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rubble

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Ok, I have been looking around on this website for about a week or so, and I still cant figure out jack. I have loads of questions. But step one is repainting. I read the difference between acetone ( i think) and the rustblast( again I think). whtas the best way to remove rust??? I did some research on the web and read that if th erust is too bad you may have to replace metal. Does this mean Ill have to just start over with a new frame?

Ill post some pics tonight when i get off work.

P.S. Thanks for any help anyone gives me.
 

DudeRadster

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if it's something small like a chain, you can soak it in vinegar to get rid of most of the rust. This usually frees up stuck things too. If you can't get it unstuck, then try PB Blaster. It can be expensive (especially in California) but it's the best. Even just a rusty frame, you can paint vinegar onto the rust spots to get rid of the majority of it. Then sand down the rest. I also recommend painting it over with Rust-Lock to keep it from rusting any more, and then painting with actual paint over that. This is what I've been doing with bicycles for years. It seems like whenever my friends break their bikes or leave them out in the rain, I always get to fix them. Also works with old cars that are starting to rust out. If you can catch them before holes start to appear in the frame, then they're salvageable.
 

Doc Sprocket

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I have never heard of acetone doing anything for rust. Its a solvent- good for pre-paint prep, cleaning, reducing paint for spraying, and removing nail polish.

Regarding replacing metal- if it has holes or has been severely weakened by rust, cut out and replace the bad member. No need for a new frame unless the whole thing is swiss cheese.
 

rubble

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toy story:
sorry i got my info mixed up. your right acetone is for pre painting. Like i said im new to all this. But thanks for the correction and guidance.
 

rubble

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rubble

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its blurry, but one of the shots of rust spots.
question? how do i post several pics at once?
 

j.concepcion54321

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There's a thread somewhere about posting the pictures. Would one of you be so kind as to post it? I cnt cause I'm on my phone...

About the rust. Get an angle grinder and a wire wheel. It'll get it right off and leave you with bare paint. No need for any rust solutions. With the grinder you'll get it off either way the solvent will just make it easier to get off.
 

rubble

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to all: thanks for the tips on how to remove rust and paint. Ill be getting on that this coming weekend.

What determines what kind of motor you have? I am looking to have a motor that will start with a push of a button or turn of a key. The motor that was on there had a pull string like a mower. Does the type of motor you have change or complicate the setup of other key elements? Thanks again for all the help thus far.
 

landuse

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The method of starting your motor (pull, or electric) doesn't determine what type of sprockets chain etc you will need. What is a factor will be the HP, the shaft diameter, etc.

I am not too sure if I have answered you here. If not, maybe word your question a little differently
 

rubble

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toystory:
do you have a website for the engine you mentioned?

landuse: I was trying to ask if there was a major difference in rather you have a pull start engine or different.

I did look up Honda engines and I am rather curious if you buy a enigine with a pull cord, if the cord can be removed? I havent found many go karts online with a pull cord on the engine. Which leads me to think that you buy a engine with a cord and alter the engine to your needs/wants. Am i trackign with this or am i way off base?
 

Doc Sprocket

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toystory:
do you have a website for the engine you mentioned?
No, just look for any 5-9hp (in general) horizontal shaft engine with electric start. Same footprint and mountings as a pull-only, but features a starter. Many brands/types available. Search "Honda", "Clone", "Briggs and Stratton", "Tecumseh", "Subaru", "Lifan" to name a few.

landuse: I was trying to ask if there was a major difference in rather you have a pull start engine or different.

If I may- A well-tuned and properly maintained pull-start engine is a dream to start. As far as I am concerned, the only benefit to electric start is the fact that you end up with a charging coil on the engine and a battery, which lends itself well to running lights and other 12v accessories.

I did look up Honda engines and I am rather curious if you buy a enigine with a pull cord, if the cord can be removed? I havent found many go karts online with a pull cord on the engine. Which leads me to think that you buy a engine with a cord and alter the engine to your needs/wants. Am i trackign with this or am i way off base?

You can remove the recoil assembly, but why would you? Even with an electric start engine, you want the backup. With VERY few exceptions, all small industrial engines come with a recoil, even when they are electric start. Sometimes race-prepped engines don't come with a recoil- but then- they don't tend to come with electric start either. Those engines come with a special hub adapter that allows the use of a portable race starter.
 

rubble

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ok so i started grinding the paint and rust off and i have found under the rusted spots this black discoloration. it this more rust or what? do i need to grind this down to shiny metal or is this just discoloration that will not hurt the repainting process?

also, what does a good weld look like? i have read on this forum that "a good weld" is very important. does it look a certain way?

should the weld go all the way around the front? on the front bummer you can see that the weld stops and there is an unwleded area. is this safe or should the pipe and straight metal be welded together at all points?

thanks
 
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Doc Sprocket

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The "stitch-welds" (sections, instead of one long, complete weld bead) are fine. The discoloration is nothing to be concerned about either.

The 'net is loaded with examples of good welds. In fact, we have a fairly recent thread (in the Using Tools And Welding) subcategory that shows some good examples. And yes, you can tell a LOT about a weld based on its appearance.
 

Go51oKart

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Go to homedepot this stuff cost 15 bucks it comes n a gallon and it called phosphric prep and etch this stuff works really even better when spray n sunligth just wire brush any loose rust spray it with phosphric prep and etch and wait I did this on a rust fender I was workn on a few months ago and was really impressed with the result :thumbsup:
 
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