Got me a kart!!!

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Filipe

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Okay, so I've started (barely) taking apart the kart... Had a huge problem with one of the screws on the butt part of seat. I guess its one that once it is placed, its not meant to come out. Anyone know what kind of screw it is, or the name? When I took it out, it got damaged beyond recognition. When my pops was helping me out, he kind of bent the flat bar that goes across, but nothing I can do about it now. Glad I took it off, it needs to be repainted.

Next in line, is what is the plastic piece that is on the rail of the throttle pedal? I'm thinking its for the casing for the throttle cable, but not sure.

I also took a pic of where some welding took place. It looks like one of the previous owners cracked the front end and tried to re-weld some cast iron in there. Did a crappy job, but nothing (I think) I can do about it now. Am I wrong?

Lastly, if I did this correctly, there's a video in the post. My front left tire spins crooked, is there anything that can fix/improve this?

First real post about questions, I hope you guys can be as helpful as you have been so far! THANKS.
 

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Filipe

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I can't get videos on here apparently. But I think you all get my problem. Here are more pics:
 

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qtband

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If you're talking about the bolt that attaches to the seat bottom, those are usually standard thread 1/4 inch, or so, bolts. on the other side of the wood, inside the seat, is a "T" nut. If it is still in place, take your seat to the hardware store and you'll find a bolt for it.

The plastic piece is the same as a zip tie. Use it to secure the throttle cable.

The tire alignment can be adjusted by screwing in, or out, the tie rod ends. You want to have a little bit of "toe-in" on the front. This means that when you stand in the front of the kart, the front of the tires are in a little bit, not actually straight. This helps the steering a lot.
 

OzFab

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I also took a pic of where some welding took place. It looks like one of the previous owners cracked the front end and tried to re-weld some cast iron in there. Did a crappy job, but nothing (I think) I can do about it now. Am I wrong?

Yeah, it looks rough but you're probably better off with it there, it will act like a brushguard underneath.
 

Filipe

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If you're talking about the bolt that attaches to the seat bottom, those are usually standard thread 1/4 inch, or so, bolts. on the other side of the wood, inside the seat, is a "T" nut. If it is still in place, take your seat to the hardware store and you'll find a bolt for it.

The tire alignment can be adjusted by screwing in, or out, the tie rod ends. You want to have a little bit of "toe-in" on the front. This means that when you stand in the front of the kart, the front of the tires are in a little bit, not actually straight. This helps the steering a lot.

Nope, "T" nut got pulled out, as I kept unscrewing to no avail. :oops: Any suggestions on what to do?

Zip tie? Makes sense.

Uhh, i'm not sure it's "tire alignment" per se. This is my problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQUCdLh8rd8 but on my go kart...

But yes! Anything to help the steering is greatly appreciated. The front tires aren't bald, but aren't brand new either, and I notice they just slide, as opposed to helping the kart turn, especially when I try to make a tight turn. THANKS!
 

Filipe

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Yeah, it looks rough but you're probably better off with it there, it will act like a brushguard underneath.

Yea, having seen that after I bought it, I think I'm going to try to make this a "flip". I paid $200... if I clean it up real nice, hopefully I can come out even or at a slight profit. Then again, it's my first kart, and only kart. We'll see.
 

Filipe

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Nope, "T" nut got pulled out, as I kept unscrewing to no avail. :oops: Any suggestions on what to do?

Zip tie? Makes sense.

Uhh, i'm not sure it's "tire alignment" per se. This is my problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQUCdLh8rd8 but on my go kart...

But yes! Anything to help the steering is greatly appreciated. The front tires aren't bald, but aren't brand new either, and I notice they just slide, as opposed to helping the kart turn, especially when I try to make a tight turn. THANKS!

any suggestions?
 

Mcbreja

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Take the tire off (1" nut to save you a little time) and make sure the bearings are seated correctly. That's about all I have.
 

Mcbreja

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What kind of shape is that plywood in? You might just try and find a larger t nut and bolt to set in there if it's still good.
 

qtband

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You could get a piece of plywood, match the size of your seat, drill a hole in it and attach the t-nuts, then glue and screw it to the original plywood.
 

Filipe

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qtband, that's probably what I'm going to end up doing. I'm trying to do this right the first time, and I don't think the wood is good enough as is.

I kept cleaning and learning today, and I have a questions about this piece that connects the two brake cables together. I have no idea what it is, but it sure as heck isn't metal. Does anyone know what it is, or if it was just a home remedy?


Next question: What's the proper way to disassemble the part of the TC that isn't hooked up directly to the jackshaft? When I try to wrench it off, it just wants to turn the axle and compress the spring. I am talking about the pulley that is hooked up to the "driven" side (I think this is the correct way of phrasing it.)

Lastly, I've managed to get off all but one bolt/nut on the roll cage. I plan to take it off for sanding and painting. The last one simply won't budge. I let it sit for 24 hours with WD-40 and today before coming in, I decided to try a different product. I have a feeling that its rusted on though, so not much hope that it will free up. Any suggestions? I'd like to replace the old and rusty with new ones.

Here are some more pics of the process and cleaning/degreasing of everything. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Mcbreja

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For the rusty bolt, you might try PB Blaster. It's kind of like WD-40 but, in my opinion, works a lot better. Or, since you're planning to replace the bolts anyway, just cut it off.

For the driven, what I did was use a crescent wrench tightened on the nut and wedged up against the brake caliper bracket. I used a ratchet (15/16 socket) on the other end to turn the shaft and loosen the nut.

I hope that helps. I'll try to explain better if you need me to.
 

Filipe

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Thanks Mcbreja. I'll give it a shot of PB Blaster.

Is there anything I need to worry about when taking the driven pulley off as far as gearing it later on?

Also, as you saw, I took all of the gunk out of the driver pulley drum. Would it hurt to clean the drum with the springs as well? Thanks.
 

Mcbreja

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Just make sure not to lose your key stocks, but you probably already figured that out with the driver pulley. And it should be fine to clean the driven drum with the spring as well. What are you using to clean them?

Forgot to mention, that brake rod should be one solid piece, I have no idea what the he// that thing is, I think I'd be looking for a replacement.

Edit- Better yet, see if you can take that off and figure out why it's on there to begin with.
 

Filipe

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Key stocks? What are those? I've been using WD-40 and a cloth to wipe it off.

CRAP. That's what I didn't want to hear. I'll give it some attention and report back. Thanks dude.
 

Filipe

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Is the key stock the big black square in the pictures above?

Yes! Great link. I also found a really good video on youtube.
 

Filipe

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So I read that thread and at the bottom it said "you might not want to be so hasty to disassemble this clutch given it is spring loaded and must be wound back into place correctly or it will not operate at peak efficiency. This is not for beginners.". That's when I knew the line was drawn. I'll stay off the driven pulley for now.
 
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