dengieboys drift

[dengieboy]

So today saw a bit of valve grinding but on closer inspection the exhaust valve was a bit to far gone luckily though i have managed to buy another set so while these parts wing there way to me in the post i got busy with the inlet port. After an hour careful grinding with the demmel it was looking as good as the exhaust port. The inlet valve was then put on my lathe for some profiling and some polishing then was taken back to the block for lapping in this was done with a little fine paste then was finished with a bit of...........BLING



oh yes finished with diamonds i was given this tube years ago by an old friend and has to be ten times finer than the fine valve paste so the result to this is a perfectly lapped valve!



"Everyone needs a Ric"

 

[teacherman99]

Congrats Dengieboy, looks pretty awesome. I just started building a drift trike for my grandkids, 6 and 8. I'm using a weedeater motor. Just got the pillowblock bearings on Saturday. After I finish theirs, I'll begin making one for me. I purchased a 6.5 hp motor already and got it running. Keep those pics coming.

 

[dengieboy]

The bottom end!

After we had stripped the second engine right down we had our first look at all the internals. We discovered that we had what looks like a cast iron crank and a aluminum(not aloominum as some might say lol) con rod and piston. The finish on the crank was not all that so we are under way with polishing it (our thinking is that it should help with the oil running over it plus it looks good!) this once finished will be sent off to be balanced

Crank before


Crank after a little work


Few pics of the finished ports




don't think just weld

 

[dengieboy]

Congrats Dengieboy, looks pretty awesome. I just started building a drift trike for my grandkids, 6 and 8. I'm using a weedeater motor. Just got the pillowblock bearings on Saturday. After I finish theirs, I'll begin making one for me. I purchased a 6.5 hp motor already and got it running. Keep those pics coming.

bet the grankids are gonna love it hmmm and a 6.5 hp engine should be plenty of power start a thread up i would love to watch how it all comes together. lol i am just making it up as i go as i go along and solving the problems as they pop up!

 

[dengieboy]

Exhaust and fuel

thoughts have now drifted to exhaust and fuel. The exhaust can only really go one way but it will be close to the carburetor so some exhaust wrap will be needed to keep the heat away. I had all ready made the exhaust manifold out of a 4mm stainless plate and now that has been matched to the port so no 'steps' for the gas to hit. After ten mins online i found a company that sells stainless pipe with bends and a 90* was purchased for £8.00 this has still not turned up in the post!. I had mentioned that i had bought some stainless steel 'P' clips i think the five only cost £3.20 bargain! these turned up so i could now route my fuel line!




so a bit more bling on the engine plus it keeps the fuel line and HT lead in one place

 

[dengieboy]

chain 'N' sprockets

The trike has sat for a while in the workshop funds had to be spent on Christmas so not much has happened. But now crimbo is over with i cracked on with sorting the drive!. As were going to use a tony cart rear sprocket we had to put a cart small sprocket on to our clutch drum. So again Ebay came to the rescue and after a few clicks we had a chain in the post £7.95p and a small universal fit cart small sprocket for £7.50. these turned up in the post a few days ago but straight away i could see a problem. We are using a lawn mower clutch the shaft which comes out of the clutch drum is a round threaded shaft with two flats on it (which locked the sprocket on then the nut) the new sprocket fitted a taper shaft.....Doh
So before we did anything the kettle was put on the log burner and we had a brew and a think on what to do. After looking at it for a while i came up with a plan.....
Put it in the lathe bore the hole out a little so it goes on the mower shaft then drill a hole for a grub screw so it tightens down onto the 'Flat' on the output shaft easy me thinks. So i mounted it in the three jaw chuck put my boring tool in the tool post and went to machine the center out. The result was just a lot of noise!!!! then i realize whats wrong the sprocket is going to be hardened!!!! Double Doh!
So if anyone has to face this problem there is an easy way round it you have to make it soft!...............so the log burner was filled to the top with logs and was good and hot the sprocket chucked in the top after a few hours of more logs it was left to cool down slowly overnight. Result the next morning when i took it out of the ashes was a nice soft sprocket ready for machining. this then took ten minutes to bore out on the lathe. Once i have drilled it and tapped it for the grub screw i will re harden it by heating till red then quenching in old engine oil. once done i will get some pictures up of the finished job. The job list is getting smaller only a few bits left to do then we can play sorry i mean test it!!

Jobs left to do
1) exhaust to be welded
2) chain tension device
3) chain guard
4) electronic ignition to be bought and fitted (£70!)
5) get a long throttle cable made
6) paint the beast

oh we are so nearly there gonna be drifting by the summer!!

don't think just weld

 

[dengieboy]

Time to be exhausted!!!!

