michael phelps
New member
would this work on a 13 hp predator engine from harbor freight it says its rated up to 13 hp but ive heard it would burn up belts
Comet tav2 torq-a-verter kit
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It will NOT work. They are only really rated for 8HP, but there are many shady websites out there advertising that they are good for more. A GENUINE Comet TC is rated for 8HP, and you could probably get away with a 9HP engine using it, but that is a genuine TC. If you use it on anything larger, you are definately going to burn belts faster than you can say "how much does that belt cost".
Sometimes if you gear REAL low, you can get away with a slightly bigger engine, but not a 13HP. For that you are going to need the more robust Comet 40 series or equivalent
michael phelps
New member
would a clutch be better lol the 40 series is like 400 dollars thats more than the motor
It depends what you want to use the kart for. Are you offroading, riding on tar and carparks. A centrifugal clutch for a 13HP would cost you over $100 as well, due to the shaft being a 1" shaft. You would have to gear real low as well.
michael phelps
New member
I will be off roading like the desert.
Then you are going to need a etc. A cent clutch is not going to cut it
michael phelps
New member
Are there any you recomend or everything i will need. Like should i use a jack shaft or pillow blocks and what belt and what t/c
KartFab
Active member
You will need:
40 series driven and drive unit (can get on ebay for $180 knock off or for $300+ genuine comet)
jackshaft assembly.... anyone help? (good luck finding one, I had to make mine, or modify an existing one from another kart as the block/bolt pattern is larger) The jackshaft assembly is basically an additional motor mount (see picture) that mounts to the frame on the bottom part, and the motor on the top part. It also provides the "center to center" distance that you need to know before you buy a belt.
The belt you will need to get once you find out what the center to center distance (distance between jackshaft and motor shaft) AND the driven unit diameter (typically 7 1/2") http://www.gokartsupply.com/beltchart.htm
The jack shaft assembly also needs:
two bearings, which are usually 1 3/8 OD, 5/8" ID flanged high speed sealed.
5/8" OD solid rod, threaded on both ends with 3/16th inch keyway.
5/8" Id sprocket, w 3/16th inch keyway. Sprocket will typically be 9 tooth for most applications 40/41 pitch (you will also need to check your axle sprocket size to make sure its not #35 pitch or you could be in trouble with such a large engine)
3/16th" key for jackshaft sprocket and driven unit to be fixed to the 5/8" rod.
two 5/8 NPT nylock hex nuts to fit on each end of the jackshaft and tighten it all together.
It is also good to get a 5/8" ID PIPE (not tube) and cut it to fit over the jackshaft between the two bearings in the jackshaft assembly. This will prevent uneven wear/bearing failure when you tighten the whole thing up with the two nylock 5/8" nuts.
You may need to find someone to fabricate the jackshaft assembly for you in addition to having the parts. The jackshaft assembly just needs 3/16" plate for the structure and 1 3/8" pipe to house the jackshaft /bearings. There are also other ways of doing this, and other members may take the time to explain it in a simple way with pillow blocks, but you may run into a problem when it comes time to tighten your chain AND keep the center to center distance correct.
Overwhelmed yet? I wish i was at home so I could take a picture of what it looks like. No matter what, you will need to put in a lot of effort and money to make the engine work on the kart as it sits. You are looking at spending an additional $300-$500 to get it where it "should" be with a 40 series set up
A $100 6-7 hp predator engine and a $120 30 series knock off torque converter that just bolts onto the actual engine is probably the least expensive and most beneficial thing you could do for a go kart with decent power. I have upgraded two karts to GX390's with 40 series torque converters from 30 series 6.5 hp engines and love the extra power. I am doing it on a third now. Its really fun to drive.
40 series driven and drive unit (can get on ebay for $180 knock off or for $300+ genuine comet)
jackshaft assembly.... anyone help? (good luck finding one, I had to make mine, or modify an existing one from another kart as the block/bolt pattern is larger) The jackshaft assembly is basically an additional motor mount (see picture) that mounts to the frame on the bottom part, and the motor on the top part. It also provides the "center to center" distance that you need to know before you buy a belt.
The belt you will need to get once you find out what the center to center distance (distance between jackshaft and motor shaft) AND the driven unit diameter (typically 7 1/2") http://www.gokartsupply.com/beltchart.htm
The jack shaft assembly also needs:
two bearings, which are usually 1 3/8 OD, 5/8" ID flanged high speed sealed.
5/8" OD solid rod, threaded on both ends with 3/16th inch keyway.
