Help, with my welds (MIG)

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nak18

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I just started MIG welding and my welds are getting better, but they are sputter or the bead retracts and forms a blob.

Here are a few pics from sunday:








I read that slowing my wire speed down would stop the sputter, but I tried from 2-7 and still have sputtering. I also got the bacon sound, but the bead retracted in a blob.

I think one weld was strong, but I bang it on the ground to see if the welds were good. It broke ,then I realized the metal was still hot.

Does waiting for the metal to cool then banging it have a better result?
 

r_chez_08

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I am no expert, but try slowing down, and more heat. Those welds are not penetrating and will not hold. I find making little "e" shapes or zigzagging helps to get good penetration without burning through.
 

devino246

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Your moving way too fast, and not getting any penetration. You should be moving an inch every 5-7 seconds. BTW, your not Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding, your using flux-core arc welding (FCAW). What heat setting are you running?
 

nak18

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I am no expert, but try slowing down, and more heat. Those welds are not penetrating and will not hold. I find making little "e" shapes or zigzagging helps to get good penetration without burning through.

The other one I tried first was worst. I threw it towards the ground 5 times and it broke.

Your moving way too fast, and not getting any penetration. You should be moving an inch every 5-7 seconds. BTW, your not Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding, your using flux-core arc welding (FCAW). What heat setting are you running?

What's a good wire speed to use when moving slowly?

Thank you for correcting me on the MIG-FCAW.

My settings for the one in this picture are Max-1

My lowest is Min-1(60amp) and MAX-2 (120amp). I plan on using 1/16in metal, but all I get at the time was 1/8".

Does welding outside affect penetration? I was welding around 6:30pm-7pm(65F)
 

kendelrk

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i was taught at a local school with mig gas, make sure to test scrap metal to get the right setting, and then make circles going clockwise slowley, or one of the guys like to heat everything really hot so the wire would make just a liquid pool, then once he was done he would quickly dip it in water to cool it off, those welds havent broke yet,
 

devino246

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i was taught at a local school with mig gas, make sure to test scrap metal to get the right setting, and then make circles going clockwise slowley, or one of the guys like to heat everything really hot so the wire would make just a liquid pool, then once he was done he would quickly dip it in water to cool it off, those welds havent broke yet,

I dont recommend quenching fresh welds in water, could cause them to become brittle. Why clockwise circles? I dont foresee counterclockwise circles creating a problem. Preheating is generally only used/needed on thicker work pieces.
 

kendelrk

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i dont see anything wrong with counterclockwise circles. but when i was there they said its easier to go clockwise because you get the perfect forward speed
 

nak18

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i was taught at a local school with mig gas, make sure to test scrap metal to get the right setting, and then make circles going clockwise slowley, or one of the guys like to heat everything really hot so the wire would make just a liquid pool, then once he was done he would quickly dip it in water to cool it off, those welds havent broke yet,
Cool, I'll also try to heat the metal up a little.

I dont recommend quenching fresh welds in water, could cause them to become brittle. Why clockwise circles? I dont foresee counterclockwise circles creating a problem. Preheating is generally only used/needed on thicker work pieces.

I think CW is easier for right hand and CCW easier for left hand. Just my Opinion, from what I've seen from artist and other.

1/8 I'm going to preheat just t o get the metal up to about 120F then weld.
 

fowler

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i agree

if u are going left to right but if u are going right to left then the reverse is true

heat treating is only needed for super high tensile steel (rail road track, shovel buckets)
and is is used before and after the the weld to heat the material up and to slowly let it
cool

u should never dunk a weld in a bucket of water if u can avoid it,
the weld will cool faster and can lead it to crack
or it will warp the peice u have just welded.

as devino said
slow down alot and turn the amps up.
also the circles need to be right on top of each other, only move forward 1mm with each circle.
try just laying a bead on a flat peice of metal, once that is down pat then try joining stuff together.

lastly welding out side has npo affect on the weld if u are stick or flux core welding

mig welds will be affected by wind though

oh, unless it is hammering down with rain
then your welds will be affected for sure
 

r97

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If your welder actually reaches 120A, your using 0.030 or 0.035 flux core wire, your metal is prepared correctly, and settings are correct then there is no need to preheat. I used my Lincoln welder with 0.035 flux core wire at 88A on 1/8" flat bar, weld fused perfectly.

