Cart not running - could use help.

[firemanjim]

Jim....there are 2 green wires attached to the magneto....both grounds....one iss routed to the kill switch located in the shroud. ..which has a black wire....which carries voltage from the magneto to one side of that switch....so when you flip the switch...it grounds out the magneto/coil.....the other green wire is connected to the circuit and goes to a plastic isolation block on the outside of the shroud. ....to hook up an external kill switch. ...

Make sense and help refresh the memory.....?????

EDIT:....and no....there's no minimum throttle kill... (electrically).....that's why there is a switch in the shroud. ...you may be thinking of a Briggs......

that's it!!

 

[4rcFed]

Well, finally got around to pulling the carb. The carb looked very clean. I still took it down and cleaned everything up.

Then I pulled the shroud. Here are a few pics....Is the wire from the coil supposed to go anywhere? This cart has a flip kill switch on the steering wheel. That is the wire connected to the coil.

 

[OzFab]

See the little red switch on the starter shroud? The wire from the coil should be connected to it, with a second wire going to ground. You can replace that wire to go to the switch on the steering wheel or split it & have both switches...

 

[4rcFed]

So the loose wire from the coil should go the "-" side of the switch? And then add a wire from the "O" side of the switch to ground?

 

[OzFab]

Correct... I think...

Worst case scenario, if it doesn't work that way, the engine won't start, which means the wires are backwards...

 

[firemanjim]

So the loose wire from the coil should go the "-" side of the switch? And then add a wire from the "O" side of the switch to ground?

No, that loose wire is the ground for the switch. The "hot" wire was the other black one going to the front now. Just add a piece of wire from the switch, and tie it in with the long black wire. That will ground out the coil when touched to metal, not the short one. It's already touching metal, .... The screw.......

 

[4rcFed]

No, that loose wire is the ground for the switch. The "hot" wire was the other black one going to the front now. Just add a piece of wire from the switch, and tie it in with the long black wire. That will ground out the coil when touched to metal, not the short one. It's already touching metal, .... The screw.......

Got back to it tonight. Ran the wires like you mentioned. Also waited for dusk tonight and checked for spark. Spark was ok.

Finally kept hitting the primer button on the carb and got it to fire up. At first, it kept stalling out. So after a pull I would have to hit the primer button to keep it running, and then keep hitting it every few seconds. Finally it stayed running on its own. But hitting the gas pedal, it bogs until you go full throttle.

So either it needs a carb, or just run some more. I will try to run it more tomorrow, but anyone ever come across a bogging/dead spot issue?

And I'm not even sure what this model of kart is to get a carb!

 

[OzFab]

I haven't worked on many Tecumseh engines but, the ones I have worked on didn't like to run without the air filter assembly attached... just a thought...

 

[4rcFed]

Ahhh....ok, good thought. I did fire it up last night without the air filter cover on. So tonight will be a test run, and I'll put that on as well.

Thanks!


till then......

 

[firemanjim]

The Tecumseh carbs are finicky.....
EDIT clean the carb.....

 

[OzFab]

good engines, crap carbs...

 

[Poboy kartman]

Well...most likely needs a good carb clean....but try this. ...since you have it running. ....take the linkage....and run it wide open. ....short circuting the govenor for a second. ....then put your hand over the end of the carb until it almost dies.....and release and repeat......

It should run better and better. ....if not. ...there's no way around it....time for a carb clean..........

EDIT: BTW:.....A quarter cup of mineral spirits or denatured alcohol in the tank with the gas during this process will also help.....I have gotten many an engine go from no go to purring this way....

 

[4rcFed]

Gave it a pull or two tonight and it fired up. So I took it for a few spins around the yard. It seemed 'ok'. Not sure how good these can be, but it could hve been a little more responsive, but seemed to do alright. Might get better with more run time too.


But what I noticed the most is if I did a hard stop. I would have to feather the throttle a lot and carefully, otherwise it would bang real hard to get going. Any adjust for that?

 

[4rcFed]

After supper, went out to give it some more run time, but it did not want to start.....ugh....

Since it was warm, I didn't hit the primer button on the carb. But no luck, so I hit it. Then a couple times, just to try something. But all in all, the pug never fouled. Plenty of gas is coming out of the front of the carb. It almost seems like the gas isn't getting too the plug.

Wonder if it is worth a try to do a carb swap? Not sure where to get parts though to price one out.

 

[OzFab]

See FMJs last post...

 

[4rcFed]

I originally pulled the carb to get a feel for what the condition of it was. I was surprised how clean it was inside. Everything looked great. I still cleaned it with some cleaner and blew air through it.

I could probably leave it overnight in a part cleaner tank if you think that might help. But it did look very clean inside.

 

[firemanjim]

Looks can be deceiving,my friend. Are all the tiny holes clear? Are the passages inside the carb clear? I have a know to work tec carb right here. I'm willing to bet if we were to swap mine for yours, your engine would run just fine. For I were you, I'd run down to the grocery store real quick like and buy a bag of lemons or a big bottle of lemon juice concentrate, (i prefer the latter). Grab that wrench and take this ratchet and pull the carb off. Now, take the whole thing apart. Put the carb, and all the metal pieces in a bowl, but not THAT one, or your wife will get mad.... Ok, let's move all this over by that window, and set it on the table that no one messes with. Now pour in enough lemon juice to cover everything. We put it over here by the window cause its gonna stink later.Ok, well, now all we gotta do is hand clean the float, I prefer to do it by hand, not liking the idea of my plastic float soaking in acid,mild as it is..... Well, you get to work on that, and im gonna grab something to eat. ........

 

[4rcFed]

Well, can't say that I've never tried the lemon juice method yet.

Any particular notes? Straight juice?....cover the carb?...add heat?...duration of dunk??

All about trying new stuff. Used to just use the dunk pail of carb cleaner to give them a good once over. But that stuff is indeed nasty.

 

[firemanjim]

I take em apart at night, after work, then put it all in a tupperware bowl and fill it up,covering every bit. Then I'll let it sit till lunch time the next day. If I'm up late that night, I will kind of slosh the carb body around a little. Just to make sure that the juice is in all the holes and to get the crud moving around....
It works better than sitting in a parts cleaner. Lemon juice is a mild acid. Enough to clean and dissolved the crap in your carb, but not damage anything.

 

[OzFab]

I thought the idea was to boil the carb in lemon juice