So with the lack of a M4 tapping drill i have had to put the drive sprocket to one side till i can get to the shops to buy a drill!. So i thought i would get on with the exhaust pipe. A few months ago i had all ready made a nice 4mm thick stainless manifold and had in the last few weeks had bought a pre bent 90' bend out of 25mm dia stainless tube this was a start.
The B.S.A engine was mocked up on its mount and the carb put on along with the stainless manifold. At this point we stopped for a brew and had a think on how much to chop the 90' bend. This was then cut and shaped till we was happy with it its going to end up a little near the carb so the header pipe will be wrapped with exhaust wrapping to avoid heating the carb. At this point we had to stop as were waiting for some stainless arc rods to turn up in the post so we can tack the header pipe to the manifold in the right place then we can unbolt and take it to the T.I.G welder. the exhaust should end up looking monge as we say in Essex as soon as we have got some bits together i will get some pictures taken

 

[dengieboy]

Another project in mind!!!!

This week saw a new purchase for only £50 an 1950's Solorex chainsaw with a German 125cc two stroke engine its a beast!! the engine runs like a clock starts first pull every time. its not much use as a saw because you cannot buy the right chain for it anymore but i was thinking its an engine and drive and clutch all in one unit has anyone out there used a chainsaw engine to power a project if they have i would love to know. the engine has loads of power and my god can it rev!!!! more tea me thinks!!

 

[dengieboy]

Odd's N Sod's

A bit more work was done on the exhaust today. I had bought a small length of 50mm dia stainless tube to make the outside of my silencer, we had given it much thought and many cups of tea!. While the exhaust has to be free flowing it has to be quiet to a degree after all we are the ones that are going to be closest to it!. So we are going to put a baffle tube in with some wadding this is going to take a bit more fabrication and a little more time under the T.I.G welder but we like welding stainless
Today i had a look at the chain as my 'Tonykart' axle key had come in the post (£7.50) this is a flat key which stops the sprocket carrier spinning on the axle. I had got a new chain from ebay i was not sure how long it needed to be so i bought the longest they had which was a 107 links i figured that i could all ways remove a few links. After another quick mock up and a look i did have to remove 3 links as the chain did not have a removable link i had to do some fine grinding then once shortened the two pins which had been ground were then zapped with the T.I.G to hold it together it fits a treat

A pic of a few of the exhaust bits



One of the shortened chain mocked up


So now i have a chain in place i can now build the spring loaded tension shoe for the chain then with no welding left on the fame we can get to with the paint prep and get the frame top coated i keep on telling myself it's not going to be long till were having fun getting it all side ways

 

[justinlogue5_0]

Really coming along nice! Good job!

 

[dengieboy]

'Tension tension it's all gettinng to me!'

After the success of getting the chain on the hunt was on for the parts to make a tension device. After a rummage i found a nice chunk of white nylon which i will machine the shoe from, a m8 bolt and in the first box i looked in gave up a nice spring add to this a small length of flat bar and i have got all the bits so first thing tomorrow i can do the last of the welding then i can tare it down for paint prep




"everyone needs a Ric"
"don't think just weld"

 

[dengieboy]

Only three more laps to go keep your foot in

Now i know where the bar needs to be welded for the chain tension shoe i got the old Oxford oil cooled arc set out as this needs to be strong. the small length of flat bar was cleaned and de-burred and marked with some engineers blue a center line was then marked then a quick center punch and a hole drilled the bar was ready to be welded to the frame this then took a few minuets to weld yay the frame is done
Now i have said the frame is 'done' i know only time will tell having never built anything like this before we could go and break it first time out. So i'm dam sure this will not be the last time this frame see's the welder!!. so now the job was on to strip things down and put everything in boxes but before the engine was removed i have marked the frame for drilling so i can hide the throttle cable inside the frame from some of it's journey now i have got to get the grinder out and the two pack car filler and get busy on making the frame look nice for the first coats of etch and primer im going to have a dusty workshop for a while rubbing it all down. i shall get some pictures up tomorrow

'spanners have feeling's to you know'

 

[dengieboy]

Looks like it's snowed?

So as promised pictures of the last bit of welding. I found the best rod warmer as you will see in the pictures a hot rod strikes better!