Really, I have never paid attention to whether or not I make CW or CCW circles, although I doubt it matters. Sometimes you feel like going one way, sometimes the other. One for sure though is that I would not depend on the direction of the circles to set travel speed, what if your not even using the circle technique?

:iagree: with Devino, dunking welds in water right after welding sounds like a disaster just waiting to happen. You touch a hot weld once and waiting a few minutes doesn't bother you anymore.

NAK18,

This website should be very helpful,

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/index.html

Does your machine not come with a chart for recommended settings?
 

devino246

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Cool, I'll also try to heat the metal up a little.



I think CW is easier for right hand and CCW easier for left hand. Just my Opinion, from what I've seen from artist and other.

1/8 I'm going to preheat just t o get the metal up to about 120F then weld.

Like I said, no need to preheat. The entire work piece will be 120F within a few seconds of welding.


I think it would be wise to mention, what is your wire stick out?

Good point. Should be 3/8 of an inch of wire between the tip and the work piece.
 

nak18

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i agree
move forward 1mm with each circle.

then your welds will be affected for sure
I'll take not of this.

If your welder actually reaches 120A, your using 0.030 or 0.035 flux core wire, your metal is prepared correctly, and settings are correct I used my Lincoln welder with 0.035 flux core wire at 88A on 1/8" flat bar, weld fused perfectly.

You touch a hot weld once and waiting a few minutes doesn't bother you anymore.

NAK18,

This website should be very helpful,

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/index.html

Does your machine not come with a chart for recommended settings?

Touch the metal while trying to lay a few beads, and boy was it hot.
Haha, I waited 4 days to take this picture.

No chart included.

I think it would be wise to mention, what is your wire stick out?
Everything from 1/2" - nozzle.

Like I said, no need to preheat. The entire work piece will be 120F within a few seconds of welding.




Good point. Should be 3/8 of an inch of wire between the tip and the work piece.
ok

are you cleaning up your metal before welding?

Hot water + soap -> cold water rinse -> towel dry
 

devino246

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are you cleaning up your metal before welding?

Only thing on that metal is mill scale and that doesnt really need to be ground off.

Everything from 1/2" - nozzle.

Hot water + soap -> cold water rinse -> towel dry

Keep your wire stickout consistent.

What is it, a baby? A once-over with an abrasive material (angle grinder, wire wheel, wire brush) is good enough.

invest in an angle grinder, and wire wheel from HF it should come to around 20-30 bucks

x2. Absolute necessity for welding.
 

kendelrk

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i used to think what is this good for? ill never use one in my life, i was stripping paint with sand paper and a little one for my drill, took a long time, i got an angle grinder and wire wheel, that paint was gone fast,and the metal looked brand new, and if you buy one, not only is it good for removing paint/cleaning metal, it comes with a grinding disk to grind down your welds
 

machinist@large

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Only thing on that metal is mill scale and that doesnt really need to be ground off.


Sorry D, mill scale is a high temp. oxide and a very good electrical insulator; it's not perfect ( you'd know to grind every time, period, if it was), but it's good enough to really mess up the work at hand when you least expect it. When in doubt, grind. A wire wheel can touch mill scale, but most of the time you end up just polishing it up. Save your wheel for where it will give you the best bang for the buck; cleaning up the weld zone when you're done (why make that part of the job any harder than you have to? Let the power tools do the grunting for you!!). Otherwise, you're on the right track.

One thing I can't stress enough; sign up for a class!! In most cases, in a night school/ community ed. course, you'll burn through about as much in consumables ( metal, wire/rod, gas & electricity, grinding wheels, etc.) as you paid for the class. Basically, you're paying for the matl. and getting the instruction/ class time FOR FREE!!!! I don't care what type of welder you have, this will save you a lot of time, grief, and money in the long run.

Time for me to get off the soap box; let's see what Toy Story has to add when he chimes in.:cheers2:
 

devino246

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Sorry D, mill scale is a high temp. oxide and a very good electrical insulator; it's not perfect ( you'd know to grind every time, period, if it was), but it's good enough to really mess up the work at hand when you least expect it. When in doubt, grind.

Time for me to get off the soap box; let's see what Toy Story has to add when he chimes in.:cheers2:

Like I said "doesnt really need to be". Not a bad idea to get it off, but it shouldnt severely affect the weld, and certainly wont cause his current results.
 
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