Hey Everybody! New member here :)

[hellfire01]

Hello all!

This looks like a great place to learn about karts and the ins and outs of how they are built and set up. Ive had one before but I didnt have much luck with it and I traded it away. But yesterday I picked up a frame / chassis at auction so I could tinker with building another one. Its older I think, I can make out a few of the worn out stickers. It's a "Brister's Thunderkart" by Karts International - serial number 88. I haven't been able to find much about it, and I don't really understand a great deal about them yet. It has a torque convertor and jack shaft setup with a pretty large sprocket on the drive shaft- about 9.5" in diameter. It didn't come with a motor though. I'll attach a few pics so you guys can see what I got

Any links for learning about my specific setup would be great, or maybe the history of what I assume is not a discontinued item. Also, any suggestions on selecting a motor setup (i.e. a motorcycle motor vs snowmachine vs honda sideshaft)

-Joe

 

[Poboy kartman]

Welcome to the forum and thanks for filling out your profile and giving us so much information and pictures. You'll find plenty of help here. I'm thinking that those karts are obsolete - but that doesn't mean anything- there's only a few items that are hard to find and there's always a way around it.

Anything you need to find or know- just ask, it's what we're here for.

 

[hellfire01]

Found a couple links that help show how the torque converter works. Looks like I have a comet 20.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVVFd-lIfGU (torque converter setup)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvfkpWxxHuA (torque converter ID)

 

[OzFab]

Welcome to the forum

Looks like I have a comet 20.

What makes you think that? It could be a 40 series...

Unfortunately, good ol' blaz (yes, the guy in the vid is a member here) doesn't go into the description of the 40 series which has many of the same characteristics as the 20 series...

On top of that, the engine plate appears to have been drilled for a big block Honda (9-13hp) which would be my suggestion for an engine; a 6.5hp will do the job but will struggle...

 

[Poboy kartman]

On top of that, the engine plate appears to have been drilled for a big block Honda (9-13hp) which would be my suggestion for an engine; a 6.5hp will do the job but will struggle...

I didn't catch that. ...... Looks more like good ol' Texas target practice after a 12 pack r two!........

 

[landuse]

Could also be a 30 series. The 20 that is stamped on the TC has nothing to do with the series number. IIRC it is the angle of the driver face. 20 degrees

 

[itsid]

Could also be a 30 series. The 20 that is stamped on the TC has nothing to do with the series number. IIRC it is the angle of the driver face. 20 degrees

But look at his third picture Paul..
first, it's a symmetric driven unit
and second the driven is mounted inbound;
both rule the series 30 out.



'sid

 

[landuse]

But look at his third picture Paul..
first, it's a symmetric driven unit
and second the driven is mounted inbound;
both rule the series 30 out.



'sid

Sorry, I didn't even look at the pics.

 

[firemanjim]

Sorry, I didn't even look at the pics.

Busted.....

 

[landuse]

Busted.....

And I admit it! My info is still good for anyone who needs it though. Just not THIS OP. LOL

 

[KartFab]

The first kart I ever got was a BTK SuperSport, a 6.5 hp engine is good enough for that kart I would think, but you have some options. If I had that kart i would get:

1)2 rear rims. 4 x 4 bolt pattern, 8 inch

2)18 or 22" tires for the rear. 18" if you want more torque, 22" if you want decent torque and speed (22" is best imo)

3)new front tires, measure the rims, they should be 6" rims so you can get 15X6-6 turf tires. (these are a really good deal, they are used though but mine came in great shape) http://www.bmikarts.com/15-x-600-6-SuperTurf-Tire-Rim-Front-Used_p_2423.html

4) bearings: you need two 1" bearings for the rear, and four 1 3/8"od, 5/8"id bearings for the front rims

5) chain, 420P

6) new engine the 212 cc predator engine is a good choice. 5/16" bolts fit in the mounting holes

7) 20 series drive unit

8) clean off the driven unit of the torque converter sheave with a wire wheel, lube up the torque converter. The driven unit can and should free float on this model for best performance. Teflon spray is pretty good, but you are going to need to take it off the jackshaft and clean the rust off before you can do this.

9) Measure center to center distance and get the right belt, this place has a good guide but dont buy their belts because its a rip off. Cheaper on ebay. http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm

10)make seats out of plywood, vinyl and foam

11) check brake pads, they are universal so you can get new pads if they are worn down.

12) throttle cable should be easy to get.

good luck! its a lot of work but will be fun to drive Here is the kart i finished a few yrs ago
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__EfI0MB1ls

 

[hellfire01]

I think its a 20 series comet because of the angle on both plates of the convertor. When I was at the auction I found what I assumed was the motor- something like a honda 8 or 9ph setup with what looks like was a OLD torque convertor of some sort. It was missing the crank rope and looked well used so when it hit $100 I bailed and let the other guy have the motor. It came with some paddle wheels (looks like 22s), a 20" tire maybe and an 18" tire, plus the two front tires. The kart frame itself is fairly heavy, I figured with the weight of the cart, the larger diameter tires, off and on-road use that I would go with a larger motor, maybe like the duromax 16hp and a comet 40 convertor. It appears to have a 10" sprocket 60 teeth and a smaller 10tooth gear on the jack shaft. Id like to see speed of around 30-40 top end... im not sure about removing the governor on the motor yet as Id be afraid of over-revving the engine. Any faster would be gravy but id probably crap myself or test the limits of the frame vs ground.

So, all this said... larger motor and torque convertor vs smaller motor? I dont have the drive clutch, just the driven (or i might have those terms backwards)

I can make the seats myself or I might just visit a pick n pull and find something that will work. I was also thinking about just putting in one bucket seat, using the rest of the space to hold a battery, and putting an alternator on the drive train to power some lights and a radio or something.

Thoughts?

 

[OzFab]

If that's the case then you don't have a series 20, you have a series 40 driven (yes, your terms are correct ) but, only if it was, in fact, the engine from your kart...

 

[KartFab]

With 22" tires, a 10t jackshaft sprocket, a 60t axle speocket and 40 series torque converter, you wil go 39-40 mph.

 

[landuse]

With 22" tires, a 10t jackshaft sprocket, a 60t axle speocket and 40 series torque converter, you wil go 39-40 mph.

I would want more than a 6:1 ratio with 22" tyres, even though you have a 40 series. I just think torque would be lacking

 

[KartFab]

That's the stock ratio two manco karts that I have had came with. That provides plenty of torque (they came with 8 hp and 11 hp engines). A 16 hp engine will definitely compensate. Remember the karti finally finished? It has a 13 hp engine 6:1 ratio with 18" tires, goes 33 mph and does wheelies if you floor it. I guess it comes down to personal preference, but I think 6:1 is a good balance of torque/speed with those tires and bigger engine.

 

[landuse]

That's the stock ratio two manco karts that I have had came with. That provides plenty of torque (they came with 8 hp and 11 hp engines). A 16 hp engine will definitely compensate. Remember the karti finally finished? It has a 13 hp engine 6:1 ratio with 18" tires, goes 33 mph and does wheelies if you floor it. I guess it comes down to personal preference, but I think 6:1 is a good balance of torque/speed with those tires and bigger engine.

I haven't had experience with these karts and tyre sizes, but If you say it is good, I believe you

 

[hellfire01]

Apparently a 20 series driven should be 6 or 7" measured on the back, and a 40 series should be 7.5". Also, my driven has a red spring in it, which if its been unmodified, would also indicate a 40 series driven. Also, it only has 3 rubber tabs, not 6. I might get lucky

If it ever stops raining here (gotta love the puget sound area of WA state) then I can remove the driven and clean it / measure it.