The last of the welding!


my rod warmer


my arc set


Once i had got the welding put to bed the two pack filler came out and the frame prep has started and yes it looks like it's snowed!





don't think just weld

 

[dengieboy]

Frame Prep

Its been a weekend of fill then sand but as i got on with it i stood back and thought to myself that this is looking good. The one rule that we have kept to is that its got to look good not just a few bits of box section welded together. its beginning to look a lot more fluid. The main area has been the headstock of the frame after we had cut out the top tube of the bike frame this had left a hole which we had then capped with a bit of 3mm plate this did not look right at all but its looking better now!!.
It has been looked at from all angles all the welds that could be see are now all nice and blended this has taken quite a few hours once i am happy with it i will hang it up and get some acid etch on it then some primmer but i think i got a couple more hours sanding and filling air bubble holes in the filler are needed before we go to paint



Headstock coming on




A couple of views of the frame





Don't think just weld

 

[dengieboy]

Paint and sand repeat till Monge

I must admit i thought the frame painting process was going to be quick how wrong was i. ? It has taken me every minuet of my spare time for a good two weeks and its still not finished it has had so far.....................

Two coats of Acid etch lightly sanded between coats with 1500 grit

The filling was done

One more coat of etch

Then four coats of primer again sanded with 1500 grit in between

Three coats of topcoat wet sanded with 1500 grit in between

Two coats of clear coat (let to harden for 2 days) this was then wet flatted with 1500 grit

One more coat of clear then went on

This is were i am at i still might but one more coat of clear on then it will be mopped for final finish

Few pictures of the topcoat going on






Everyone needs a Ric

 

[dengieboy]

clear coat on

These are the pictures of the frame with some clear on the top coat







To say i am happy with the finish is the understatement of the year Monge

Don't think just weld

 

[Poboy kartman]

I can fully appreciate the amount of effort you've put onto prepping that frame and the results.....

Until you've been there and done that....it's rare to find someone that can appreciate the difference between slap some paint on it and call it good....or put on the hours of prepp and attention to detail that it takes to get a flawless....showcase finish....

Good job....and kudos for putting forth the effort....sometimes people get their feelings hurt a little when they don't get the "Attaboy back slap" for spending 20 mins. prepping and slap on some rattle can paint.....

But it's why I am a little bit critical of those builds....I don't believe that the guy that takes a rental car to the track deserves the same level of respect as the guy that spends $50,000 building a ground up sub 10 second car.....

Looking good....

 

[dengieboy]

frame painting

Cheers Poboy that means a lot it has been bloody hard work i feel like i have rubbed the ends off me fingers!. I have seen a lot of painting done and have done bits in the past like you say to get that finish you have to put in the hours. Good tips are to use good quality products i must admit i am very luck to have an auto paint products shop 400 yards up the road. All ways lightly cut back each coat with fine wet and dry either 1500 or 2000 grit used wet its all about building up the layers letting each to harden before doing the next.
I am waiting for the next sunny day(though i might have to wait a while!) to get some pictures out side the paint i have picked is a vintage Porsche colour that is all i am going to give away its a very dark brown which turns sparkly gold in the sun!


Can i buy a power band for my engine?

 

[dengieboy]

Wheel problem solved

At last the last problem has been solved i found the secret to getting wheels and sleeves to fit. All along i thought you needed cart rear wheels then you look for a sleeve to fit ahhh i was wrong!!. After a little time on the internet i found on Facebook Drift Trikes UK and after a few messages i found out what i was doing wrong my rear hubs were the wrong size. I did not know cart rear hubs come in two sizes in width 200mm and 180mm my hubs measured 200mm these are wrong so the set of tonykart wheels i have will have to be sold on ebay. The trick is you need two 180mm wide rear rims then you stretch some front tyres on to them then you can buy sleeves to fit very easy!. Or you do what i have just done Drift Trikes UK sell lots of trike bits so for £100 i have bought two three spoke rims with stretched tyres and sleeves all fitted up and polished these should be here by Tuesday so the last things i need to buy are the electronic ignition system for the engine which is £70 and a extra long throttle cable for £30 then after a little more work we should be getting some were near to having it side ways!!!!!

Everyone needs a Ric

 

[dengieboy]

Few more bits n bobs

well still no post!! me new wheels should be here tomorrow fingers crossed But we do have some good news and some new bits Yay!. The bars that came with the Huffy frame had been dropped at some time and were a little bent that much that it noticed. So the search was on and believe me when i say i have looked at quite a few!. The problem is rule number 1 all along we have said its gotta look 'Monge' as we say in Essex and every set of handle bars i looked at just did not cut the mustard. Then on ebay there they were just what i was looking for
There on the bay were a set of bars from a small Italian mo-ped i won then for the grand price of £20.00 with £5.00 postage when they turned up the chrome on then was not in bad condition and after a half hour on my buffing wheel cleaned up great and my B.S.A twist grip fits the bars a treat. The front brake is next the levers that came with the bike were ok but needed work as when i looked at them closely they were as rough as a baggers Arse so out with the wet and dry there coming on but are needing a few more hours spent on them

The new bars




Front brake lever before and after a couple of hours work




don't think just weld