shroud
3. Engine bore
4. The engine on the tiller
5. Model number
6. Tiller Serial number
7. The points and condenser behind the flywheel

That engine has been short block, therefore the different SN. Different shroud, as 13223-2136-01 IPL shows a oil shutdown with light or a cover to block the shut down hole. the IPL also shows magtron, therefore no points.
Is the coil/mag a 2 leg or a 3 leg. The carb shown to replace the B&S carb, is a Tecky carb., therefore you will need a different manifold and a fuel system.

 

[CoroTheCat]

That engine has been short block, therefore the different SN. Different shroud, as 13223-2136-01 IPL shows a oil shutdown with light or a cover to block the shut down hole. the IPL also shows magtron, therefore no points.
Is the coil/mag a 2 leg or a 3 leg. The carb shown to replace the B&S carb, is a Tecky carb., therefore you will need a different manifold and a fuel system.

wut...
welll i dont really understand the first parts
and about the carb, i can just make a manifold that will fit.

 

[zbuck]

wut...
welll i dont really understand the first parts
and about the carb, i can just make a manifold that will fit.

The sticker with K-310011, desinates it has a short block. As the Tecumseh carb with not bolt directly to the B&S block. You will, either have to make a intake manifold or buy one. There are several post on here, were people had made some pretty neat intake manifolds for this purpose. Use the search to find them. For a fuel system, you will have to use a remote tank and either gravity/fuel pump to feed the carb.

 

[CoroTheCat]

The sticker with K-310011, desinates it has a short block. As the Tecumseh carb with not bolt directly to the B&S block. You will, either have to make a intake manifold or buy one. There are several post on here, were people had made some pretty neat intake manifolds for this purpose. Use the search to find them. For a fuel system, you will have to use a remote tank and either gravity/fuel pump to feed the carb.

Thanks, i am going to make a manifold that will fit. I was just wondering if a carb for a 6hp would work since its made for a bigger engine.

I think I'm going to have a gravity feed carburetor, it seems the easiest way to do it.

 

[zbuck]

Thanks, i am going to make a manifold that will fit. I was just wondering if a carb for a 6hp would work since its made for a bigger engine.

I think I'm going to have a gravity feed carburetor, it seems the easiest way to do it.

You are Welcome. Which carb are you plan on using, B&S/Tecky? Yes gravity feed wwill be the easiest.

 

[CoroTheCat]

You are Welcome. Which carb are you plan on using, B&S/Tecky? Yes gravity feed wwill be the easiest.

Well i think I'm going to use something similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Br...&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+5+hp+carburetor

I was just wondering if there would be any benefits by putting a carb from a 6.5 engine on my 5 horse.

 

[OzFab]

Have you seen this thread?

The only way it we be of any benifit is if you perform other mods to keep up with the extra fuel, otherwise, you only end up with a rich running engine...

 

[CoroTheCat]

Have you seen this thread?

The only way it we be of any benifit is if you perform other mods to keep up with the extra fuel, otherwise, you only end up with a rich running engine...

Thanks. I was planning on modding the engine a bit, but its not very easy to get parts where I live. I could buy them of the internet but if they have to be sent from another country, then I have to pay a lot to get them imported. So the item will normally triple in price. And that is not something I can really afford.