5/8" Id sprocket, w 3/16th inch keyway. Sprocket will typically be 9 tooth for most applications 40/41 pitch (you will also need to check your axle sprocket size to make sure its not #35 pitch or you could be in trouble with such a large engine)
3/16th" key for jackshaft sprocket and driven unit to be fixed to the 5/8" rod.
two 5/8 NPT nylock hex nuts to fit on each end of the jackshaft and tighten it all together.
It is also good to get a 5/8" ID PIPE (not tube) and cut it to fit over the jackshaft between the two bearings in the jackshaft assembly. This will prevent uneven wear/bearing failure when you tighten the whole thing up with the two nylock 5/8" nuts.
You may need to find someone to fabricate the jackshaft assembly for you in addition to having the parts. The jackshaft assembly just needs 3/16" plate for the structure and 1 3/8" pipe to house the jackshaft /bearings. There are also other ways of doing this, and other members may take the time to explain it in a simple way with pillow blocks, but you may run into a problem when it comes time to tighten your chain AND keep the center to center distance correct.
Overwhelmed yet? I wish i was at home so I could take a picture of what it looks like. No matter what, you will need to put in a lot of effort and money to make the engine work on the kart as it sits. You are looking at spending an additional $300-$500 to get it where it "should" be with a 40 series set up
A $100 6-7 hp predator engine and a $120 30 series knock off torque converter that just bolts onto the actual engine is probably the least expensive and most beneficial thing you could do for a go kart with decent power. I have upgraded two karts to GX390's with 40 series torque converters from 30 series 6.5 hp engines and love the extra power. I am doing it on a third now. Its really fun to drive.
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michael phelps
New member
Would This Work For The Jack Shaft ? http://www.bmikarts.com/Clutch-Mount-with-Jackshaft-_p_1129.html
rocketkart
Active member
i don't see why not.anyone els see why not?
KartFab
Active member
This is exactly what you would use as a jackshaft for a 30 series torque converter and smaller block engine (5.5-7 hp engines). You can also buy the type of plates that just bolt onto the engine itself, but only for 30 series torque converters.
The bolt pattern for the larger block engines will not fit on this thing (e.g. your engine block is so large that it will not fit on the smaller size plate).
Call up american sportworks. They made a few go karts that sported 11 hp engines that had 40 series torque converters with jackshafts.
http://www.amsportworks.com/manuals_8XXX-9XXX.php
(800)643-7332
If that doesnt work, you could buy that yerf dog jackshaft setup because it has almost everything you need, then buy some steel plate and have someone weld a bigger plate onto the motor mount and drill holes in it to match the larger bolt pattern. You would also probably need to have a larger motor mount plate mounted directly onto the go kart to accomodate the larger size jackshaft plate. Like i said before, this is going to require some serious effort to get it done. You cant just buy something that will "bolt on" to what you have now. This is going to involve some sort of modification/fabrication.
michael phelps
New member
So Like Somthing like this and weld it on to the jack shaft ?http://www.ebay.com/itm/151147879026?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
KartFab
Active member
Yes that would technically work
Also, as a word of caution, figure out what you want the center to center distance to be as well as line up the drive and driven units BEFORE you do any cutting.
Another option would be to just buy a pillow block jack shaft "kit" and some 11 gage rectangular tubing. You would need to measure your block to see what size of rectangular tubing you need to get, then drill all the holes yourself. You would basically be doing the same thing that has been done on this at BMI karts, but it would be larger tubing and larger motor mount holes (7/16" bolts are needed to mount the motor) http://www.bmikarts.com/Motor-Mount-Plate-_p_1052.html
Contact a steel distributer to see how much they would charge. Steel is cheap, again this is just another option out there, not telling you to do it one way or another way. The steel tubing option just requires holes to be drilled, and no welding.
Also, as a word of caution, figure out what you want the center to center distance to be as well as line up the drive and driven units BEFORE you do any cutting.
Another option would be to just buy a pillow block jack shaft "kit" and some 11 gage rectangular tubing. You would need to measure your block to see what size of rectangular tubing you need to get, then drill all the holes yourself. You would basically be doing the same thing that has been done on this at BMI karts, but it would be larger tubing and larger motor mount holes (7/16" bolts are needed to mount the motor) http://www.bmikarts.com/Motor-Mount-Plate-_p_1052.html
Contact a steel distributer to see how much they would charge. Steel is cheap, again this is just another option out there, not telling you to do it one way or another way. The steel tubing option just requires holes to be drilled, and no welding.
Have a look at the jackshaft that mckutzy made for his mini chopper. You can do the same thing for your kart instead of buying something.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461
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