Comet vs Chinese Torque Converters

[Johnnyboy]

Hey guys,
Thanks to all of the great help on this forum, I've finally managed to get my go kart up and running. However, after investigating a small idling issue I have found that my Comet 30 series drive clutch will soon need replacing. With knock-off TCs starting to gain some popularity, I just thought I'd pose a question to you guys: Are Chinese-made torque converters a sorry attempt to appeal to the budget-minded consumer, or can they actually hold their own against Comets?

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

 

[firemanjim]

This is kind of a loaded question. I think for the most part, the Chinese knock off isn't that bad of a copy. I hear it works well, and no real issues with longevity. BUT, I hear it doesn't hold up to the "10hp" they claim. A comet is rated for up to 8 or 9, but I'm willing to bet that comet put a substantial safety margin in that hp rating......
This is all hear-say....... I don't own a knock off but have owned a 30series and 40 series comet. Rock solid monsters, when we'll maintained......

 

[landuse]

Hey guys,
Thanks to all of the great help on this forum, I've finally managed to get my go kart up and running. However, after investigating a small idling issue I have found that my Comet 30 series drive clutch will soon need replacing. With knock-off TCs starting to gain some popularity, I just thought I'd pose a question to you guys: Are Chinese-made torque converters a sorry attempt to appeal to the budget-minded consumer, or can they actually hold their own against Comets?

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

We have heard nothing bad about the chinese knock offs, so I would not worry that they are going to self destruct on you. As Jim has said though, do NOT think they are going to hold up with 10HP. That is just sales talk

 

[jslider]

I have a china knock off on the daughters kart and it works well we only have maybe 1 to 2 hrs on it but have had no issues

 

[redsox985]

What's the reason for needing to replace the Comet? I feel like those are parts that should almost never end up in the scrap bin.

 

[Half-breeder]

Are Chinese-made torque converters a sorry attempt to appeal to the budget-minded consumer, or can they actually hold their own against Comets?

I personally own/run a Chinese TAV2 (Comet 30). As far as comparison... I have none, due to the fact that I dont have the funds for a genuine Comet(yet). I run a modded GX200 (boasting 10-11hp) and the knockoff seems to hold its own, however I can see the possibilities of wear n tear upon any 'nonsense' driving, w/ the HP im pushin.

The physical differences is, the knockoff has a 3/8" key(at the driver), where the Comet has a 1/4". The knockoff will have a distinct clanking noise vs. the Comet being practically silent. From what I can tell the finish on the Comet is smoother and refined, where as the knockoff looks less 'cleaned up'. Performance wise, Id more than guarantee the Comet will out do the knockoff, due to the smooth lines and sturdier metal used... NOT sayin the knockoff is inferior, but its alil bit like comparing a car company to another car company that makes almost the identical vehicles(Honda/Acura, Chevy/Isuzu, Ford/Mazda, Toyota/Lexus, etc...). Its not that one is 'better' at making the same car... it's just one is/has a better reliability record vs. 'a few flaws'.

...oh and the price tag... lol

So no, I wouldnt say a knockoff is a 'sorry' excuse for a Comet, by no means... just dont expect 'more' than the 'recommended' allotment of gearing and hp and things should be good!

 

[Half-breeder]

What's the reason for needing to replace the Comet? I feel like those are parts that should almost never end up in the scrap bin.

Id have to say probably (other than the belt/springs), most all parts 'do' last the length of the owners interest in the kart/motor. however, 'poop' happens... Lets just say hypothetically on a TAV2...

A bearing ruptures on the JS, causing the driven to go cockeyed. The chain binds/breaks and slings into the driver unit causing major dimples and gouges/burrs. As the chain continues around, due to inertia/momentum, it becomes wrapped in the driven unit, now that the belt is nolonger blocking it from entering the asymmetrical pulley, because its slipped track, causing the same dents/burrs as on the driver. Due the irregular weight momentarily added then subtracted from the rpms of the driver, the chain catches an edge of the outer clamshell and warps the cover a shmigen(lilbit), enough that the driver now vibrates the motor as it turns, which loosens the end bolt causing the entire driver to fly off into it's individual pieces, flying head long into a brick wall.

So in 'this' example a JS, bearings, entire driver unit, chain, possibly the JS gear, probably the pulley faces of the driven(if the burrs/gouges are too bad)... yea, poop happens.

But in a more realistic path of thought... Id have to say 'rust'/neglect is probably the 2 killers of Comet TC's (aswell as any TC).

 

[Johnnyboy]

What's the reason for needing to replace the Comet? I feel like those are parts that should almost never end up in the scrap bin.

My go kart wasn't idling properly. I would take my foot off the pedal and it would continue to move on the engine's power. Knowing that it wasn't a problem with my engine, I took off the clutch and saw some significant wear. Two of the weight system's nickel-plated hooves were strangely elevated in two areas, and I suspect that I had a pair of weak springs considering the nature of my problem. There was also a lot of grime on the sheaves from the drive belt (the type that you would have to grind off.) Considering what I would have to do just to get it back up and running for a while longer, I thought I'd just bight the bullet and buy a new clutch. I did buy the kart used though, and it certainly experienced some heavy use. Hopefully the new one will be the end of all my problems!
Johnny

 

[Want1make1]

I plan of buying a 13hp lifan for a project (fat tire bike) and well I don't have all the money in the world. So I was wondering if I was was to get one of the nock off torque converters what parts should I expect to bend, wear out, or break. Now I get the idea it will not last as long as a comet. I just need to know if major parts will fail or run into major problems.

 

[rmm727]

The physical differences is, the knockoff has a 3/8" key(at the driver), where the Comet has a 1/4".

Something isn't right here. Keyway size should be based on crank size so a 3/4" crank would need a driver with a 3/16" key and a 1" crank would need a driver with a 1/4" key

 

[Half-breeder]

Something isn't right here. Keyway size should be based on crank size so a 3/4" crank would need a driver with a 3/16" key and a 1" crank would need a driver with a 1/4" key

...is that a question or factual statement? ... and where did 3/16" come from?!

My Gx200 and HF212 both 3/4" shaft, have a 1/4" keyway... the China knockoff TC's come equiped w/ a builtin/fused 3/8" key(integrated into the ID of the items that mount to the engine shaft. Not sure bout the 1" shafts... but I assume they also have a 1/4" keyway... but not sure if the integrated keys are 3/8" or 1/4" on China knockoff TC's for the 1" shaft.

 

[rmm727]

3/4" shafts have a 3/16" keyway not 1/4"

1" shafts have 1/4"

what you're saying is 3/8" is not 3/8"....its 3/16" Go measure your key slot again. The chinese drivers and the Comet drivers are interchangeable(3/4" driver for 3/4" driver and 1" driver for 1" driver) so they have to have the same keyways in them. No way around it.

212 Predator manual states 3/16" crank keyway.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69730.pdf

 

[Half-breeder]

3/4" shafts have a 3/16" keyway not 1/4"

1" shafts have 1/4"

what you're saying is 3/8" is not 3/8"....its 3/16" Go measure your key slot again. The chinese drivers and the Comet drivers are interchangeable(3/4" driver for 3/4" driver and 1" driver for 1" driver) so they have to have the same keyways in them. No way around it.

212 Predator manual states 3/16" crank keyway.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69730.pdf

ok... its 3/16" not 3/8".

 

[Louie The Lot Lizard]

Our racing club has been using the knockoffs all along. They need a lot of maintenance, cleaning, dry lube etc. after each race. Driver springs don't last long, but we are asking a lot more of these things than even the Comet unit was designed for. Belts last about as long as ARC rods (6 races).